REPLACING FRONT WHEEL BEARING AND HUB

Hi if you look on utube there is a vidio takeing you through the prosedure,hope this was some help,all the best.

the front wheel bearing hub?
XL-7 (the dash matters)
my wild guess, is the questions was
what are all steps to do this job. and tools.
that?
RTM?

https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/10056-2002-grand-vitara-xl-7-service-manual.aspx

http://www.fixkick.com/hubs/FW_BEARINGS.html#newer
the link shows all years, and variances.

here is a photo review, that is accurate up to
1998, and beyond , if you skip the bearing service parts. as yours are INTEGRATED
and NON-serviceable.
http://www.fixkick.com/hubs/FW_BEARINGS.html


the photo 6a and B
shows removing the hub,
so do that , buy a new hub and put it back
the same way, using the tool stated
at the stated ranges of torque
123-180 ft/lbs.
this range allows you to get the screws into the locking rings.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Except Miata FRONT

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Steering knuckle from the vehicle
   • Inner oil seal from the knuckle
3. Using Mazda Hub Puller tools 49 G033 102, 49 G033 104 and 49 G033 105, pull the front wheel hub from the knuckle assembly.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Bearing inner race from the front wheel hub
   • Retaining ring from within the knuckle
   • Front wheel bearing from the knuckle, using the hub puller tools
   • Brake dust shield
5. Clean and inspect all parts but do not wash or clean the wheel bearing. The bearing must be replaced. To install:
   
6. Using Mazda Press tools 49 G033 107 and 49 H026 103, install a new dust shield cover assembly to the knuckle.
7. Using the press tools, press a new wheel bearing into the knuckle assembly.
8. Install or connect the following:
   • Wheel bearing retaining ring
   • New oil seal using Installation tool 49 V001 795
   • Front wheel hub using the Mazda press tools

REAR

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section. NOTE: The wheel bearings are not serviceable. If the bearings are bad, a new hub/bearing assembly must be installed.
   
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Rear wheels Fig. 1: Exploded view of the rear wheel hub and bearing assembly (disc brake model shown, drum is similar)
     
     
   • Brake drum, if equipped
   • Rear caliper and rotor assembly from the hub, if equipped
   • Hub dust cover
3. Raise the staked portion of the hub retaining nut with a hammer and chisel.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Hub retaining nut and discard it
   • Hub and bearing assembly from the spindle Fig. 2: When installing the new hub nut, be sure to stake it into the notch on the spindle
     
   To install:
   
5. Install or connect the following:
   • Bearing assembly on the spindle. Torque the new nut to 131-173 ft. lbs. (177-235 Nm)
   • Stake the nut into the groove in the spindle
   • Dust cover
   • Assemble the brakes
   • Rear wheel

Hub and Bearing Removal & Installation NOTE: The removal and installation of the wheel bearing and hub from the steering knuckle is only to be done with the steering knuckle removed from the vehicle
To Remove:

1. Remove the steering knuckle and hub and bearing assembly.
2. Remove a wheel lug stud from the hub flange using a C-clamp and Adapter Tool 4150A or equivalent.
3. Rotate the hub to align the removed lug stud with the notch in the bearing retainer plate. Use a proper C-clamp and adapter tool to press out one of the lug studs
   
   Rotate the hub in order to remove the lug stud
   
   
4. Rotate the hub so the stud hole is facing away from the brake caliper's lower rail on the steering knuckle.
5. Install ½ of a Bearing Splitter Tool 1130 or equivalent between the hub and the bearing retainer plate. The threaded hole in this ½ is to be aligned with the caliper rail on the steering knuckle.
6. Install the remaining pieces of the bearing splitter on the steering knuckle. Hand-tighten the nuts to hold the splitter in place on the knuckle. Proper installation of the bearing splitter
   
   
7. When the bearing splitter is installed, be sure the 3 bolts attaching the bearing retainer plate to the knuckle are contacting the bearing splitter. The bearing retainer plate should not support the knuckle or contact the splitter.
8. Place the steering knuckle in a hydraulic press, supported by the bearing splitter. Properly support the steering knuckle for hub and bearing removal
   
   
9. Position a driver on the small end of the hub. Using the press, remove the hub from the wheel bearing. The outer bearing race will come out of the wheel bearing when the hub is pressed out of the bearing.
10. Remove the bearing splitter tool from the knuckle.
11. Place the knuckle in a press supported by the press block. The blocks must not obstruct the bore in the steering knuckle so the wheel bearing can be pressed out of the knuckle. Place a driver on the outer race of the wheel bearing, and then press the bearing out of the knuckle.
12. Install the bearing splitter on the hub. The splitter is to be installed on the hub so it is between the flange of the hub and the bearing race on the hub. Place the hub, bearing race and splitter in a press. Use a driver to press the hub out of the bearing race.

