1997 dodge intrepid

An engine that will crank but not start can be tricky to diagnose. First, we can rule out the battery, starter and circuits in-between due to the cranking condition. The three areas to focus our attention on are compression, spark and fuel. Generally speaking, a compression gauge should show each cylinder at above 100 PSI for an engine to run. Low compression would have to be present across all cylinders (or at least one bank on a v-shaped engine) to generate a no-start condition which would be indicative of a timing belt or other mechanical issue. Next, a spark tester should show ignition spark present while the engine is cranking. With a coil-on-plug (COP) setup it would be inconceivable for all six plugs or coils to fail simultaneously, therefore if spark is not present it would point to a crankshaft position sensor (CKP) or other control-side issue. Lastly, there is the fuel system which is two-fold; fuel supply and fuel delivery. Fuel supply is the fuel pump which takes fuel from the tank and supplies it to the fuel rail at the engine. The fuel pump should prime (turn on for a few seconds) when the key is cycled on. Fuel pressure can be checked at the fuel rail for proper operation or alternatively a flammable aerosol such as starting fluid can be sprayed into the intake while cranking to see if the engine runs. Fuel delivery on the other hand consists of the fuel injectors which must be modulated. Much like the ignition coils it is not likely to have six injectors fail at once, therefore if fuel is not injecting into the intake it would point to a camshaft position sensor (CMP) or other control-side issue. You can read more here: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p2619-obd-ii-trouble-code-crank-position-signal-output-circuit-open-by-valerie-johnston

You must find out if all the power from the distributor is getting to the plugs & the proper fuel PSI is being INJECTED into the motor (are the injectors INJECTING the proper psi at the right time or are the PLUGS FIRING properly? Poss? cam/ crank sensor, Not a steady Honda man but start w/ the basics. You got a reliable one there. check Fuel PSI, Air. Gas PSI, Spark & codes usually reff to electronic problems. Good Luck, Frank M

hi dean.
try this link it might help you find out why it will not start.
1997 dodge Avenger with 2 0 engine Cranks but no spark Google Search

On Chrysler products, the first thing you check is the ASD relay to see if it is working. It powers several things including the coil and injectors on some models.
No spark can be caused by not having power to the coil, or signals from the cam and crank sensors.

Check the fuel pump fuse and relay, if it's OK, you have a bad fuel pump. About the no spark, could be many things
Ignition coil, distributor (if so equipment) , main shaft position sensor, computer problem
Good Luck

you say fuel pressure is good, but what is it? what is the fuel pressure when it stalls out? Spec is 60-66 psi and it wont run if its 55 psi. the fuel pump relay should be good if the pump runs. Make sure the ground for the pump is good , G402 should be on left frame rail. you may have had it off to replace the pump? maybe? it may be time to stop guessing and have a repair shop diagnose it for you. You sure have replaced a lot of good parts.

First check any ignition/fuel related fuses. Check to make sure you have 12 volts coming into the pump and coil. If nothing to the fuel pump replace the fuel pump relay - if you do have power to the fuel pump then replace the pump. If nothing is coming to the coil it is either an ignition relay or a wiring issue. If you have 12 volts to the coil but no spark then replace the coil.
Also the fuel pump/relay would not kill the coil.

Try mass air flow sensor.

I have this same NO START problem...
Began with tach giving readings not exceding 1200 rpm with strange 4000 + spikes.. Cruse control would not turn on or off at times and indicator light would only work sometimes..Had several episodes of excessive cranking to get it to start.. Stalling out while driving and even at freeway speeds.. Pulling the negative cable for 10 min. allowed it to start although with lots of cranking and put it in limp mode which required another computer reset to get out of.. Had thrown error codes related to cam and crank sensors which were replaced along with coil and manifold temp sensors.. Had the 9 volt power to sensors when key was on but the check engine light does not stay on with all the other idiot lights..
I wish people who respond would read the post first..
Original post states,
Cranks,No spark,No fuel pump run, changed some sensors ect...
If it cranks it ain't the neutral safety switch, starter or battery!! WAKE UP!!
Seems the computer is not turning on the coil, injectors or fuel pump for a reason.. Find that reason and you will find the solution to the problem.. Seeing as that the computers logic states are a dealer secrete the poster as I have changed many parts in blind hope that it will fix the problem.. Relays, sensors and ecu computer.. Did a visual check of all harness potential wear spots like where it crosses over the power rack..
Could it be in the wiring harness inside the dash??
Could it be a bad ground??
Can an alternator that has failed cause the computer not to start??
Can a bad oil pressure sensor cause the computer not to start??
Can signal loss from the TCU or BCU to the ECU cause this??
Is there an undocumented kill if the ECU thinks it was in an accident??
I can ground the relay line from the ECU and the fuel pump runs and pressures up and the other relays turn on as well..
This crank but no start problem seems to be common with a lot of 1994-2001 Dodge and Chrysler owners.. All these systems have become interlaced with undocumented safety features that baffle the DIYer..If you have seen this and have fixed it PLEASE RESPOND!!!!

No start on 97 dodge intrepid. I Know that Coil pack is Below Valve cover and Have repaired Numerous Ignition coils due to there becoming Oil soaked , the oil will gather dust dirt and thus Insulating ( Retaining Heat) i and this Causes them to Over heat and Fail , in short Burning them out. I say this Because of your Mention of it as a symptom. you must first Determine if it is getting spark ,have someone Crank Engine over While you are Holding the Spark plug wire 1/4 inch away from coil tower (TERMINAL) do this to all 6 if no spark at any of them ,that coil could be bad (Most Likley), If all Have NO SPARK then it is One of the fallowing,,

1. Cam Sensor
2. Crank Sensor
3. Ignition control module

If Control module is wet with Oil most likely needs replaced some Parts stores can test coil and Modules.

NOW if you have Spark on All 6 Cylinders Check for fuel delivery, Do this at the shrader Valve on the fuel rail,(LOOKS LIKE AIR FILL VALVE ON WHEELS) Simply remove cap turn key on for 5 seconds then turn it OFF Depress the Stem at shrader valve If you get a Good SPRAY of FUEL upon doing this 3-4 times then you have Fuel Pressure !!!!WARNING !!! Test Equipment is Recommended for all Procedures but their certain steps to take if you don't have a DIGITAL VOLT METER or Fuel Pressure tester. I Hope this helps you with your Diagnosis od the problem. Have A Good Day