Replaced the fan motor on my 1992 Oldmobile Cutlass Supreme and it has a roaring noise, what is the problem

SOURCE: 1995 cutlass supreme transmission

It physically will fit and bolt up,but there are many different ratio,and drive and driven sprocket tooth counts,different final drive ratios,all monitored by the computer with electronic speed sensors.If the trans from the 95 has a different ratio than the 93,the computer will set gear ratio error codes,and possibly put the trans in a failsafe mode,stuck in 2nd or 3rd gear.On the transmission case,down by where the passenger side axle would go in,is a thin metallic tag,maybe 2"x 3",and it has bar codes,and also a series of numbers and letters.The numbers and letters,large cap,are the final drive gear ratio code.They should match on the two transmissions in question.

SOURCE: 1997 oldsmobile cutlass supreme knocking noise & problems acceler

That could be only two things one a bad pistion or a bad rod. I would take the engine apart and find one or both maybe broken or in bad repair fixing. I would not drive it far it will throw the pistion or rod right through the engine costing ya more money or a new car.

SOURCE: Cutlass Supreme Door Wont Open From Outside

It could either be the linkage inside the door popped off, or the outside handle is broke on the inside of the door. this is common with this car and is very fixable.

Harvey N Tawatao

• 3854 Answers
• Posted on May 02, 2009

SOURCE: how hard is it to replace a intake gasket on a 1994 olds cutlass supreme.3.1 6 cyclinder

It is not an extremely difficult job. time consuming consuming... I've done a 3.4 intake manifold job, which in my opinion (plenty will disagree) is a little easier than a 3.1 manifold. there are just more steps involved with the 3.1 intake.(I haven't had to change the intake gasket on my 3.1 (yet)) If you haven't already, invest in a haynes or chilton manual, whip out your sockets and your gasket remover, and prepare to do battle...
oh, as far as how to tell before you break down the engine... are you having any drive ability problems? Surging idle, stalling... try this, take propane torch (DONT LIGHT IT) but open the valve and let the spray the propane around your intake manifold with the engine running. If the idle drops or the car stalls, there is your intake leak. That trick also works with intake cleaner too.

you may have to remove your push rods to put your new gasket on. Just loosen the rocker arm nuts/bolts and pivot your rocker arms out of the way. If you do remove your push rods, push them into some holes in a cardboard box so that you can replace them EXACTLY in the same position that you got them from. To remove old traces of gasket, you may have to get some spray on gasket remover, let it sit 5 min. then get at it with your scraper. (be careful, remember our engines are aluminum, you don't want to scrape too hard and scar the mating surface).  
After you get all the old gasket off, clean the mating surface with intake cleaner or lacquer thinner. your gasket kit may have come with end seals. if it did not, remember to run a line of RTV sealant on the front and rear ridges of the engine block between the heads (before you install the intake gasket.)

When you re-install your lower manifold, coat your bolts with pipe thread sealant. when you install the lower manifold, tighten the vertical bolts first, then the angle bolts- it will keep the manifold from wiggling around on the gasket.

After you get everything back together and all snug, i would buy some GM top engine cleaner (liquid)(dealer only( part# 1050002) or some sea foam from your local parts retailer. I know this is to clean the carbon and sludge from your intake and your cylinders, but guess where the remainder of the solution ends up? Yep, in your oil. That should clean up any residue you had from the milkshake effect.

To use the GM engine cleaner, just disconnect your favorite vacuum hose leading to the intake (some people just use their brake booster hose) and put it down in the bottle of liquid while the car is running. (don't let the vacuum **** the liquid too fast, you don't want to risk problems. you may have to keep your hand on the throttle to keep it running. when the can is empty, let your car stall or just cut it off. 

Let your car sit about 2 hours, to give the cleaner time to really work. Start your car, let it run for about 20 mins (there will be PLENTY of white smoke, your car is burning off the cleaner and the carbon).

Then change your oil. good luck and hope this helps.

Ok, you're going to need to buy, borrow, or rent a torque wrench. For 3.1 engines 1995 and earlier, rocker arm nuts should be torqued to 18 ft-lbs.

The wire brush probably did less damage than I do on a regular basis with a gasket scraper :D so you should be okay. If you've already drained your oil, (which I suspect you have) then I would just use the wal-mart brand while you do the GM engine cleaner thing. 
  Don't add the cleaner to your oil, just let a vacuum hose, **** it into the intake. Plenty will get in your oil. Getting into your oil and cleaning up the gook is just a fringe benefit. What the cleaner actually does is it cleans up your entire intake path (manifold, injectors, & valves)... I think you'll be happy with the throtle crispness, once you're done with the engine cleaner. 
Oh and for your coolant system, just get some Prestone radiator flush, and follow what the bottle says. If your system is really gooped up, Prestone also has a Super flush for a little extra :2cents:

SOURCE: I need to replace turn signal switch on 97 olds cutlass supreme.

Disconnect the battery to do any service on the steering column or front radiator areas.