My 1995 saturn tensioner is making a noise and the washer on the bolt is loose..which way do I turn it ?

The tool is most important and normally it is clockwise. You might need help to hold the belt in tension while it is tightened.

it the belt is loose, the tensioner is bad. Its a pulley that should move and has spring tension on it. its a large pulley about 3" in diameter. replace the belt and tensioner.

Look like this http://www.1aauto.com/1A/Drivetrain/Saturn/SSeries/1AEBT00011/286234?utm_source=google_base&utm_medium=comparisonshopping&utm_campaign=gb_api_br&year=1995&utm_content=EBT








Tensioner cannot be tightened. The tensioner is a automatic spring tensioner with now manual adjustments. if the tensioner is loose, it must be replaced. the instructions are as follows:

Remove the front passanger side tire (19mm lug nuts)
3. In the wheel well, remove the splash shielding to gain access to the motor.
4. Place a decent size peice of wood on your jack, and slide it under the oil pan, raise the jack so it firmly presses on the oil pan.
5. Under the hood, remove the motor mount on the left side of the motor, the mount is held on by Three 15mm nuts with studs on the motor itself, and Two 15mm nuts holding the mount to the body. remove the mount completely.
6. slowly lower the jack supporting the engine untill the engine sits all the way down.
7. from inside the wheel well, place a 14mm wrench on the belt tensioner pully bolt. swing the tensioner to remove tension on the belt, remove the belt from the tensioner or main crank pully.
8. You should have access to the lower bolt on the tensioner. the bolt is 10mm in head size. i recommend using a 1/4" ratchet. Remove the bolt.
9. raise the jack as far as you can, making sure the vehicle stays on the jackstands!!! this should allow you to reach down and beable to remove the top bolt on the tensioner. the motor will come up on an angle.
10. once the bolt is out, the tensioner should just fall out of the motor. reinstall the tensioner with the top bolt first, lower the engine, reinstall lower bolt, reinstall belt, reinstall the upper motor mount, and raise the engine to level out with the upper mount.
The job sounds complicated if you are not mechanically inclined, but its accually simple. you will not break anything by moving the motor. the job should take a average person about 30-45 minuites to complete.
Please visit my bio page for access to my saturn help site. there is a picture of your belt tensioner located in the serpentine belt folder.

There is a 10 bolt on the left which does the adjusting it is behind a "U" shaped alignment washer midway down the stud that you took the nut off (that held the middle of the 3 cover holdowns). This bolt goes through the left alternator 12 nut/stud and you will also have to take out the 14 bolt on the right. Turn the bolt clockwise and it will take the tension off the belt so you can get it off the pulley. To get the alternator back on point the 12 stud at an angle to receive the left side of the alternator while keeping it against the engine removal flange and in the "U". Drop the alternator into position on the right and put the large 14 bolt through. Now put the 12 nut onto the left stud and count how many times you drop the nut. You can tape it to a screwdriver and get it into position where you can get a quarter turn on it. Replace the belt (if new you will need to support the engine and take off the left side mount) and tighten the 10 until the belt has 1/2" play at the middle. Not too tight but not loose enough to move the pulley by hand. Tighten the 12 (left) and 12 (right) and replace the wires and covers. Get bandaids for your wounds.

Fig. 1: Front cover and water pump bolt size and location-3.0L engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain and recycle the engine coolant.
3. Loosen the four water pump pulley retaining bolts while the accessory drive belts are still tight.
4. Rotate the automatic tensioner down and to the left.
5. Remove the accessory drive belt.
6. Remove the two nuts and bolt retaining the drive belt automatic tensioner to the engine, then remove the tensioner.
7. Disconnect and remove the lower radiator and heater hose from the water pump.
8. Remove the eleven water pump-to-engine retaining bolts, then lift the water pump and pulley up and out of the vehicle.
9. Remove the water pump pulley retaining bolts, then remove the pulley from the water pump.
   

