Brakes go to floor i changed master,4 calipers,4 brake hoses, and all pads

On a 2005 vehicle-- at most-- you may need
new rotors & pads,that is all

I'm lost at that story

Don't really grasp what your doing
or what you got yourself into

If I ask any questions-- I feel I will insult you,
so weigh in if you want

Hello Patricia,

Have you checked the master brake cylinder reservoir for brake fluid loss?

I don't suspect the master cylinder as you have replaced it... but am more suspect of a leaking brake line or fitting which should have
been discovered when you had the system bled.

The only time I ever had a rear brake problem with a 2500 series Chevrolet was due to seized rear brake caliper guide pins...as your calipers are also new that is not your problem.

If your brake pedal feels spongy and travels to the floor board you have air in the system, a brake fluid leak or a failure in the power steering system, such as a broken hose, broken power steering pump drive belt, or failed pump, would result in a loss of pressure to both the hydro-boost and steering.

Find more information here:

. Hydro Boost Power Assist Systems Operation Diagnosis and Repair

need a torque wrench, 3/8" drive 1/2" drive sockets, large screwdriver, screw in front caliper compressor, jack, jack stands, fluid catcher (pale), wrench set, etc.

Hope this helps.

They are rather easy to replace, disconnect the brake hose, and remove the caliper as you did replacing the pads. You'll need to then bleed the caliper until clear fluid, with no air bubbles come from the bleeder screw. Check that you don't have a collapsed brake hose, not letting the fluid return to the master cylinder.

How to Replace Brake Pads
(DIY Complexity: Moderate - Time: 2.8 hours)

Parts:
1. Brake Pad Set

Tools:
1. C-Clamp
2. Flat Head Screwdriver
3. Jack Stand Set
4. 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet
5. Combination Wrench Set
6. Tire Iron
7. Socket Set
8. 1/4 in. Drive Torque Wrench
9. Dial Indicator

Supplies:
1. Brake Cleaner
2. Brake Lubricant

Steps:
Step 1 Secure your vehicle on a level surface, making sure your car will not roll or lean too much when jacked up.
o Tip: Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or safety shoes.

Step 2 Remove the cap from the brake master cylinder. Using a turkey baster, remove a quarter of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. Lift up the front of your vehicle using a floor jack.
o Tip: Using an aftermarket floor jack, instead of the original equipment (OE) jack, can make the job easier and safer. Verify the condition of the floor jack before use.

Step 3 Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. The pinch welds and the frame are the two best locations. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working.
o Tip: Try to find a flat, level, and strong surface to put the jack stands.

Step 4 Remove the front wheels by removing the lugs nuts that are holding them on. To do this you will need to find the correct size socket and large ratchet or tire iron and turn them counter clockwise. If your vehicle is equipped with hub caps (plastic covers over the wheels), these will need to be removed to access the lug nuts.
o Tip: It is a good idea to try and break the lug nuts free before you jack the wheels off the ground. This way they you will not spin the front wheels or put stress on the transaxle.
o Tip: Lug nuts fasten the wheel to the hub and may be on very tight. To gain more leverage, use a breaker bar to loosen the nuts.

Step 5 Inspect the brake rotors for scoring, grooves, cracks and discoloration.

Step 6 Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts.

Step 7 Slide the brake caliper off of the brake rotor.
o Tip: If the brake rotors are worn and there is a big lip preventing the brake caliper from sliding off easily, gently pry one pad back into the brake caliper to clear the lip and make removal easier.

Step 8 Support the brake caliper up and away from the working area. Make sure you do not kink or pinch any brake lines. Do not disconnect the brake line.
o Tip: Use a bungee cord to secure the brake caliper out of the way and hang it on the suspension spring.

Step 9 Remove the brake pads from brake caliper.

Step 10 Compress caliper piston using a C-clamp.

Step 11 Install the new brake pads in the brake caliper.

Step 12 Reinstall the brake caliper.

Step 13 Torque the brake caliper mounting bolts to manufacturer’s specifications. Repeat for other side.

Step 14 Install wheels and torque to manufacturer’s specifications.

Step 15 Refill the brake fluid in the brake master cylinder and reinstall the cap.

Step 16 Road test vehicle, break in new pads.
o Tip: To break in pads and rotors refer to manufacturers recommendations. Some companies have different procedures for pad and rotor break in.


Hope this helped (remember comment and rated this).

your power brake booster is blown out
the seal has a leak in it
run the truck for 3 minutes and shut it off. with the windows up listen carefully while you gently apply the brakes
listen for a hissing sound of air leaking.
the sound of these leaking is a very soft sound

jack up front, remover tire, remove bolts on backside of caliper, slide caliper off bracket, remove old pads (paying attention to how they fit in), remove cap on master cylinder under hood, use a caliper tool to push the piton back in, replace pads, put it all back together again....

good luck -- we are here if u need furhter help

When you say it pulls to the left, I am assuming only when the brakes are applied. And if the pull problem was there before you replaced the calipers, it is a problem like a plugged primary brake line from the master cylinder or proportioning valve. The master cylinder could be bad. The new right caliper could be bad. Need to disconnect hoses closer to master cylinder and hit brakes to see if fluid flows good. Then follow hoses down and repeat.

If this happened after the new pads were put on sometimes the pad length is different on the inner and outer pad and both longs on one side will grip more than the 2 short pads on the other side.

If this pulls without brakes on you may have stuck left 4x4.

Many vechicals required maintenance to the brakes. Check your fuilds, usually pedel to floor means lack of fluids and also air in your break lines. Try cleaning grease your pins get the condition up to par. While you have the wheels off have a friend pump the brakes pedal and leave pedal to the floor Bleed your brake line one at a time there is a screw on the caliper release (usually on japan car 10mm screw) and tighten back up repeat proccess two times to brakes all around. Make you should you have brake fuild on hand buy the big bottle DOT3. If this process doesn't help than your would need to replace the master cyclinder, and booster

All you have to do is take the calipers off crack open the bleeder of the side you are working on leave the old pad in the caliper and press the pad in as far as it will go tighten bleeder clean the rotors with brake clean to get the oily substance off they put on during shipping to keep them from rusting put rotor back in place and put new pads in caliper if they give you grease for the caliper sliders put some on the caliper bolts and sliders the thing the bolts go into on the caliper so they move fairly easy this way your brakes will work better and last longer put caliper back in place tighten caliper bolts snug usually with a ratchet like a good 3/8 ratchet then do the other side fill up the master cylinder with proper brake fluid usually dot3 but should say on master cylinder cap bleed brakes if you did just the front bleed the passenger side first pump pedal a few times dont go all the way to the floor have someone open the bleeder on the right front passenger front while holding pedal down with just a little pressure one foot on pedal one under pedal so it dont go to the floor then do the same for the other side check fluid start vehicle if pedal is good go for a test drive and thats it.