Alarm system and Central locking system problem

SOURCE: power locks on 2000 honda accord coupe

have the computer checked yuu have a error code or a short in the system

SOURCE: My Honda CR-V EX 2005

They all do it, its part of the security system that all the doors lock after a minute or so from unlocking if you don't open the driver's door.
It prevents you from accidentally unlocking the car door while walking away and clicking the remote in your pocket, the car re-locks on its own.
If you open with the remote then open only the rear door, the other doors all lock and when you close the rear the alarm goes off.
What fun we have!

SOURCE: 2000 Honda Accord Alarm does not arm

Blown fuse?, check to owners manual for a theft system fuse.

SOURCE: 2004 Honda Accord Euro. Central

I am a mechanic and had the same problem with a 2005 Acord that I purchased couple of months ago. Contact through the trade provided little help. The problem arose during a week that we in Adelaide, South Australia had a record o 40+ degrees centigrade heat. I noticed the drop knob slightly moving when the immobiliser was activated, but the drivers door failed to lock. Key locking would lock all doors however.
The cost of a door actuator from a Honda dealer was $185.00 (Aus), about $250 (US). The spare parts guy told me they had them in stock and sold a number of them. As a result I decided to find out whether the actuator was in fact faulty. I susequently removed the door lock and actuator assembly from the door. (A fiddly type job). The actuator assembly is in a plastic sealed assembly. By using a lot of patience and a box cutter I was able to cut around the assembly and then carefully lever the plastic housing apart. This revealled the small electric motor (similar to a slot car motor) that drove a worm and wheel assembly and a system of cams that actuated the door lock system. I found on dismantling the electric motor that the armature was coated with grease from the wormwheel /cam assembly that is mounted above the motor when installed in the vehicle. I cleaned the armature and brushes using superfine wet and dry carborundum paper, undercut and cleaned out the two armature segments of all remaining grease with a solvent. The motor was then tested with 12 volts and found to be ok. I then reinstalled the motor and glued the housing back together. It now works fine. I believe the housing was either initially overfilled with lubricant or that the high ambient temperature caused the grease to melt and flow into the elecric motor contaminating the motor. (There is no seal between the gearbox and the electric motor). The job took a few hours from start to finish but I saved the cost of purchasing the part and didn't let it beat me.
Cheers and beers
Alistair Buckley

SOURCE: master door switch? or something else? buzzes when i press lock

ok ur door lock switch isnt going out,,however ur drivers front door lock actuator is going or is already bad...have that replaced..also as far as the end noise buzz u hear , that may be ur a.b.s modulator and accumulator cycleing on and off..it may be empty and or leaking..have the a.b.s modulator and accumulator checked at the dealer..its an expensive fix... ur modulator unit in in the front left or right of the vehicle depending if u have a v6 or 4 cyl. its a square unit with a rectangular brake fluid resevroir and a long tubular cylinder (acummulator)... also identify it by the orange connectors...and the brakelines going to it...common symptom with those accords....they leak alot especially if with high mileage..