To Install:

1. Use clean, dry cloth to wipe and grease or dirt from the bore of the steering knuckle.
2. Clean the rust preventative from the replacement wheel bearing using a clean, dry towel.
3. Place the new wheel bearing into the bore of the steering knuckle. Be sure the bearing is placed squarely into the bore. Place the knuckle in a press with a receiver tool, C-4698-2 or equivalent supporting the steering knuckle. Place a driver tool on the outer race of the wheel bearing. Press the wheel bearing into the steering knuckle until it is fully bottomed in the bore of the steering knuckle. NOTE: Only the original or original equipment replacement bolts should be used to mounting the bearing retainer to the knuckle. If a bolt requires replacement when installing the bearing retainer plate, be sure to get the proper type of replacement.
   
4. Install the bearing retainer plate on the steering knuckle. Install the 3 bearing retainer mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 21 ft-lbs (28 Nm).
5. Install the removed wheel lug stud into the hub flange.
6. Place the hub with the lug stud installed, in a press supported by Adapter Tool C-4698-1 or equivalent. Press the wheel lug stud into the hub flange until it is fully seated against the back side on the hub flange.
7. Place the steering knuckle with the wheel bearing installed, in a press with special Receiver Tool MB-990799 or equivalent supporting the inner race of the wheel bearing. Place the hub in the wheel bearing, making sure it is square with the bearing. Press the hub into the wheel bearing until it is fully bottomed in the wheel bearing.
8. Install the steering knuckle and the wheel.
9. Check and/or adjust the front alignment.

Yes you can try replace it

What you need to do is go to an auto parts store such as AutoZone. Then buy the Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly-Front it runs around $150. Once you have the part you need to take off the Caliper and rotor.
Then you need a 36 mm socket to take off the cv nut. You will need a breaker bar if you don't have a tourque wrench, but remove the nut. Then take a hammer and punch, and place the punch on the cv axle and try to knock it through the hub, pushing the cv axle into the boot a little.
Do not pull the hub off before loosening it from the cv axle, that could cause you to have to replace the axle boot. Once you got the cv axle free take the 3 bolts off the back of the hub. If you can't get to the 3 bolts behind the hub you can take the 2 bolts out of the top of the strut and that will give you more room. I was able to keep the strut bolts in.
Once the bolts are out it may be hard to remove the hub. I had to use a lot of WD 40 and a brass hammer to get it off. However, most auto parts stores will rent you a tool that will help you take it off, the same tool will also help with getting the hub free from the cv axle if the hammer and punch did not work. Once removed put the new one on. Makes sure you put some lithium grease on everything before installation.

not too bad a job, the hubs are sealed bearing units and replace in one piece. The stabilizer is a cinch just get both front wheels the same height off the ground, so the bar will be unloaded, and un bolt it.

NOTE: After the wheel bearings have been removed or replaced or the front axle has been reassembled be sure to adjust wheel bearing preload. Refer to the Adjustment service procedure below. On the 1989–92 240SX there is just one wheel bearing, pressed into the hub and no adjusting cap. Refer to the exploded views of the Front Axle Hub Assembly. Review the complete service procedure.

1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
2. Remove the front wheels and the brake caliper assemblies. NOTE: Brake hoses do not need to be disconnected from the brake caliper assemblies. Make sure the brake hoses are secure and do not let caliper assemblies hang unsupported from the vehicle.
   
