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Anonymous Posted on Apr 04, 2012

Fuel injectors 1999 gmc savana

I own a 1999 gmc savana 3/4 ton van. 4.3 vortec v6. when i purchased it i whent on my first job.. it would not start with 3/4 of a tank of gas in it. i added 2 gallons and it fired rite up.. the next day i replaced the fuel pump and it ran fine and i drove it over 250 mile trip.. after letting it set for 3 days after that it would not start.. it turns over and dies rite out.. i have so far replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, wiring harness, fuel relay, egr valve, fuel pressure regulator.. and i am still having issues.. it will not fire.. if i poor gas directly into the throttle body it will fire up for a few.. wich would infer it is not the motor.. any suggestion?? fuel injection??? electrical??

  • Anonymous Apr 11, 2012

    i have determined that it is the theft deterent system.. security system.. the dealerhip tried to reprogram it and they switched the ignition switch and ignition housing.. took it home did same thing the next morning.. i messed with some stuff got it running.. woke up this morning and it wont start.. does anyone no how to bypass the security system.. theft deterent system. please help..

  • Rand Huls
    Rand Huls Mar 06, 2014

    Check the connectors to the MAF and CrankPositionSensor.

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1 Answer

Daniel Bakewell

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  • Master 691 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 04, 2012
Daniel Bakewell
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A few things to look at
ignition coil
blockage in fuel line,
fuel in the tank contaminated
injectors dirty
injector pump faulty

2 Related Answers

Wes Cichosz

  • 28 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 01, 2012

SOURCE: 1999 gmc savana won't start... new fuel filter, new fuel pump

GMC 1999 Savana..... After a lot of diagnosis and continuous intermitent no-fuel conditions, I discovered it wasn't the connection at the tank but was the large round voltage connector in front of the tank. IT has four wires two of which are for the pump and the other two are for the fuel guage level. I had separated it many times and checked the voltages etc. The contact appeared ok in it, but in fact the contacts had loosed over time and simple didn't make adequate contact. This is why when I pounded on the tank, the pump would seen to kick on. I replaced this connector with a relatively old style four pronge automotive connector, soldered in the wires and never had a problem since. Incidentally it took two fuel pump replacements (thinking that's what the problem was) before I finally found the actual problem. Make sure the rewiring is done properly so that fuel gauge wires and pump wires are correctly soldered and insulated. Also as an fyi, in my third fuel pump replacement I got smart and cut a door in the floor of the truck just above the pump, hinged it, letting the non-hinged end slightly overlap the floor so that in wouldn't collapse into the tank (I actually cut it so it partly rested on the truck bed beam. When cutting the hole in the bed, I placed a large wet bath towel over the pump/tank, used a 4" angle grinder with a steel blade, only let it go through about a 1/4" when cutting, and got it done in a relative short time (5 min). Now testing is really easy and I have no problem with any collapse at all when loading heavy material (I kept the rubber mat connected at one edge and simply flat it over the opening). saves the trouble of removing the tank.

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Anonymous

  • 4803 Answers
  • Posted on May 01, 2011

SOURCE: I have a '93 GMC Vandura 4.3 L. v6 one day it

Well, it sounds to me like you have replaced everything except the MOST LIKELY CAUSE of your problem. Now we're saving money!!!

Please read this article: What Else Could Be Wrong?

After you have done that, throw your Crankshaft Position Sensor away.

Testimonial: "This guy is amazing and doesn't stop until the job is done. "

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