To install:
Be careful not to gouge the aluminum surfaces when scraping the old gasket material from the mating surfaces of the water pump and front cover.

1. Clean the gasket surfaces on the water pump and front cover. Lightly oil all bolt and stud threads except those requiring special sealant.
2. Position a new water pump housing gasket on the water pump sealing surface using gasket sealant to hold the gasket in place.
3. With the water pump pulley and retaining bolts loosely installed on the water pump, align the water pump-to-engine front cover, then install the retaining bolts.
4. Tighten the bolts to the following specifications:
   1. Bolt numbers 1-10: 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
   2. Bolt numbers 11-15: 71-106 inch lbs (8-12 Nm).
      
5. Hand-tighten the water pump pulley retaining bolts.
6. Install the automatic belt tensioner assembly. Tighten the two retaining nuts and bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).
7. Install the alternator and power steering belts. Final tighten the water pump pulley retaining bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (22-30 Nm).
8. Position the hose clamps between the alignment marks on both ends of the hose, then slide the hose on the connection. Tighten the hose clamps to 20-30 inch lbs. (2.2-3.4 Nm).
9. Fill and bleed the cooling system.
10. Connect the negative battery cable.
11. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Hope this help; good luck and remember rated this post.

Click on the following free direct Link. It has the Serpentine Belt Diagram and Tensioner location for your 2000 Saturn SL.

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/2000/make/saturn/model/sl/2000_saturn_sl_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm

Before we get to putting it the Belt back on...
Look at the alignment of the Pulleys. Most times the Tensioner or Idle Pulley are "canted" - meaning pitched or leaning forward, which causes the belt to "run off" the pulley - throwing the belt.
With the Belt off: check side-to side play for each one of the Pulleys by hand, especially for the Tensioner and Idle Pulleys. There should not be any side-to side play. If there is any other Pulleys that are canted - check if they are properly tightened. A new belt should not have come off on it's own without some other problem.

GENERAL/Standard Rules to Removal the Serpentine Belt with a Tensioner:
A. Find the Tensioner(s). (See Diagrams on Link)
B. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool, Or Wrench OR Ratchet, Rotate/Move the Tensioner USING THE AVAILABLE NUT (on the Pulley or Arm Base) OR the OPENING (3/8ths or 1/2 inch square opening) rotating the Tensioner Pulley/Arm - moving it away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move.
C. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys.
D. DO NOT quickly release the Tensioner, but gently allow the Tensioner to rest in its closed position.

Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt with Tensioners:
a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on.
b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right.
c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley.
d. Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley.
e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.

Regarding the Strip Lug -Studs.
Is this on the wheels with Rotors (Disc) or Drums? If the tire was not properly mounted, or the Lug Nuts were not properly Torqued; this will cause the Lug Studs (bolts) to be stripped.
With the vehicle raised and properly supported by jack stands:
For Rotors:
Remove the Tire, Brakes (Calipers/Pads) and Rotor, exposing the Wheel Hub (Bearing) Assembly with the Studs fully exposed. Rotate the Wheel Hub to a location where the Lug Studs can be clearly removed FROM THE REAR OF THE WHEEL HUB ASSEMBLY.
Using a impact hammer or mini sledge hammer: Hammer the Lug Studs back thru the Wheel Hub Assembly.
Remove the loosened Lug Studs.

For Drums:
Raise, support, remove the Tires.
Remove the Drums off the Wheel Assembly.
Using a impact hammer or mini sledge hammer: Hammer the Lugs back into the drum, removing from inside the Drum

Purchase the new, correct size and length Lug Studs and new Lug Nuts. If the Studs were stripped, most like the Nuts are too.
To reinstall the Lug Studs: Purchase an additional two (2) Lug Nut that fits that Lug Stud. Also purchase several Large Heavy Duty Washers that can fit on the the Lug Studs.

