1998 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup Logo
Posted on Nov 13, 2008
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1998 S-10 Manual Tranny problems

I was reading your response on bleeding the cocentric cyllinder for the hydraulic clutch on a 1998 S-10 and I was wondering if this could be my problem??? My clutch was replaced by a mechanic only 8 months ago and it didn't seem right at first but it seemed to get better so I didn't take it back. Recently, however, it started to sporadically act up. It became difficult at times to engage the clutch and then it would just as quickly fix itself. Now it is completely out of commission. Does it sound like that a quick bleeding could do the trick?

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I had a difficult to bleed clutch on a 1989 S-15. The manual claims removing/ tilting the slave will remove air- but the short hard line used clued me to try another idea. I took a small windshield washer motor and submerged it in the hydraulic bottle and connected a hose from it to the bleeder screw (opened one turn). With the reservoir cap removed, I powered the pump (from vehicle battery) and watched the air bubble out. When the bubbles stopped, I disconnected the pump, closed the valve and had a working clutch. It's called 'reverse bleeding' -easy to do WITHOUT a helper..

  • william vanbergen
    william vanbergen Dec 03, 2017

    was wondering if you could explain this a lil better///???please??T.Y.V.M.

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  • Posted on Nov 13, 2008
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Yes it sure sound like you have an air bubble in the slave cyl.
you must have seen my oil can bleeder
ive also made a new one out of a garden sprayer and adapted down to fit the bleeder screw.1998 S-10 Manual Tranny problems - 66253ce.jpgand this is even faster and makes bleeding simple good luck

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Hi got prob with microbus 2.3i and change gears stationary but not when engine in motion,difficult to do so.thanx

I'd have to check clutch and transmission. If hydraulic clutch, maybe you can bleed it? Is this a manual tranny?
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My friend had clutch replaced 6 mths oago and now clutch is not engaging is there anyway to check hydraulics without removing tranny?

Check clutch fluid level in clutch master cylinder for proper level. You can also watch the slave cylinder move at the transmission where it pushes on the clutch fork. The slave cylinder should move when the clutch pedal is depressed. If the cylinder does not move, suspect a defective master cylinder/slave cylinder/air in system that will require bleeding. If all moves, suspect tranny removal for inspection
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Just replaced hydraulic clutch line a week ago and as I was leaving today I put it in reverse backed out and then when I went to put in in first I wouldn't go and there was a puddle of fluid that's leaking...

Sounds like the "slave Cylinder is leaking. That is the device which the hydraulic line attaches to on the side of the tranny and acts as an actuator for the clutch mechanism
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The gearbox will not select 5th gear (5 speed manual)

Without knowing what kind of car , engine, or year or mileage.... try these one at a time and recheck if problem still exists. Bleed clutch if it is a hydraulic unit or adjust clutch pedal if it is a mechanical clutch first. Next check linkage for missing or worn out bushings causing excess play. Next, Change fluid. Everything after this gets expensive.. used tranny or rebuild with a new clutch. Good Luck.
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Becoming increasingly difficult to select all gears,as if clutch not fully dis-engaging although clutch is working properly

Check to make sure there is not air in the hydraulic system this will cause the slave cylinder to only partially operate thus causing difficulty in shifting gears also check the condition of the slave cylinder itself. Be sure its not leaking. Last but not least the synchronizer in the tranny may be bad cusing the problem.If there is are in the hydraulic system try bleeding the system.
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1994 FORD RANGER STANDARD TRANS CLUTCH WON'T ENGAGE

The only adjustment you'll probably need is to get the air out of the clutch line. Loosen the bleeder screw, and put a two or three foot vacuum line on it. Submerse the other end of the line in a bottle of brake fluid. Pump the clutch untill no more bubbles are coming out of the hose into the bottle. Be sure to keep the reservoir topped up while you do this. Hold the clutch down, and tighten the bleeder screw. Some hydraulic clutches do have an adjustment on the rod that goes from the slave cyllinder to the pressure plate. I'm not sure about yours. If there is a nut on the rod, you can adjust it somewhat. You want it set so that there is just a little bit of play between the rod and the pressure plate where the rod goes. If none of this helps, you mayneed to replace the slave cyllinder.
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CLUTCH

That clutch can bled by using the bleed screw located just aft of the engine/tranny union where the clutch line enters the tranny. Loosen the screw and also loosen the cap on the hydraulic clutch reservoir. watch for fluid trickling out from the transmission end of the line, when this is confirmed, than close the bleed screw, cover the resevoir, make sure theres enough fluid, and pump on the clutch pedal a few times. You can repeat these steps again if necessary to remove and extra air trapped in the system.
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Removal of slave clutch master cylinder

The hydraulic cylinder is in the bell housing. When you separate the motor and tranny, you will see it as a unit with the throw-out bearing. Take the hydraulic line off before you start. You will have to bleed it when you are done.
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