What fuse would i have to change so that the radio can work

SOURCE: I have a 2006 Kia

it could be a fuse they are under the dash or in the engine compartment check that first/ you should not be outof warranty

SOURCE: 2005 Sedona dash lights

We have the same problem, and the idiot Kia dealership won't even help us out, other than to tell us it might be expensive. They don't give a damn about their warranty coverage.

SOURCE: parking lights and brake lights won't work

are you putting back the correct amp fuse.

SOURCE: My 2002 Kia Sportage dash light is out, I changed

Check the DRL

"OK my dash and marker lights were out because the DRL module had failed.
I bet this is a fairly common problem so...before you go spending big bucks on a new one or even a few on a used one, why not see if the one you have is salvageable?
The Daytime Running Light module is located with other modules on a plate bolted to the driver's side kick panel. It's the biggest, black one and has DRL Module labeled right on it.
Because this is the module that produces the most heat and therefore is the most likely to fail, the motherless dogs who designed the 2002 Rio put it on the left side of the plate so that you have to move a harness and unbolt the plate to get at it. If you've got big shoulders and arms, getting the plate off is going to hurt. If you're left-handed, you're screwed.
Once you've got the module out and have had your crushed ribs bandaged, which were crushed while laying over the door sill to get under the dash, you pop off the module cover and check the solder side of the circuit board for bad solder joints around the main relay connections (that's the big white block on the board).
They run a fair amount of wattage through the relay, so it gets hot when it's on and cools when it shuts down. Over time this crystallizes the solder and forms a circular crack around the connection that gets bigger until it's essentially no longer connected to the circuit board and all your dash and marker lights go dark.
The motherless dog who designed the circuit could have avoided this by using a relay with a higher wattage rating (which would be bigger, making the module larger, but would run a lot cooler), but then we wouldn't have an expensive, consumable part to have replaced by the dealership would we.
Anyway, check the module for any burned components. If everything else looks OK, re-solder the connections (or have a friend who really knows how to properly solder electronic circuits do it otherwise you'll just finish what inadequate design started), pop the module back together, plug it in, test the lights and if working, reinstall it and the mounting plate - and for the love of God put a thick pillow on the door sill this time to protect your bruised ribs.
Hope this proves helpful. It's actually a real easy fix."

SOURCE: No parking , fog or rear lights working.

REPLACE DRL MODULE