How do I reassembly the check strap on my 99 tahoe?

You have to be careful of pulling up at an angle because the body is so low on these, if you can go in a couple feet and there are holes in the frame above the axle area. But you have to make sure you are clear of the body. If you can't do that try wrapping around the axle clear of lines and tire, as long as you are not lifting it by this you can pull no problem

The switch is attached to the brake pedal. Remove the wiring connector and the switch will either have a clip securing it or will be held in place with a plastic bushing. If a plastic bushing is used, a gentle pull will be needed to remove the switch. Install in reverse order and check brake light operation for switch operation/adjustment

If your talking about the plastic pieces that go between the leaf springs. Go to a place the sells or custom makes leaf springs. You know you have to remove and separate the springs to get them in place, right. Two bolts and two metal straps hold the springs in place.

Good afternoon,

From my previous experience and knowledge you will nomal get lick a cracking and knocking when opening the door this is due to worn check strap centre bush.
In some cases you can just replace the bush but depending on how long its been like it I have found with some commodores when you loosen the bolt they tend to break .So I would recommend you change the whole check strap ,bush and bolt assembly.
if you go the the front a pillar and open the door you will see the top and bottom hinges approx. half way up you will see then plate with a 10mm bolt through it attach to the a pillar.
1.remove the 10mm bolt an nut.this end will then come away from a pillar.
2.fully open door on the other end of check strap you will find to 10mm nuts remove these and check strap will be removable.
3.please remove the door will have no tension.
4.fit new check strap to inside of door.
5.then slow close door so you can align the check strap with a pillar bracket once this is done .
6.fit 10mm bolt and nut and tighten do not over tighten .
7.open and close door cracking noise will be gone ..
hope this helps you

The easy way? Goliath it- just rip it off !
Panels are held by several screws and plastic push pins. The screws may be covered by little rectangular snap covers. Pry off the covers to access the screws. One screw should be behind the inner door handle, holding a piece of trim there. Radio speakers are held on by screws, and so might be the trim piece over the speaker. Remove all screws first, check carefully for any hidden ones. Door pulls or armrests may have larger screws holding them fast. The plastic pins are usually around the lower perimeter and up along the sides. Slip a putty knife or thin screwdriver behind the panel and near each pin to pop them out of the frame. Check for anything else holding the panel, like outside mirror screws that go through the panel. When you have the panel all loose, lift out and up from the bottom to clear the window channel. Unplug electrical connections and panel should be free. The plastic water shield is held to door frame by adhesive. Peel it off and save for reapplying. Without that plastic sheet, moisture can get to electrical connections, and mold can start ruining the inside of the door panel.

General Description
The front suspension allows each wheel to compensate for changes in the road surface without affecting the opposite wheel. Each wheel independently connects to the frame with a steering knuckle, ball joint assemblies, and upper and lower control arms.
The control arms specifically allow the steering knuckles to move in a three-dimensional arc. Two tie rods connect to steering arms on the knuckles and an intermediate rod. These operate the front wheels.
The two-wheel drive vehicles have coil chassis springs. These springs are mounted between the spring housings on the frame and the lower control arms. Double, direct acting shock absorbers are inside the coil springs. The coil springs attach to the lower control arms and offer ride control.
The upper part of each shock absorber extends through the upper control arm frame bracket. This bracket has two grommets, two grommet retainers, and a nut.
A spring stabilizer shaft controls the side roll of the front suspension. This shaft is mounted in rubber bushings that are held by brackets to the frame side rails. The ends of the stabilizer shaft connect to the lower control arms with link bolts. Rubber grommets isolate these link bolts. Rubber bushings attach the upper control arm to a cross shaft. Frame brackets bolt the cross shaft.
A ball joint assembly is riveted to the outer end of the upper control arm. A rubber spring in the control arm assures that the ball seats properly in the socket. A castellated nut and a cotter pin join the steering knuckle to the upper ball joint.
The inner ends of the lower control arm have pressed-in bushings. The bolts pass through the bushings and join the arm to the frame. The lower ball joint assembly is a press fit in the lower control arm and attaches to the steering knuckle with a castellated nut and a cotter pin.
Ball socket assemblies have rubber grease seals. These seals prevent entry of moisture and dirt and damage to the bearing surfaces.
Four-wheel drive models have a front suspension that consists of the control arms, a stabilizer bar, a shock absorber, and right and left torsion bars. The torsion bars replace the conventional coil springs. The lower control arm attaches to the front end of the torsion bar. The rear end of the torsion bar mounts on an adjustable arm at the crossmember. This arm adjustment controls the vehicle trim height.
Two-wheel drive vehicles have tapered roller sheel bearings. These bearings are adjustible and need lubrication.
Four-wheel drive models and RWD Utilities have sealed front-wheel bearings. These bearings are pre-adjusted and need no lubrication.
Heat treatment may create darkened areas on the bearing assembly. This discoloration does not signal a need for replacement.
Hope this helps?

REMOVAL

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove sight shield.
3. Remove module bracket.
4. Disconnect No. 6 spark plug wire to prevent damage to wire.
5. Remove radiator fan shroud assembly.
6. Remove top RH isolated radiator mount bracket.
7. Remove remote air cleaner.
8. Remove ignition coil.
9. Disconnect electrical connector on power steering pressure switch at steering gear.
10. Remove pressure switch to allow for tool clearance.
11. Remove screw at pressure switch and return line bracket.
12. Remove anti rattle clips from power steering lines.
13. Remove plastic strap attaching steering gear heat shield to power steering return line.
14. Remove plastic strap attaching lines to transfer tube on the steering gear.
15. Disconnect Electronic Vacuum Regulator (EVR) valve wire.
16. Remove the ground wire from back of engine block.
17. Remove pressure line fitting at power steering pump using a 5/8 inch flare nut wrench.
18. Loosen clamp and remove return line at pump.
19. Loosen clamps and remove return line at power steering oil cooler.
20. Remove pressure line fitting (gold in color) at steering gear, using an 18mm open end wrench.
21. Remove return line fitting (silver in color) at steering gear, using an 18mm open end wrench.
22. Loosen two screws retaining power steering oil cooler to sub frame.

Bushings are thick rubber or urethane plastic that cushion metal parts for noise and flexibility. Spings are metal and coil or leaf (layered flat steel). Spring bushings in leaf spings are in the cylindrical ends of the leaf springs where they attach and pivot at the frame of the vehicle...

First contact your dealer as Ford has a recall on that year model fuel filter, it is an inline tyep on the frame rail that requires wrenches to replace. You can get them at any parts house but check with your dealer about the recall first, might get for for free!

SUSPENSION REASSEMBLY
1. Apply the specified grease to the inside of the left suspension.
2. Using special tools (09555-21100, 09555-21000), drive bushings, into the suspension arm.

CAUTION
1) Apply grease to all outside surfaces of bushings.
2) Drive bushing in until the notch on the special tool
(09555-21000) reaches the end of the suspension arm.
3. When replacing the dust cover, insert a new one up to the center position (stopper) of the right suspension arm.
4. After applying grease to the surface of the right suspension arm, install the rubber stopper.
5. Slowly push the right and left suspension arms together. Wipe away the surplus grease. Align the marks on the stabilizer bar and the stabilizer bar bracket.
6. Install the rubber bushings, fixtures and washers.
7. After aligning the fixtures with the suspension arms according to the alignment marks, loosely tighten the nuts.

CAUTION
1) Install the washers and fixtures in the correct direction
and position as shown.
2) Tighten the nut to specification with the vehicle lowered
to the floor.

8. Pack grease in the dust cover and lips, and secure the dust cover with the clamp.