3. Work off center hub cap by using thin tool. If necessary tap around it with a soft hammer while removing.
4. Pry off cotter pin and take out adjusting cap and wheel bearing lock nut.
5. Remove wheel hub with disc brake rotor from spindle with bearings installed. Remove the outer bearing from the hub.
6. Remove inner bearing and grease seal from hub using long brass drift pin or equivalent.
7. If it is necessary to replace the bearing outer races, drive them out of the hub with a brass drift pin and mallet.
8. Install the outer bearing race with a tool (KV401021S0 special tool number) until it seats in the hub flush. NOTE: Place a large glob of grease into the palm of one hand and push the bearing through it with a sliding motion. The grease must be forced through the side of the bearing and in between each roller. Continue until the grease begins to ooze out the other side through the gaps between the rollers. The bearing must be completely packed with grease.
   
9. Pack each wheel bearing with high temperature wheel bearing grease. Pack hub and hub cap with the recommended wheel bearing grease up to shaded portions. Refer to the illustration.
10. Install the inner bearing and grease seal in the proper position in the hub.
11. Install the wheel hub with disc brake rotor to the spindle.
12. Install the outer wheel bearing, lock washer, wheel bearing lock nut, adjusting cap, cotter pin (always use a new cotter pin and O-ring for installation after adjustment), spread cotter pin then install the O-ring and dust cap.
13. Install the brake caliper assemblies and bleed brakes if necessary. Install the front wheels.

Hub and Bearing Assembly
CAUTION: Do not begin this removal procedure unless the following parts are available:

• A new front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477) (Step 1).
• A new inboard halfshaft joint stub shaft circlip.

Once removed, these parts must not be reused during assembly. Their torque holding ability or retention capability is diminished during removal.
Removal

1. Turn ignition switch to the OFF position and place the steering column in the unlock position.
   

1. CAUTION: Discard the front axle wheel hub retainer. It is a torque prevailing design and cannot be reused. If loosened, the retainer must be removed and a new one installed.
   Remove and discard front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477).
   

1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
   

1. NOTE: Make sure steering column is in the unlocked position, and do not use a hammer to separate tie rod end (3A130) from the front wheel knuckle (3K185) . Use extreme care not to damage boot seal.
   
   Remove cotter pin from tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut. Discard cotter pin and nut.
   

1. Using Tie Rod End Remover 211-001 (TOOL-3290-D) or equivalent and Tie Rod End Remover Adapter 211-087 (T81P-3504-W), remove tie rod end from front wheel knuckle.
   

1. CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to remove the nut, or bearing and seal damage will result. Loosen the nut first, then remove nut from stud using the hex hold feature.
   For SHO vehicles, remove vinyl cover from upper link stud.
   Remove stabilizer bar link (5K484) from front shock absorber (18124) .
   

1. Remove disc brake caliper (2B120) and support with wire to obtain working space. Do not allow disc brake caliper to separate from the front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) to prevent contamination of the disc brake guide pin journals. Do not allow disc brake caliper to hang from front brake hose (2078) . Remove front disc brake rotor (1125) . Remove front disc brake rotor from wheel hub (1104) by pulling it off the lug bolt (1107). If front disc brake rotor is difficult to remove from front wheel knuckle , strike front disc brake rotor sharply between lug bolt with a rubber or plastic hammer.
   If front disc brake rotor will not pull off, apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A to inboard and outboard rotor/hub mating surfaces. Install 3-Jaw Puller 205-D027 (D80L-1013-A) or equivalent and remove front disc brake rotor by pulling on front disc brake rotor outside diameter and pushing on hub center. If excessive force is required for removal, check front disc brake rotor for lateral runout prior to installation. Refer to Section 06-00.
   

1. Remove anti-lock brake sensor mounting bolt and front brake anti-lock sensor (2C204) .
   

1. Remove and discard lower ball joint nut. Using Remover Adapter 211-211 (T96P-3010-A1), separate lower ball joint from front suspension lower arm (3078) .
   

1. Using Rotunda Spring Compressor 014-00781 or equivalent, compress front coil spring (5310) until lower ball joint clears front suspension lower arm .
   

1. Using Front Hub Remover/Replacer 204-069 (T81P-1104-C), Two Stud Adapter 205-237 (T86P-1104-A1), Metric Hub Remover Adapter 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) and Front Hub Installer 204-067 (T81P-1104-A), press front wheel driveshaft joint (3B414) from wheel hub . Wire front wheel driveshaft joint to body to maintain a level position.
   
