How to bleed n Clutch system on Ford Bantam 1.3

SOURCE: im having difficulty in bleeding a cluch o a ford

clutch systems bleed just like brakes, if you have an external leak at the clutch master cylinder, then bleeding will be difficult, it should be replaced. I use a two person bleeding system, I fill the master, crack the bleeder screw open and have my 2nd push the clutch down and hold it, then I close the bleeder and tell my 2nd to release the pedal, repeat until no air is present.

SOURCE: 1996 Ford Ranger XLT Clutch Bleeding

The problem is up at the Master Cyl............It comes ou of the firewall and points DOWN at about a 45 deg angle.....The reservoir is remote and the hose is set to the lowest point of the cyl...........The tube TO the slave is 180 deg around facing bottom...........
Take the master cly OFF the firewall.......tilt it so that both inlet and outlet are the HIGHEST point of the cyl........Gravity bleed or vacula the slave.........then reinstall the master
I know it sounds like a lot of work but it's the easiest way to clear the air out of Ranger/Explorer hydraulics

SOURCE: replaced slave cylinder 2004 ford ranger 4x4 still no pedal

I had the same problem with my 1995 1500 p.u.. Assuming your clutch slave cylinder is the concentric style. If not disregard. I hate that set up. what the hell was wrong with the old outside of the bell housing slave/ mechanical style fork and throw out bearing bla bla? Its because ford as well of the rest of the lovely auto makers decided long ago to make them as hard as hell to repair on you own. Ive been told theres a spsecial tool just for this bleeding task. Pobably. They make those tools to sell to us so they can further profit from us poor suckers.Also I wonder on your model if its concentric, does it have the difficult sized bleeder valve as mine did? or have they gotten a little more user friendly? doubt it. In my case as this style is a closed system I followed the bleeding intructions to a tee. That did get alot more clutch action for me, after 15 attempts.However I do believe the problem after looking and further inspection under the dash? look up under the dash and inspect your pedal rack and frame. I found mine was cracked and the cause of poor aliegnment. check for that rite away. I located another rack but before I got around to replacing it, the tranny blew, and the trucks sitting on my dads property. Its still a danmed good truck and one of these days I will get on it again. Anyway up untill the tranny blew I was never able to get more than half the distance from the pedal and besides the rack problem I would love to know the bleeding anser, that is if Im off target. Going to be up against it again when I replace that transmission. Hope this helps a little. Food for thought maybe? If you find out something more helpful post it so I will know too.

SOURCE: need step by step on how to bleed hydrolic clutch on a 1996 ford ranger

First remove the clutch reservoir top. Make sure the rubber stopper/bladder is in the cap when removed. Next locate the clutch line that goes into the tranny just aft of the bell housing. There should be a bleed screw, if so open it slightly. If no screw, than loosen the line where it attatches in. Next fill the clutch reservoir and watch till it leaks out on the tranny end. Once thats noticed, close the screw/line and recap reservoir. pump clutch pedal, and repeat bleed steps at least once more to ensure all air is out. remember to fill clutch fluid up to operating levels.

SOURCE: i have A 1998 FORD RANGER EXT. CAB W/ 6 CYL.- 4.0

Take the top off the master cyl and slowly very slow push in on the clutch and watch for any bubbles comming up.Replace the top and pump pressure and bleed at the master direct by using the lines for bleeders.