Place the Lug Stud back into the Wheel Assembly from the Rear (Rotors) or from inside (Drums). Use High Temp Grease for the area of the Lug Stud Splines that have to be "drawn" into the Wheel Assembly (with Rotors) or into the Drum.
After the Lug Studs are "IN" as far as they will go: on the outside place at least two (2) of the Washers on Lug Studs. Use a Lug Nut and tighten as far as possible down-on the Lug Stud as possible.
Next: Using an Impact Wrench tighten that Lug Nut down/on, drawing the Lug Stud into the Wheel Assembly/Drum. Check the rear of/inside the Wheel Hub Assembly/Drum. The Heads of the Lug Studs should be firmly against the Wheel Assembly/Drum.
If you do not have a Impact Wrench - use at least a 24-in Breaker Bar and Tighten the Lug Nut on, drawing the Lug Stud into the Wheel Hub Assembly/Drum. This takes longer and alot more work, compared to 10-seconds using the Impact Wrench.
Repeat as necessary.

Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.Com!

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
2. Remove the serpentine drive belt.
   
3. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
   
4. Remove the right front wheel from the vehicle.
   
5. Remove the right wheel inner fender splash shield.
   
6. If equipped, remove the alternator dust shield attaching bolt and unclip the shield from the alternator. When removing the dust shield, be careful not to damage the rubber boot over the battery's positive terminal.
   
7. Disengage the alternator field wire connector.
   
8. Remove the retaining nut and wire from the positive (B+) terminal on the back of the alternator, using alternator output stud wrench SA9401C or equivalent, as a back-up wrench to prevent the stud from rotating. If the positive terminal stud rotates, the plastic insulator will crack or break, causing alternator failure.
   
9. Remove the upper and lower alternator attaching bolts.
   
10. Remove the alternator from the vehicle through the wheel well opening.
    

To install:

1. Position the alternator in the vehicle and install the lower attaching bolt.
   
2. Install the upper attaching bolt and tighten both bolts to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
   
3. Engage the alternator field wire connector.
   
4. Install the B+ terminal wire. The battery terminal wire should be placed on the back of the alternator between a 10 and 11 o'clock position.
   
5. Be sure to use the alternator output stud wrench SA9401C to prevent the terminal stud from rotating, then tighten the alternator positive terminal nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
   
6. Install the alternator dust shield and tighten the fastener bolt to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
   
7. Install the serpentine drive belt.
   
8. Install the wheel well splash shield and right front wheel. Tighten the wheel lugs in a criss-cross pattern to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
   
9. Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
   
10. Connect the negative battery cable
    

Pictures on next post!

Disconnect battery earth lead. Do not turn crankshaft or camshaft when timing belt removed. Remove spark plugs to ease turning engine. Turn engine in normal direction of ratation unless otherwise stated, Support engine. Remove, engine mounting, auxilliaty drive belts. Water pump pulley 1. Crankshaft pulley bolts 21. crankshaft pully 2. timing belt covers 3. Turn crankshaft to TDC on No 1 cyclinder. Ensure crankshaft sprocket, camshaft sprocket, oil pump sprocket and balancer shaft sprocket timing marks aligned. Timing marks on camshaft sprockets should align with cylinder head upper face. Dowel pins on camshaft sprockets should face upwards. Slacken tensioner bolt. Move tensioner away from belt and lightly tighten bolt. Remove, automatic tensioner unit bolts. Automatic tensioner unit. Timing belt, crankshaft centre bolt, crankshaft sprocket. Crankshaft sprocket guide washer. Slacken blancer shaft belt tensioner bolt. Move tensioner away from belt and lightly tighten bolt. Remove balancer shaft belt.

