I have a 1993 Subaru Legacy. The power door locks dont work. The front passanger and the rear seat doors will not unlock. I have to physically mash in on the lock lever and pull up on the outside latch at the same time to open the doors. I have checked the fuse and it is ok. Does any one have a good idea

Selecting Audible Signal Operation; Warning Chimes And Warning Light; Disabling Keyless Access Function - Subaru 2013 Legacy, 2013 Outback Owner's Manual [Page 114] ' ManualsLib

Owner manual has some pages to do with Door lock and unlock. Go to the search and put door unlock and a few pages come up.
I did see when the drivers door inside handle is pulled it should unlock the doors if car is off. The other thing mentioned on several page is contact dealer for changes to door lock and unlock operation.
This owner's manual may help you with other issues if you don't have the manual.

It says the tachometer wire is Yellow/Green, you do not have that listed. You will find it in the list below, it is highlighted..

WIRING INFORMATION 2001 Subaru Legacy

WIREWIRE COLOR LOCATION

12V CONSTANT WIRE WHITE Ignition Harness

12V IGNITION WIRE GREEN Ignition Harness

12V ACCESSORY WIRE YELLOW Ignition Harness

STARTER WIRE WHITE/BLACK Ignition Harness

POWER DOOR LOCK (-) WHITE Harness In Driver's Kick Panel

POWER DOOR UNLOCK (-) GREEN/RED Harness In Driver's Kick Panel

PARKING LIGHTS (+) ORANGE At Light Switch

DOOR TRIGGER (-) PINK/BLACK In White Connector Behind Fuse Box

TRUNK TRIGGER (-) YELLOW/BLUE In White Connector Behind Fuse Box

TRUNK RELEASE (5-wire) LT.GREEN/YELLOW At Motor In Tail Gate

FACTORY ALARM ARM (-) Factory remote only

FACTORY ALARM DISARM (-) Factory remote only

TACHOMETER YELLOW/GREEN At Ignition Coil

BRAKE WIRE (+) WHITE/BLACK At Brake Pedal Switch

HORN TRIGGER (-) RED/GREEN Harness At Steering Column

LEFT FRONT WINDOW UP BLUE/RED At Driver Window Motor Inside Door

LEFT FRONT WINDOW DOWN BLUE At Driver Window Motor Inside Door

RIGHT FRONT WINDOW UP BLUE/RED Harness In Driver's Kick From Driver Door

RIGHT FRONT WINDOW DOWN BLUE Harness In Driver's Kick From Driver Door

LEFT REAR WINDOW UP BLUE/RED Harness In Driver's Kick From Driver Door

LEFT REAR WINDOW DOWN BLUE Harness In Driver's Kick From Driver Door

RIGHT REAR WINDOW UP BLUE/RED Harness In Driver's Kick From Driver Door
RIGHT REAR WINDOW DOWN BLUE Harness In Driver's Kick From Driver Door

Replacing the drivers door switch most often takes care of this problem. Due to the cost of the part have a dealer confirm this.

junkyards, ebay, craigslist

Check the alignment with the door pin. Might be out of adjustment and will not let the door close all the way. That will cause the lock to not be operable. Good luck and have a great day.

The seat belt retractor mechanism is not electrical their mechanical. They must be damaged if not retracting or your parked on a grade. They are made to lock on any fore other than sitting level. This vehicle may have another lock agent involved like open doors or the like. Read your owners manual...

I have a 92 that did the same. After checking fuses and the relay(located under drivers seat) I discovered that the power windows control module on drivers door was bad. Went to a salvage and bought a used for $40, pulled the door panel, unscrewed and unplugged the old one, put in the used one and everything worked fine. About a week later, the passenger side motor went out and replaced that with a used power window motor. All windows now work fine.

Check for a rusty handle. If you push the handle forward then try the power unlock then open the door with handle. I have been finding that the handle becomes rusty and does not return all the way when released. Therefore not allowing the locks to disengage. Hope this helps.

If it's mega cold in your area, it could be ice. We've had several things not open lately. All due to moisture/condensation freezing.
Just a tho't.

If it takes that much force to manually open the doors, and it's on the doors that are less used, then I'd bet it's a set of door locks and actuators in need of lubrication. 
Electric door lock actuators can easily be stopped or slowed down by resistance in the mechanism. This can be caused by corrosion, water getting into the door, and just old age and lack of use. I'd take the door panels off and take a peek. 
On the Legacy the panels pop off fairly easily. You'll need to pry them off carefully with a flat screwdriver. You'll feel where the fasteners are, where the panels are resisting coming off, and prise the panel gently and firmly at these points and they'll pop out. Once out you'll see the lock mechanism. 
Moving it by hand will tell if it's corroded or bound up. Apply some white litium grease to the mechanism, making sure to squirt/work it in, and then work the door handle/mechanism to get the lube into the linkage and actuators. Check the electrical contacts for corrosion while there and spray with WD-40 to protect them. This should free up the door mechanism and the actuators should then be able to do their job.
If after the above steps the electric actuators still don't work, use a voltmeter or circuit tester to check for 12V at the actuator when the door button is pressed. If you don't see any power, recheck that fuse and then the wiring back to the door harness. It's unlikely that this is the cause as its unlikely that you'd get only 3 out of 4 bad, but you never know in these old cars.
Hope this helps.