I assume the left front brake line is leaking because when I apply the brakes, the right front grabs and skids. How difficult or expensive is this to replace?
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check for a leaking wheel cylinder on this side as this can cause sticking and grabbing. it could also be an axle seal leak and differential oil has gotten on the brake shoe and drum. incorrect brake adjustment on this side.
remove and replace the wheel cylinders on both rear wheels as it is generally not a good idea to try and reclaim them. (If one is leaking then the other one will be seeping as well). As there will be oil on the linings it is necessary to replace them as well or you will have grabbing brakes/ no brakes and side skids in heavy braking
Might be a leak somewhere in brake lines. Or some gasket gone bad in brakes (then there is probably a leak as well). If no leak then I assume there is some air in the brake system, sounds like in lines which lead to back brakes so I suggest you bleed back brakes (preferably bleed the whole brake system). In my car (not bolero though) there is some kind of braking power balancing system with extra bleeding screw at the back and this could have air in too. You can find further information how to bleed braking system from your car manual or generally from the Internet. Usual drill is to bleed the furthest brake first then continue until closest brake to your car brake fluid reservoir.
PS: If your brake pedal feels soft and get harder by each push then there is definitely air in the system. If it stays soft you might have a leak.
go in this order-
-make sure the fluid resivoir is full and the cap on
-crack both front bleeders loose and allow them to "gravity bleed"
-once you see fluid constantly dripping out of the bleeder close them
-do the same with the rear
-after you have gravity bled the brakes grab a partner and have them pump the brake 4 to 5 times holding the pedal down on the fifth time
have them say "holding" while you crack the right rear bleeder-once the pedal hits the floor they should say "floor" and hold it there while you tighten the bleeder. repeat until you see nothing but fluid squirt out.
repeat this whole process in this order
right rear
left rear
right front
left front
make sure to continually check the brake fluid level so it doesnt get too low
this should work unless the master cylinder leaked dry from replacing the lines-if this happened you will most likely have to bleed or even replace the master cylinder
May have a leaking right front caliper thats not applying evenly with the left.Look at the front wheels for excess brake dust.The left wheel should have more dust then the right.Also front left rotor may be pitted causing more friction and excess grabbing on the left.Any brake shop will pull the wheel off and inspect the rotor for free.Dont let them try to sell you two rotors or calipers if only one is bad.Replacing both right and left brake pads is OK
Either there is a leak in the lines, or there is air getting in master cylinder. Master cylinder must be bled first thing if it is new, then slave the brakes. You will most likely need to repeat the process a couple times. It would be good to have an electronic bleeder as well
Sounds like it was pulling before the brake job...if so the only thing you didn't replace was the rotors, I assume you turned them? and did you see hard spots on the rotor? discolored area that didn't cut the same......switch the rotors left to right and see if the problem moves or just replace them if they've been cut twice.
Hi elfiallison,
By brakelight I am going to assume you mean the warning indicator on the dash. Not sure if you are planning to do the work yourself or if you are just looking to find out the probable cause. Here are some things to look at to narrow down the exact problem but you are definitely going to need at least a front wheel brake job. I would suggest that you replace the pads, calipers and rotors when doing this since the problem has gone this far.
You most likely have a leaking front caliper that is causing these problems.
Is the brake fluid low in the master cylinder?
Remove the front tires and do a visual inspectioninspection of the braking components.
1) Check for any visable leaks, a leaking caliper will cause the brakes to grab and lock up.
2) Spin the rotors, they should spin freely without grabbing, there will be a slight drag from the brakes. Both sides should be equal. Grabbing rotors can indicate a warped rotor which can also cause the brakes to lock up.
3) Is there plenty of bake pad remaining? You need to have a minimum of 1/4" pad remaining though more is prefered. Low pads can allow the piston to come out of the caliper farther than designed and not allow the piston to retract properly.
If you would like assistance on how to do these repairs just reply to this message and I will help you out.
start from the farthest, right rear, left rear, right front, then left front, take some time in bleeding your left front since it has more air induced during line replacement. good luck!
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