2002 Chrysler Sebring Logo
mike goines Posted on Jun 22, 2012
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2004 chrysler sebring 2.4l dohc.

Replaced camshaft sensor, crank shaft sensor and magnet behind camshaft sensor and the check engine light came back on and car jerks when i accelerate. the darn light still comes back on and reads cam shaft sensor/ crank shaft sensor. no engine work has been done. 149k miles any suggestions.

1 Answer

Marvin

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  • Chrysler Master 85,242 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 22, 2012
Marvin
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Joined: Jun 20, 2008
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Have you ever replaced the timing belt?? If not the problem is likely to be a loose worn out timing belt. A floppy belt will play havoc with the sensor signals and trigger a check engine light and a camshaft sensor code.

  • Anonymous Oct 30, 2012

    I have the exact problem with my 300m. My cam/crank/wires/timing belt/harmonic balancer have been replaced over the last 1.5 years. The problem has not gone away.

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 4669 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 07, 2009

SOURCE: Crank sensor and camshaft sensor

The crank sensor is in the top of bell housing of the transmission towards the back of the engine compartment. The cam sensor is built into the distributor.

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Anonymous

  • 1201 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 13, 2009

SOURCE: 2004 Chrysler Sebring problems

That dealer is ripping you off. Ask around to find a good repair shop.
Just for the heck of it, I called an auto parts store, and the cost of the timing belt is around $36.00 and the sensor is about $100.00.
Different shops charge different labor rates. But it shouldn't cost anywhere near that dealer. Good luck.

Anonymous

  • 5158 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 16, 2009

SOURCE: Car hesitation

sounds like the coil pack is failing or you could just have water in your fuel.... buy a couple bottles of gas line antifreeze (it sucks up water) and add them to your tank when you fill up.... if that doesn't fix it it is likely the coil pack

Molson02536

Harvey N Tawatao

  • 3854 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 23, 2009

SOURCE: camshaft position sensor

This V-6 has a very hard to find/hard to reach CKP - it is directly under the Distributor, about 4 inches below, inwards toward the Transaxle "bell". Almost dead-center in the back of the engine.
Your going to have to take the Air Filter and the air manifold that runs to the engine off. After that, take off the horn assembly to gain very, very limited access to wedge an extended ratchet into the bowels of the engine. 
I think the same socket that undid the horn assembly fit the CKP nut. It takes 10 minutes to undo the bolt a couple ratchet clicks at a time, at least 15 to get the thing to wiggle out, probably 15 minutes to unconnect, reconnect, and snap back to the fram the wire harness, and at least another 10 minutes to ratchet the bolt back in click by click.

Now you know why they say shops charge $500 in to do this - I think they must take the entire engine out... Very painstaking job that requires patience and precision... but quite satisfying to finish it yourself. 

Good luck and hope this helps, 

Anonymous

  • 94 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 09, 2011

SOURCE: Crank shaft bolt torque specs for 2001 chrysler

lcorgiat_49.jpgthe dampner is the crank bolt

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The crank sensor is in the top of bell housing of the transmission towards the back of the engine compartment. The cam sensor is built into the distributor.
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