Installation
Ensuring timing marks arligned. Note timing marks on camshaft sprockets should align with cylinder head upper face. Exhaust sprocket mark is on recess, but inlet sprocket mark is on tooth. Note: to check oil pump sprocket positioned correctly, removing blanking plug from cylinder block. Insert 8mm diameter Phillips srcrewdriver in hole. Ensure screwdriver is inserted 60mm from face of cylinder block. if screwdriver can only be inserted 20mm: turn oil pump sprocket 360°. Insert screwdriver again. Fit balancer shaft belt in anti-clockwise direction, starting at crankshaft sprocket. Slacken balancer shaft belt tensioner bolt. Turn tensioner clockwise to tension belt. Tighten bolt to 15-22Nm. Apply thumb pressure to belt. Belt should deflect 5-7 mm. If not repeat tensioning procedure. Install crankshaft sprocket guide washer, crnakshaft sprocket. Tighten crankshaft cente bolt. Tighten torque:110-130 Nm. Note ensure crankshaft sprocket guide washer is fitted correclty. Oil treads and contact face of crankshaft body before fitting. Check tensioner body for leakage or damage replace if necessary. Check pushrod protrusion is 12mm. If not replace automatic tensioner unit. Slowly compress pushrod into tensioner body until holes aligned. Resistance should be felt. Place flat washer under tnesioner body to avoid damage to body end plugs. Retain pushrod with suitable pin through hole in tensioner body. install automatic tensioner unit to cylinder block. Tighten bolts to 22-27Nm. Fit timing belt in anti-clockwise direction, starting at the tensioner pulley. Slacken tensioner pulley bolt. Turn tensioner pully clockwise to temporarily tension belt. Tighten bolts to 43-45Nm. Turn crankshaft slowly 1/4 turn anti-cockwise. Turn crankshaft clockwise until timing marks alligned. Slacken tensioner pully bolt. Fit tool to tensioner pulley. Tool No 09244 28100. Apply clockwise torque of 2,6-2,8 Nm to tensioner pulley. Tighten bolt to 43-45Nm. Insert special tool in timing belt rear casing. Tool no 09244-28000. Screw in tool until pin can be removed from automatic tensioner unit. Remove special tool. Tool nr 09244-28000. turn crankshaft two turns clockwise. Wait 15 minutes. Ensure timing marks aligned. Check extended length of pushrod is 3,8-4,5mm. Install components in reverse order of removal. Tighten crankshaft pulley bolts, Tighten torque 20-30Nm

