I believe your over charging ie; voltage regulator bad. should only have between 12-14.5 volts max when testing at bat with volt meter
i thought you had new battery. charge bat. w/a decent prof. grade charger.
load test bat. if it's ok
install and start vehicle & check voltage at battery w/meter you should have 12-14.5 volts at bat. terminals.
turn on lights, blower, wipers,defroster, etc. check voltage at bat. terminals(rev engine slightly while doing this test)
voltage should be above 12 volts.
if its not alt. is bad or voltage regulator is bad (voltage reg. is in the alt.)
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Depending on the make and model , you need to have the car reprogrammed
The car needs to know it has a new battery otherwise it thinks the old battery is still in there. This is true on all late model German cars and many domestic. Take it to the a good tech with the software and systems to reprogram.
Well I think it is worth putting a different battery in not even new and test the alternator under load and at different speeds.If the alternator maxes out and controls the voltage this is puzzling?
I’d have the battery and alternator tested. May have been new but I’ve seen defective new parts sometimes.
From my research it sounds like it could be 3 different things 1 being that the cars over charging the voltage regulator 2 being the alternator and 3 being the coil or a gauge something? correct me if im wrong but i do believe you can test the alterntor by first eliminating that its not the battery meaning its fully charged etc once the battery is connected start the car and while its running you pull the negative cable off resulting in the car stays running meaning alternator is good or that it dyes meaning alternator no good cant you turn your key on off repeating a ertain number of times and then when turn key on counting the number of dings inwhich the number of dings equals number that allows you to look up error code and discription the engine error code would be verification so what kind of test can be done to test the coil or voltage regulartor
SOURCE: my 2004 Volvo S40 Drivers Side Door will not open
the handle might of broke internally, theres a rod and a clip that gets attached to the handle. i would take the door panel off and visual look at the latch mechanism and the rod that goes from that to the outside handle
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The battery not charging problem has been solved.
The mechanic found corrosion on one of the cable connections at the alternator.
What surprises me is that the mechanic didn't notice the corrosion when he installed the replacement alternator.
Here's what it cost me:
Rebuilt alternator: $160
Labour to install alternator: $130
Labour to trouble shoot charging problem and find corrosion on cable $50
Total $340
If you read the original post about the charging problem you will probably come to the same conclusion that I did. I did not really need the rebuilt alternator. Why was it installed? Well, everyone I got advice from including a dealer, a mechanic, an alternator rebuilder, on-line forums, and my own experience pointed to a bad alternator, so I said go ahead and put it in.
I'm just glad I did not have the dealer do it because they wanted about $800.
I cannot fault the mechanic who did the work and his prices were very fair.
By the way this all took place in Toronto, Ontario so the prices above are in Canadian dollars.
I would recommend the mechanic:
Dundas Auto Repair
1201 Dundas St. E.
Toronto, ON M4M 1S2
416-778-0255
I got the rebuilt alternator from:
MH Auto Electric
10 Canvarco Rd., Unit 53D
Toronto, ON M4G 1L3
416-424-2549
how can you not fault the mechanic? he should have inspected the wires and cleaned them with a wire brush or equivilant. unacceptable to me. glad it is workin'. my mpv has similiar issue but no corrosion. think it is the pcm:(
how can you not fault the mechanic? he should have inspected the wires and cleaned them with a wire brush or equivilant. unacceptable to me. glad it is workin'. my mpv has similiar issue but no corrosion. think it is the pcm:(
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