After I shut the car off, I hear a humming noise coming from the back area of the car. If we pull out the fuel pump fuse, the humming stops & the battery doesn't end up dead after standing for 5 hours or more. When we put the fuse back in the humming noise isn't always there before we start the car. Some say the fuel pump is bad & others say it's the relay. We recently got hit by a deer in the front left panel near headlight & the problem didn't start til after the accident. Same side was also hit a cement barrier in a snow storm about 2 years ago. Thought maybe it had something to do with the fuse box being right there.
Fuel pump won't be the cause. Most likely the relay.
SOURCE: 1988 rx7 turbo starts and runs for 3-5 seconds and dies...
I would check the all relays. I would check the vehicles main computer. Sound to me the engine ignitoin system was completely replaced.
The altenator should be putting out correct voltage? The battery must be holding the charge because you are able to re start the car.
I think a relay , altenator or computer is getting to hot internally and shutting down.
Good luck,
SOURCE: Grinding noise in front end
Hi
Had the exact same problem, on a used 2003 Protege ES with 82,000 miles that I purchased.
Started with the loud "road noise" I thought well maybe thats just the sound that it makes.
And then noticed that it varies when turning.
This will continue to get worse and then your abs light will come on when it gets bad enough to trigger the sensor..
It turned out to be a bad wheel bearing.
Take it to a shop and have an experienced mechanic check it out. Its repairable.
SOURCE: electrical issues (2 or 3) with Mazda Tribute 2002
hello there, there is a way to check if the alternator works, just start the engine and run it at idle for a minute or so just to get the engine warmed up. while the engine is running, try to remove the positive terminal cable from the battery (note: no lights, radio, or any accessories operating). the alternator should be sufficiently providing power to the engine. if it dies down the charging might be weak. another way is purchase a digital multimeter and setting it to dc voltage testing. put the tester prongs on the correct terminal( positive to red positive and negative to black negative) test the voltage prior to starting. usually it shall read 12. 3 or a tad higher. remove the tester prongs from the battery terminal and start the engine. then place it back on. the reading shall read 14V plus without any load. sometimes it might read 15V w/c is usually over for certain cars. then turn on all accessories: headlights, aircondition/heater and etc. if the reading on the tester indicates 12.8V and above 13V your charging system is ok.(all this test is on engine idle)
For the battery, my experience is that 2 years of battery duty is quite good already. unfortunately, during these span of duty the battery might give a 12V reading but its strength is not enough to sustain the load. the voltage of the battery is the physical attribute so to speak and ampere is the power or strength of the battery.
for your accessories that died, I think something tripped when you jump started it. but the accessories are easily traceble. I think what's important is keeping the engine in tip top condition and won't let you down during hard times.
hope some of this helps you.
SOURCE: The fuel pump is not geting power . and I cant find the relay
It could very well be that your fuel pump went bad. I am more inclined to say that the in tank fuel pump would go before before the relay . But you should find the fuel pmp relay under the hood near the main fuse box, if not in it.
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