96 escort 1.9L




Engine Components
Item Part Number Description 1 6766 Oil Filler Cap 2 6A548 (8 Req'd) Valve Cover Bolt 3 6582 Valve Cover 4 — Exhaust Manifold Shield-to-Exhaust Manifold Nut (4 Req'd) 5 9A462 Exhaust Manifold Shield 6 — Exhaust Manifold Shield Stud (4 Req'd) 7 9430 Exhaust Manifold 8 9454 Exhaust Manifold Nut 9 9448 Exhaust Manifold Gasket 10 — Exhaust Manifold Stud (Fine Thread), Short (4 Req'd) 11 — Exhaust Manifold Stud, Long (1 Req'd) 12 — Exhaust Manifold Stud (Medium Thread), Short (1 Req'd) 13 6518 Valve Spring Retainer Key 14 6514 Valve Spring Retainer 15 6513 Valve Spring and Damper, Intake 16 6C515 Valve Tappet Guide Plate Retainer 17 6571 Valve Stem Seal 18 6513 Valve Spring, Exhaust 19 12405 Spark Plug 20 6269 Camshaft Thrust Plate 21 — Camshaft Thrust Plate Bolt (2 Req'd) 22 — Cup Plug 23 6B273 Camshaft Oil Flow Control Rod 24 6K292 Camshaft Front Seal 25 6256 Camshaft Sprocket 26 6278 Camshaft Sprocket Washer 27 6K252 Camshaft Sprocket Retaining Bolt 28 6L269 Camshaft Sprocket Key (5 x 18) 29 6250 Camshaft 30 6051 Head Gasket 31 6A008 Cylinder Head to Block Dowel 32 6010 Cylinder Block 33 6507 Intake Valve 34 6505 Exhaust Valve 35 6049 Cylinder Head 36 — Intake Manifold Stud (7 Req'd) 37 17A084 Engine Lifting Eye 38 — Engine Lifting Eye Bolt (2 Req'd) 39 9439 Intake Manifold Gasket 40 — Bolt 41 9723 Accelerator Cable Bracket 42 9424 Intake Manifold 43 — Intake Manifold Nut (7 Req'd) 44 9D476 EGR Valve Gasket 45 — Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Bolt (2 Req'd) 46 9D475 EGR Valve 47 — Fuel Injection Supply Manifold Bolt
(2 Req'd) 48 9F593 Fuel Injector 49 9D930 Fuel Charging Wiring 50 6786 Oil Level Indicator Tube Bracket 51 — Oil Level Indicator Tube Bracket Bolt 52 6754 Oil Level Indicator Tube 53 6750 Oil Level Dipstick 54 9D280 Fuel Injection Supply Manifold 55 — Vacuum Fitting 56 9E498 Main Emission Vacuum Control Connector 57 — Vacuum Tap 58 — Vacuum Hose 59 9B989 Throttle Position Sensor 60 — Screw and Washer 61 9F782 Throttle Position Sensor Gasket 62 — Throttle Body Bolt (4 Req'd) 63 — Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Bolt
(2 Req'd) 64 9F715 Idle Air Control Valve 65 9F670 Idle Air Control Gasket 66 9E926 Throttle Body 67 9E936 Throttle Body Gasket 68 — Vacuum Fitting 69 — Camshaft Position Sensor Screw 70 6B288 Camshaft Position Sensor 71 8255 Water Hose Connection Gasket 72 — Water Hose Connection Bolt (3 Req'd) 73 8592 Water Hose Connection 74 8575 Water Thermostat 75 6065 Cylinder Head Bolts 76 6500 Valve Tappet 77 6K512 Valve Tappet Guide Plate 78 6564 Rocker Arm 79 6A528 Rocker Arm Seat 80 6A527 Rocker Arm Bolt (8 Req'd) 81 — Ignition Coil Mounting Bracket Bolt
(3 Req'd) 82 18827 Noise Filter Condenser 83 — Ignition Coil Mounting Bolt (4 Req'd) 84 12259 Spark Plug Wire Set 85 12029 Ignition Coil 86 12043 Ignition Coil Mounting Bracket A — Tighten to 5-12 Nm (4-9 Lb-Ft) B — Tighten to 5-7 Nm (3-5 Lb-Ft) C — Tighten to 21-26 Nm (16-19 Lb-Ft) D — Tighten to 2-10 Nm (1.5-7 Lb-Ft) E — Tighten to 8-13 Nm (6-9 Lb-Ft) F — Tighten to 40-55 Nm (30-41 Lb-Ft) G — Tighten to 16-20 Nm (12-15 Lb-Ft) H — Tighten to 20-30 Nm (15-22 Lb-Ft) I — Tighten to 8-10 Nm (6-8 Lb-Ft) J — Tighten to 8-11 Nm (6-9 Lb-Ft) K — Tighten to 23-30 Nm (17-22 Lb-Ft) L — Tighten to 20-40 Nm (15-30 Lb-Ft) M — Tighten to 4.5-7 Nm (3-5 Lb-Ft) N — Tighten to 18-26 Nm (13-19 Lb-Ft)

Sir,
If you look at the tensioner pulley, there is a stud on which the pulley rides, and then a large washer and a nut (which holds it on). The nut must be loosened just a bit (not so loose as to allow alot of play in the mounting) but just loose enough to allow movement - then you can turn the adjustment bolt Clockwise(CW) tighten - or Counter-CW to loosen - but leave it just a bit shy of tight, then as you tighten the nut, the pulley will straighten and tighten a bit more. I hope this is what you are referring to. Hope it helps! DD