   
   
   
   
   Item Part Number Description 1 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) Metric Hub Remover Adapter 2 204-067 (T81P-1104-A) Front Hub Replacer 3 — Turn Wrench Counterclockwise 4 — Hold Wrench Stationary While Turning Other Wrench 5 204-069 (T81P-1104-C) Front Hub Remover/Replacer 6 204-067 (T81P-1104-A)1 Two Stud Adapter A — Make Sure Metric Hub Remover Adapter 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) is Fully Threaded onto 1107 and is Positioned Opposite the Two Stud Adapter 205-237 (T86P-1104-A1)

1. Remove and discard three hub and bearing retainer bolts from front wheel knuckle .
   

1. NOTE: Wheel hub is not pressed into front wheel knuckle . Do not use slide hammer to remove a stuck wheel hub . Do not strike back of inner bearing race. Use of these methods will damage bearing internal parts.
   
   NOTE: If bearing carrier is corroded to front wheel knuckle , apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A to the inboard and outboard wheel hub/knuckle mating surface and allow to soak.
   
   Remove wheel hub from front wheel knuckle .
   
   
   
   
   

Installation

1. NOTE: If wheel hub is damaged or if any end play is detectable, replace wheel hub . End play is not adjustable. If wheel hub is disassembled, the assembly must be replaced.
   
   Remove all foreign material from knuckle bearing bore for correct seating of new wheel hub.
   

1. Lightly lubricate mating surfaces of bearing corner and front wheel knuckle.
   

1. CAUTION: Knuckle bore must be clean enough to allow wheel hub to be completely seated by hand. Do not press or draw wheel hub into place.
   Position wheel hub in front wheel knuckle . Install three new hub and bearing retaining bolts. Tighten to 83-107 Nm (61-78 lb-ft).
   

1. Push front wheel driveshaft joint into wheel hub . Hand start front wheel hub retainer.
   

1. Slowly release Rotunda Spring Compressor 014-00781 or equivalent while guiding lower ball joint into front suspension lower arm .
   

1. Install new lower ball joint nut. Tighten to 68-92 Nm (50-67 lb-ft).
   

1. Install tie rod end into front wheel knuckle . Install new slotted nut and tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). If necessary advance nut to install a new cotter pin.
   

1. CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to tighten nut or bearing and seal damage will result. Install nut using hex hold feature to prevent the stud from rotating.
   Install stabilizer bar link to front shock absorber . Install stabilizer bar link nut. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft). For SHO vehicles, install stud cover.
   

1. NOTE: Remove rust from the rotor and hub mating surfaces with a medium abrasive pad.
   
   Install front disc brake rotor and disc brake caliper . Tighten caliper anchor bracket bolts to 88-118 Nm (65-87 lb-ft).
   

1. CAUTION: The front axle wheel hub retainer must be tightened to specification immediately during installation. If the retainer is not tightened immediately, the nylon lock will set incorrectly, leading to incorrect torque readings and bearing failure. Any front wheel hub retainer that is not immediately tightened to specification or is loosened must be removed and a new retainer installed.
   Install front axle wheel hub retainer . Tighten to 230-275 Nm (170-203 lb-ft).
   

1. Install wheel and tire. Tighten lug nuts (1012) to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
   

1. Lower vehicle.
   

1. Pump brake pedal prior to moving vehicle to position brake linings.
   

Floor jack- jack car up and put a jack stand under it. A tire lug to remove tire. A 36 mm socket to unbolt axle shaft sticking through bearing hub. Next a Brass hammer with a block of wood. Next center wood on axle shaft sticking through bearing hub and hit with a 4lb brass or steel hammer with a wood block on shaft. Next you need a 10mm or 12mm socket on back side of bearing hub should have 3 bolts holding it unbolt. Last use a pry bar and gradually pry bearing out and no there not pressed in like a lot of people think.
(Socket sizes maybe different)
If you take it somewhere it would cost about $800 and up.

those are sealed units and are intergrated with the wheel rotor if the bearings are bad they must be replaced and those are dealer only items. labor for each side is about 1 hour for remove and install per side. unfortunately there are no aftermarket parts available just yet. hope this helps