How do I locate the sensor on a 2003 A4 1.8L? I see a blue sensor on the right by the firewall, and a green sensor on the left nearer to the battery on the left. Is it possible that I already have a green sensor in my car?It started with the coolant sensor warnings, now the car stalls/jerks when I drive. Thank You!
the coolant temp sensor is on the rear of the engine; 4 pin connector with normally a green sensor. look between the firewall and the valve cover you should see it. be careful this can be a difficult and hot repair.
the blue sensor? not sure what you mean possibly your radiator cap?
coolant sensor warning? low coolant?the coolant temp sensor is on the rear of the engine; 4 pin connector with normally a green sensor. look between the firewall and the valve cover you should see it. be careful this can be a difficult and hot repair.
the blue sensor? not sure what you mean possibly your radiator cap?
coolant sensor warning?
low coolant?
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It'll be a semi transparent plastic container with either green or orange coolant in it. should be on the right hand side by the firewall I believe. Make sure the engine has been off for at least an hour and place a towel over the cap before opening. Open the cap slowly as there may be pressure built up and you don't want it to spray... Also do not mix green coolant with orange coolant...
Sounds like your TCC (torque converter clutch) solenoid is causing improper lockup, causing the engine to stall. It works similar to putting your hand on a ceiling fan to stop the blades. I believe this is where you will find your problem.
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Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Green
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Green/Orange
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Blue
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Yellow
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Under the Driver Seat.
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Tweeter Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue
Left Front Tweeter Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Red
Left Front Mid Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black
Left Front Mid Speaker Negative Wire (-): White
Left Front Low Speaker Positive Wire (+): Yellow
Left Front Low Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue
Right Front Tweeter Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Orange
Right Front Tweeter Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green/Orange
Right Front Mid Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black
Right Front Mid Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Red
Right Front Low Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black
Right Front Low Speaker Negative Wire (-): White
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue
2003 Kia Spectra Car Stereo Wiring Color Codes
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Pink Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Green Car Radio Ground Wire: Black Car Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Black Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Green Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Brown Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Yellow/White Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow/Red Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/Black Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Green Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green/Yellow Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Ornage/Black
It'll be a semi transparent plastic container with either green or orange coolant in it. should be on the right hand side by the firewall I believe. Make sure the engine has been off for at least an hour and place a towel over the cap before opening. Open the cap slowly as there may be pressure built up and you don't want it to spray... Also do not mix green coolant with orange coolant...
2003 Mercury Sable Car Radio Wiring Schematic
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Green/Yellow Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow/Black Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Light Green Car Radio Illumination Wire: Light Blue/Red Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Light Green Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue/White Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Light Green Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green/Orange Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray/Light Blue Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Tan/Yellow Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Red Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Pink
It's most likely one of two things: 1) coolant temp sensor (meaning the gauge isn't working), or 2) stuck thermostat (meaning the gauge is working but the coolant isn't getting hot)
Start with the coolant temp sensor - it's on the back of the engine, somewhat near the top, toward the passenger side. On your car it's likely a blue sensor body (as is the CTS on my 99 A4 2.8). The easiest way to get to it is to remove the tube leading from the airbox to the throttle body. Take that off, and you can look down and see that there's a squarish plug with four wires plugged into the top of the coolant temp sensor (at the right angle you can see the color of the sensor - black, blue, or light green, but most likely blue on your car). There's a C-shaped retaining clip that holds the connector onto the sensor which must be pulled off (pull more or less straight back toward the firewall), and then the sensor can be unplugged. The sensor itself is just pressed into the opening in the block, not screwed in - you just have to pull upward to get it out (it can be tough - try opening the cap on the coolant tank to alleviate pressure in the system). The sensor is not expensive (around $25 from www.ecstuning.com - call them up with your VIN number to guarantee they send you the right sensor).
If you change that out, and it doesn't fix the problem, don't sweat it - it means your temp sensor was working, but replacing it was a good idea anyhow since they're prone to failure and can cause all kinds of wacky problems when they go. Next most likely problem is a thermostat stuck partially or fully open, and this is more invasive - it requires removing the front bumper, opening up the core support (with radiator and AC condensor), losing (and having to flush and refill) your coolant, and the removal of the serpentine belt and fans. It sounds horrifying but it's pretty easy actually.
I'd suggest starting with the CTS and see if it fixes the problem. If it does not, reply here and let me know and I can help you through the thermostat replacement if you're mechanically inclined and have the tools. If you're in the northeast, I can do either repair for you (I'm in the southern tier of NY) and save you a bundle over a dealership, and save you the aggravation of doing it yourself if you're not mechanical or don't have the tools or experience.
The sensor you have described is the radiator coolant temp sensor, the one you want (that often becomes faulty) is located directly at the back of the engine on a pipe between the engine and the bulk head. It is very tight to get to. The sensor is usually green or black, you will need to use a very long flat blade screw driver to remove the 'c' shaped clip (I think its the same clip you would of seen on the rad) I reccommend you try and get a spare clip as they can be easily dropped! With the clip out you can ease the sensor up and out, its prob easier to leave the connector on untill removed. Replace the seal if possible. When refitting the new sensor ease it in gently to avoid damaging and put the clip in which ever way is easier (if i remember correctly the clip can go back in the other side to which it came out- this way is much easier!) Hope this helps.
Avoid doing it when the cars hot, and even if its warm release the pressure by undoing the coolant bottle cap carefully. You shouldnt lose too much coolant when changing sensor. Let me know if you want anymore info.
Sounds like a failure of the engine coolant temperature sensor, which is a known weakness on the B5 chassis Audi A4 (model years 96-01). The sensor is relatively inexpensive ($20-30) and if you call up ECS Tuning (www.ecstuning.com) or Pure Motorsports (www.purems.com) with your VIN number, they can send you the correct sensor (there are three types, identified by color of the connector - black, blue, or green). Changing it is somewhat of a pain due to its location, but it can be done in 30-40 minutes. You have the 12 valve 2.8 V6 - take a look at www.audidiy.com and www.12v.org (two dedicated Audi sites) - there are a ton of tech procedures on those sites, and you'll likely find what you need there - a detailed, step by step, photo-referenced procedure on how to change the sensor.
How do I locate the sensor on a 2003 A4 1.8L? I see a blue sensor on the right by the firewall, and a green sensor on the left nearer to the battery on the left. Is it possible that I already have a green sensor in my car?
the coolant temp sensor is on the rear of the engine; 4 pin connector with normally a green sensor. look between the firewall and the valve cover you should see it. be careful this can be a difficult and hot repair.
the blue sensor? not sure what you mean possibly your radiator cap?
coolant sensor warning?
low coolant?
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