2002 Chevy Trailblazer: Right Rear of the vehicle is leaking fluid from what appears to be a factory drip/overflow nipple. Two aluminum lines run under the vehicle up into the right rear, but are runn

Under the hood, inside the line going in to the aluminum canister for your a/c. Have the system evacuated before loosening any lines.

I would consider a flammable liquid leaking from a vehicle as a dangerous situation...yes. It sounds as though you have a hole in a fuel line and need to get into a service center ASAP.

Since the Caravan is front wheel drive, there would be no transmission lines running to the rear of the vehicle. This reduces the possibilities to either a fuel leak, or a brake line. If you smell the fluid you should be able to tell immediately if it were gasoline. This would be a dangerous thing. Fuel leaks must be isolated and repaired quickly to avoid risk of fire. If it were brake fluid, and the leak were stead, you should, if you inspect the brake master cylinder reservoir, a lower level of fluid than normal, possibly even a total loss of fluid in the rear chamber. If so, then the brake line to the rear has probably ruptured from age/corrosion. It must be repaired or replaced.

Transmissions dont "use" fluid. If you are replacing half a quart a week you have a leak somewhere.. Try tightening the transmission pan bolts. If this doesnt stop the leak you may have a bad pan gasket. There are also two small tubes running from the ****** to the radiator for cooling. One or both may be leaking. Put a liece of cardboatd or wood under your truck to catch drips. This will help you to locate where it is leaking from.

From what I have read elsewhere: There is an overflow hose on top of transmission behind engine which actually is from the transfer case. Fluid will drip down onto exhaust and eventually catch on fire. Check transfer case for being overfull by taking the top fill plug out. If transmission fluid runs out, I believe the transfer case input shaft seal is shot and needs replaced. Mine caught on fire. I was lucky to get fire out before truck burnt to the ground. If you continue to drive vehicle at have something to put out a fire!!!!

i am not sure about the process that you used to bleed the brakes, whether it was a one man bleeding kit, or anything else, but this is a bleeding process which i have used for over 10 years on everything from motorbikes, cars, trucks and rally cars.

It is as follows : ------

Use 2 people....i know this may be hard to arrange but i have even used my mom.

Use one person to sit in the vehicle, engine off. Now firstly go to the furthest brake bleed nipple from the reservoir. If the reservoir is located on the left hand front of the vehicle, then go to the right hand rear nipple (with wheels off, preferably). And vice-versa.

Next, with the nipple CLOSED, get the assistant to pump the brakes slowly (do not go fast, it is not a race....lol). Down, as far as it will go, and all the way up....repeat 2-3 times.

Next, get them to hold the brake pedal down, now OPEN the bleed nipple, and ask them to repeat, all the way down, and then up again, 2- 3 times, then CLOSE the nipple. This flushes the system out. Again, sloooowly.

Next, with the NIPPLE closed, get assistant to pump the pedal again SLOWLY 2-3 times, this action forces the remaining air in the system to the nipple end of the brake lines.

Next, have your assistant hold the pedal down, gently OPEN the nipple slowly until the fluid comes out...as the fluid is still coming, CLOSE the bleed nipple. DO NOT let them get to the bottom of the stroke.
What happenes if they reach the floor, and you still have the nipple OPEN, is that a small amount of air leaks into the system, and after a couple of days driving with heat expansion, your brakes are spongy again.

Repeat this 2-3 times on that wheel.

Go to the opposite side of the vehilce now, the left hand rear wheel and perform the same action.

Then the right front wheel.

And finally the left front wheel, the closest to the brake master cylinder reservoir.

Remember to use fresh, new up to date brake fluid.

And use a clear tube or straight into a bucket, so that you can see successfully the air coming out of the system.

Failing this, if you have bled the sytem properly, and this still occurs, and you have no leaks, it is time for a brake master cylinder replacement. As there is a number of rubber seals that keep each brake sytem seperate, within the master cylinder as a safety precaution. If one sytem fails...ie left front brake hose leaks, then that side of the sytem (the left front and right rear, in a opposite system) will leak out, BUT the right front system(which includes the left rear as well)will still maintain pressure to be able to slow the vehicle down to a stop (obviously with increased pedal travel)

REMEMBER not to get any brake fluid on the paintwork, as it is a great paint remover (over time). If you do get it on the paintwork, just wash off with water immediately.

I hope this helps all of those who read this advice.

Please vote if you liked it !!!

And happy motoring.............

Depends on what the "fluid" is. If it is brake fluid or gasoline or coolant you have a serious problem that must be fixed immediately. Gasoline is expensive and a fire hazard. Brake fluid implies that the brake system needs attention. If it is coolant and the vehicle has a rear heater there could be a leak in the heater core or the lines that run from the engine compartment to it. If it is plain ordinary water and the vehicle has rear air conditioning it is just the condensate that is produced when the rear air conditioner runs. It is normal and is no cause for concern.

first what colour is the fluid and the drip will always come from the lowest contact point follow the drip line and you shud find your problem it wud be helpful to know what make of car and wut color the fluid is

Uses 1 washer jar up front for both front and rear. Hope this helps