I have a 95 geo prizm and yesterday it died while going down the road and now wont start we tested for fuel problems and that was not it. We changered the starter cuz my husband said it sounded like it wasnt ingauging all the way and with a brand new starter it does less than with the old one.... The engine is turning over and my husband said the lifters are moving and we just replaced to whole distributer today any suggestion

got a 91 with injector in carburator in 95 i think multi port injection so might be fuel preasure regulator

wont crank or will not start.? 2 unique things. no crank always results in , no start (unless you push start the car)
hot wiring the fuel pump relay or any relay in the EFI system , invites
blowing the ECU to kingdom come, bad to the bone that.
I fixed them for 50 years. (electronics controls, so know it !)
you do know its really a toyota right?
what ENGINE? each works different.
my prizm text dump.
89-02
joint venture, GM/toyota with 3 engine used.
1.8L or 1.6L
toy engine, 4aFE, 7AFE or 4AG
open hood look
or use the GM RPO tag
or Use the VIN to find motor used.
for docs?
ebay
search
Geo Prizm factory service manual, Duh?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html;jsessionid=D19D723C2EDB4A9FE12E7C01C0677129?_sacat=0&_nkw=geo+prizm+shop+manual&_nkwusc=geo+prizm+shop+manaul&_rdc=1


does car start with test fuel and run, until the fuel runs out.
do you have fuel pressure, while reading the FSM , way of doing it.
some cars only make fuel pressure, cranking and runing.
other make pressure, for 3 seconds key on, and cranking and running only, and all cars drop pump and injections when ECU sees spark die.
that is why stating which Toyota engine YOU HAVE, helps with diagnosis. and please stop hot wiring your car and learn to use a voltmeter. Ive seen $3000 ECU blown up do to bad mechanics.

, like it ain't gettin fuel; probabley a fuel pump or fuel injecter, fuel filter, something along those lines. Start with the filter its cheapest

A mechanic would check for voltage at the starter, the neutral safety switch (automatic) and the key switch.

Sounds like the battery dies, or the alternator has stopped charging and the battery lasted as long as it could. Battery water, voltage while off and then while running if you can jump it.If you think the battery is good, take the alternator off and take it to the parts store and test it, if it is neither of those 2 , then the computer died. Check it out.

Find the cylinder that is missing,and check the compression on the cylinder.If the miss is not narrowed down to one,or two cylinders,then run a compression test on all the cylinders,if while testing one cylinder,and the gauge fluctuates up and down,then check the one next to it,it it also is doing this,then the head gasket is leaking compression into one another.

check all your relays with an ohmeter to make sure they all operate. A code would go off usually only if it is an electrical problem. If you are getting fuel and fire, and no codes it is most likely a relay. If you did have codes then I would say sensor. So check those relays

Your Fuel pump has Died and will need to be Replaced.

The timing belt may be broken.How many miles are on it and when was the timing belt replaced if ever.Timing belts should be replaced at around 60,000 miles.

use an electrical tester with a sharp point tip, and poke through the coating into the wire at every 5".

this is the best wat to test the wiring.