What is causing my steering gear box to rip through the frame? Or is it even the steering box at all?

Possible that the steering gear box may have been damaged. Also the a frame and strut may be causing the problem. Best to have a qualified garage do the work.

I can't tell you the exact process but I can offer a few pointers.

A complete adjustment of a steering box is almost as complex as a lot of other gear work including the rear axle - much of the technique and technical principle is similar. A complete adjustment should not be undertaken lightly by the inexperienced. Careful examination of the components and accuracy of adjustment is essential.
Adjusting a worn steering gear can be counter-productive as the finished item can have "tight" spots resulting in over-correction of the steering by the driver with the characteristic weaving along the road.

A selection of shims will be needed, some (homemade) special tools, an accurate spring balance or a very accurate torqometer covering the range of 0 - about 20 inch-pounds and a repair manual.

There are different types of steering box - recirculating ball, worm-and-peg, worm-and-segment...
The former is the best but the most complex and is almost exclusively to be found on luxury cars and the latter type is mostly found in the vintage car parc and the worm-and-peg type is probably the most commonly found.

Mostly people only wish to adjust the "lash" of the steering gear to eliminate the free play at the steering wheel and the typically vague feel.

Many steering boxes have a screw and locknut on the cover in order to adjust the lash and preload the peg and worm, etc. but if significant wear has taken place, the steering will be too stiff in operation and the lash will still be present. For the inexperienced it is important not to use the "trial-and-error" method of adjustment but to disconnect the steering drag link and to make the adjustment while checking the preload using the prescribed method at the steering wheel.

For steering boxes without the adjusting screw it will be necessary to remove the cover and to select a shim to remove in order to adjust the lash.

As a matter of interest, excess lash is often caused or partly caused by the steering box retaining bolts loosening or the chassis weakening due to fatigue cracking or rusting. Closely inspecting the area of the mountings while an assistant loads the steering by turning the steering wheel left and right fairly rapidly by between a quarter and half a turn.

I hope this helps.

If I remember correctly U have 2 pull gear box completely off the frame 2 replace the pitman are, kind of a pain & make sure Ur steering wheel is centered when U reinstall it back on gear box.

If the weld is done properly, it will penetrate through to the other side, All the grease, oil, contaminants must be removed before the weld is made. I mean ALL the contaminants! Then, with a drill motor and a wire brush scrub it thoroughly. blow it off with compressed air and wash it with acetone. I would do everything I could to ensure the back side is every bit as clean, Pressure washing is good. And, of course, remove the steering gear. If the holes are distorted, hammer them flat.

it will start to rust immediately. So, do this right before welding. Then, wire brush it again and paint it with rustoleum, undercoat or something of that nature, Good luck!

You will have to pull the steering gear box that the pitman arm is attached to completely off to change it. Sorry for the bad news. The bolts go through the drivers side of the frame. You will have to take the power steering lines and upper steering shaft off as well. Be sure to try and lock the steering wheel in such a way that it does not turn on you. If it does, you could break the clock spring for the air bag in the steering wheel and set the air bag light on. After you get the gear box out it is smooth sailing! Don't forget to fill the power steering fluid when you are done before you start the truck or you could burn up the power steering pump.
Hope this helps. Good luck!

Power Steering Gear
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle, allowing the front suspension to hang
   freely.
   
2. Remove both front tire and wheel assemblies.
   CAUTION
   Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft
   from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear
   and/or intermediate shaft. This damage may cause a loss of steering control and
   possibly, personal injury.
   NOTE: The wheels of the vehicle must be straight ahead and the
   steering column in the LOCK position before disconnecting the steering column or
   intermediate shaft from the steering gear. Failure to do so will cause the SIR
   coil assembly to become uncentered, which will damage the coil.
   
   
   
   
3. If equipped, move the intermediate shaft cover upward, then unfasten the
   intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
   
4. Using a suitable puller, separate both tie rod ends from the steering
   knuckles.
   
5. Position a suitable drain pan under the power steering fluid lines. Remove
   the power steering fluid line retainer, then disconnect the outlet and inlet
   hoses from the steering gear. Allow the fluid to drain, then plug the lines to
   avoid contaminating the system.
   
