At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
I have replaced : ignition control module, distributor, rotor, plugs and wires. I have 12VDC coming fromj the coil to the distributor. nothing for distributor to cylinders. I have checked fuses, all appear ok.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
When troubleshooting an ignition "no-spark" issue, it's helpful to first understand how the system works in sequence. The process starts with the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor detecting engine rotation and cylinder position. The CKP signal is interpreted by the powertrain control module (PCM) which then sends a signal to the ignition control module (ICM). The ICM then drives the ignition coil which is when the high voltage (for spark) is created. From there, the high voltage goes through the ignition coil wire to the center of the distributor cap. Here, the spring-loaded button of the cap touches the center of the spinning rotor and transfers the voltage. The high voltage then jumps from the rotor to whichever pole the rotor is pointed towards at the outer edge of the cap; let's say it's cylinder #1. High voltage then travels through the cylinder #1 ignition wire to the cylinder #1 spark plug where it sparks and ignites the cylinder's air/fuel mixture. Considering these things, if there is no spark from any of the cylinder-specific ignition wires, the issue must be further upstream. Start by unplugging the ignition coil wire where it attaches to the distributor and check for spark; if present, the issue is with the distributor cap or rotor. If not present, the issue is further upstream. ICM and ignition coils are both pretty common failures, but further in-depth diagnosis would need to be performed in order to determine if there is a circuit failure, sensor failure, module failure, or other component failure. You can read more here: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-replace-a-distributor-rotor-and-cap-by-tim-charlet
I guess you could have the ignition analyzed on an oscilloscope. Maybe a tech could see something then. I always heard the only gap was the spark plug gap-the rotor has no gap-are you sure you got the correct rotor? And does it touch the top distributor cap coil wire tower?
Let us know. It is a mystery worthy of a solution.
The ignition system on your 5.0L uses a distributor type system and will include the following components:
Ignition control module (ICM). Depending on the year of your specific Ford, it'll have a inner-fender mounted ignition control module or a distributor mounted ignition control module. hot sure which you have.
Ignition coil. you replaced it.
PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) sensor. This is Ford's name for the crank sensor and is mounted inside the distributor. The most common name for this component is the pick up coil.
Distributor cap and rotor. you replaced
Spark plug wires. you replaced.
The thing to keep in mind about the ignition system is that all engine cylinders must get spark and the one thing that will stop the ignition system from creating spark on a wholesale scale is a BAD crank sensor.Have you pulled a plug then using some insulated pliers grounded it to the vehicle and turned it over to see if you have spark, that'll tell you alot.takes two people of course.Best of luck and hope this helps.
Most of the time these distributor come with the ignition module did your, if it did and it has not been that long and is still under warranty, have it replace, if it did not come with one replace module.
You can change pick-up coil, you need to remove distributor (mark where rotor is pointing first) Then you need to remove pin in cam gear on end of shaft to remove gear so you can remove shaft from housing. Then you can replace pick-up coil. Install in reverse. Note when removing distributor rotor will move to the right as you lift distributor out, move rotor to right of mark you made when installing distributor back in.
assuming you the coil, plugs, cap, rotor and wires are good. check the cam sensor, If you have 12 volts to the coil using a 12v light tester. The cam sensor responsible for sending info to the computer telling it that the cam is turning, then the computer tell the coil to dispurse the charge/sparks to the distributor as distributordistribute the sparks to each plugs from the rotor of the distributor. Replace the cam sensor, it tend to go bad over period of time.
Spark comes to the plugs, via through the ignition switch ( in the on position) to the primary side of coil. Possibilities ignition switch, distributor cap , rotor, plug wires, coil, control module. If you remove the coil, control module these can be tested at Autozone for free.
Thats the same thing im have with my 1993 t100
×