Is the driver side fender welded or bolted on?

It is really a job for a body shop. Thy can also stretch out bent metal.


..

study the new fender and where there is a bolt hole then that is where you will find the bolts to remove on the old fender . They will normally be along the top inside , at the bottom near the door and around the bumper and up the panel that the door hinges are attached to

First the door panel must be removed,then you can tell what part is broken.It will probably be the window trac assy.To replace that you must drill out the 3/16 rivets that hold it in and then replacethem with 1/4 -20 bolts on re-assembly.

You are correct it is connected with two plastic elbows the will almost always break when you remove the assem. If you have removed all the bolts you should be able to wiggle and work it loose by gently prying on it, just look at the direction of the elbows and work it in that direction, but i highly reccomend replacing both elbows.

It's on the bottom left side of the engine at the fglywheel. It is round and about a foot long. Follow the large red power wire down to it.

While all those parts are available, if there is really that much damage i'd say you may be better off looking for a new car. The doors and front fender bolt on, but the rear quarter panel is spot welded in MANY spots requiring a lot of work to properly replace. You will probably find the best overall deals at the local bone yards. You may be tempted to buy parts online but keep in mind shipping those heavy parts can cost as much as the part. You can use a site such as copartfinder.com to locate a junkyard near by that has the parts you need.

If it's bolted on, check the top hinge bolt for being loose. there is an adjustment slot the bolt can slide in. It's a easy fix. If it's welded on check the top hinge weld behind the fender. Mine came apart at that spot (previos owner rewelded prior to my ownership). You will need to remove the fender to get in there to weld. The hinge is thicker than the sheet metal it's attached to.

Can you remove the wheel well splash shield and get access to the bolts? Body shop techs have a special tool to get into this area.

Here's a 97 Probe whcih was the same as a 626 in 1997:

Fender, Front Removal

1. On GT models, remove the side sill extension. Refer to Section 01-08 for the removal and installation procedure.
   

1. Remove the front fender bolt located in the door jamb opening.
   
   
   RH Side Shown, LH Side Similar
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the three upper front fender bolts located on top of the front fender (16005) inside the engine compartment.
   

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
   

1. Remove the wheel (1007).
   

1. Remove one push pin and five front fender splash shield bolts and remove the front fender splash shield (16102).
   

1. Remove the upper front fender brace screw.
   

1. Remove the inner front fender bolt.
   

1. Remove the screw holding the front bumper cover (17D957) to the front fender.
   

1. Remove the two lower front fender bolts.
   

1. Remove the front fender.
   

Installation
To install, reverse the removal procedure. Tighten the front fender bolts to 7-9 Nm (61-86 lb-in).

The front fenders are connected to the A pillar above the the top hinge, at the bottom of the rocker panel seam, three bolts pass through the hood hinge support in the middle of the fender, four bolts on the radiator support, three vertical bolts on the top radiator brace, and one bolt at the rear of the wheelhouse to the cab body. Yes, the wheelhouse is spot welded to the fender and must be removed with it. Remove all the bolts listed as well as the bolts retaining the splash shield. The splash shield is a plastic liner connected to both the wheelhouse and the fender. Remove the headlight/cornering lamp assembly. The best way I have found to do this is to loosen the bumper to framebrackets and let the bumper assembly sag to gain clearance. If the upper bumper cover is removed to gain the clearance needed you will more than likely need to get a new cover as the nylon clips have a tendency to break during removal. Once the fender/wheelhouse assembly has been removed use a spot weld cutter to separate the wheelhouse from the old fender. Check the new fender for clearance and fit on the vehicle. Make all the needed adjustments to get the fender to fit correctly. Remove the fender and attach the wheelhouse. This should be done by spot welding. It can also be done using bolts. If using bolts place some 3M double stick weather strip adhesive tape in the seam to prevent direct contact of the parts to prevent rattles and squeaks. Drill the new fender to match the holes made by the spot weld cutter in the wheelhouse. Use stainless bolts and lock nuts so that the assembly can be services if needed. I would also recommend using Wurth Rust Inhibitor on all the seams to prevent rust and once cured it is an excellent adhesive and will reduce noise coming from moving body panels. Good Luck. It is not as bad as it sounds. Take your time and it will be worth the effort.