I drove the car and when I was getting ready to turn it off the ignition key will not turn. I had to take the fuse out to turn the car off. The key is till in the car. I can put the fuse back and turn the car back on, but the problem is the key will not turn so I cannot turn the car off or pull the key out.
Try wd40 or some type of penetrating oil rock the wheel left & right while snaking the key it should come out if you get it out have another key made yours is worn out that's why its sticking.
SOURCE: ignition won't turn to start the car
the lock cylinder may have to be replaced, have you tried moving the steering from side to side while trying to turn the key, if you do need to get a new ignition lock cylinder have a lock smith key it to fit your old keys
SOURCE: repalce front driver power window motor - 1993 cutlass ciera
Disconnect the battery negative cable, carefully remove the door panel, make sure you remove all the visible hold down screws holding the arm rest and other things in place, be careful and observant, don't force anything. If you don't have the standard door panel removal tools, use a stiff putty knife or a wide screwdriver to remove the door panel, you will have to get the power window control switch and the lock control rods out of the way, take notes so you know how they go back together, Remove the plastic weather protection shield out of the way, try not to tear it because you will want to replace it using a good contact adhesive. Getting the motor and the lift mechanism out is the biggest challenge, There are two big rivets holding the motor and regulator assembly to the door, there are two more rivets closer to the rear of the door that holds the track and window guide in place. the rivets are difficult to drill out because it's not easy to center punch them. I used my 4 inch grinder to remove the rivet heads, be careful not to injure yourself or grind through the door metal. knock the rivets out. Remove the power supply wire from the motor. Use a 10 MM socket to untighten the two cap screws that hold the lift bracket to the bottom glass channel. Don't take the cap screws all the way out. Use a piece of wire to hold the window in the closed position. Loop the wire over one of the hold down cap screws and fasten the other end through one of the convenient holes near the top of the door. Now comes the good part. the motor and lift mechanism is all in one near rigid piece. The seat belt anchor blocks the door panel opening that would make it relatively easy to remove. Don't give up, the unit will come out with some thoughtful manipulation, the V shaped track guide will tolerate a small amount of flexing, don't overdo it. I finally got the assembly out by moving it as far to the back of the the door cavity as possible, use the angles of the assembly to your advantage to free it from the door. Once free, use a black marker to ensure you align your new motor in the correct postition. If you are replacing a complete assembly that looks the same a the part you removed, install by reversing the above directions. If you are replacing only the motor, drill out the two rivets that hold the motor to the lift assembly. this will be asy to do. fit your new motor in the exact same position, referring to the previous marks you made. If you are reusing the old lift mechanism, you should pull the perforated tape out of the guide, clean, inspect it, the guide and the tape, relubricate it, I used white grease, there is probably a better grease available. The motor assembly I received from an internet supplier came with rivets and machine screws to install the assembly, I used 1/2 quarter twenty nuts and bolts to replace the big rivets, I don't have a big enough rivet gun. If you go the quarter twenty way, use thread lock, install with bolt heads on the inside the door and flat washers and nuts to the car interior. Be observant, I left the plastic bracket that attaches the drive tape to the window bottom in an unsecure place, one of my dogs used it as a chew toy,so it was off to the junkyard one more time. Be sure to secure the tape properly at both ends. If it worn or frayed, several suppliers including rockauto supply them at reasonable cost. good luck.
SOURCE: STARTER - 1993 cutlass ciera
According to Chilton's, and assuming you have the 3300 V-6, it won't be fun. The first instruction is to drain the air conditioning system, and remove the front manifold. The starter is between the engine and the radiator. The deal breaker for me is the A/C draining/refill. If anyone knows of a way to avoid the A/C drain, let me know. Otherwise, I may just preemptively replace mine before my buddy runs low on R-12.
SOURCE: 1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera S 6 Cyl 3300 Speed Problem
Yep...try replacing your coil pack....
SOURCE: 92 Olds Cutlass Ciera ignitian code needed
i dont have it but if you register at www.autozone.com you can get it for free and registering is free and they have all kinds of free help and diagrams for you
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