   
   
   
   
   Fig. 1: Power steering fluid line routing - non-supercharged
   engine shown
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   Fig. 2: Power steering gear inlet hose orientation -
   non-supercharged engines
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   Fig. 3: Power steering hose routing and orientation -
   supercharged engine shown
   
   
   
   
   
6. Remove the steering gear assembly-to-chassis mounting bolts.
   
7. Support the body with suitable jackstands to allow for the lowering of the
   frame.
   
8. Loosen the front frame mounting bolts.
   
9. Remove the rear frame bolts, then lower the rear of the frame about 3 inches
   (76mm).
   WARNING
   Do not lower the frame too far, or you could
   damage the engine components nearest the cowl.
   
   
   
10. Remove the steering gear assembly by maneuvering it through the left wheel
    well opening.
    
    
    
    
    
    Fig. 4: Power steering gear mounting, with retainer tightening
    sequence and specifications
    
    
    To install:
    
    
11. Install the rack and pinion assembly into the vehicle, maneuvering it
    through the left wheel well opening.
    
12. Raise the rear of the frame, then install the frame bolts and tighten to 76
    ft. lbs. (103 Nm).
    
13. Install the rack and pinion assembly-to-chassis bolts. Tighten the rack
    mounting bolts to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm).
    
14. Remove the jackstands.
    
15. Apply Loctite® thread locking kit 1052624, or equivalent thread locking
    compound to the steering gear mounting bolts.
    
16. Install the steering gear mounting bolts, and washers, then tighten the
    retainers to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) in the sequence shown in the accompanying
    figure.
    
17. Unplug and attach the power steering gear outlet and inlet hoses, then
    tighten the fittings to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
    
18. Install the power steering fluid line retainer.
    
19. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the nuts to 35
    ft. lbs. (47 Nm). Install a new cotter pin. Tighten the nut up to an additional
    1?6 turn,
    or to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) to align the cotter pin slot. Do not loosen the nut to
    install the cotter pin.
    
20. Install the intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt and tighten to 35
    ft. lbs. (47 Nm). If equipped, move the intermediate shaft cover upward into
    position.
    
21. Install both front tire and wheel assemblies, then carefully lower the
    vehicle.
    
22. Refill the power steering pump reservoir, then bleed the power steering
    system and check for leaks.
    
23. Take the vehicle to a reputable repair shop and have the front end alignment
    checked and adjusted as necessary.

1999 F250 diesel. POwer steering fluid "pours" out of the trk when the steering wheel is turned. Does not leak when at rest, fluid coming out between the steering box and frame....is the a hose inbetween there or is it a possible cracked box (bolts are tight on frame)

First of all, lets look at the obvious. When installing a tire that large the tendency of the tire is to follow every crack and crevice in the road. By raising it up you totally change the steering geometry. This being said, it may still not be the problem. I have run tall tire with lift kits for years.
Take a look at the steering box where it mounts to the frame. Larger tires have a tendency to put more pressure on the steering gear box. It can range from causing the mounting bolts to loosen to causing small cracks in the frame. If the steering gear box moves even in the slightest it will be practically impossible to hold in the road.
Another possibility is worn piston seals inside the steering gear box. When they leak, or bypass, the gear box becomes sluggish and you will find yourself chasing it all over the place.
Ed

It is very important to take this back and have it looked at by the shop that did the repair. The steering box would come pre-adjusted. I'm afraid they may have left something loose...it happens. Try phoning them, they may even want to tow it or send someone out to check it. Driving with the steering box coming unbolted from the frame would be tricky.

You'll have to weld a piece of flat iron with mounting holes pre-drilled, on to the frame, or if the frame where it broke isn't too bad, maybe just pound it flat, and weld the cracks and grind them . Then be sure to put some large washers on it, and lock washers. Somebody must have had that off at one time, and didn't tighten the bolts enough.