1993 Chevrolet K1500 Logo
Anonymous Posted on Mar 30, 2012

I have a similier problem no spark out of the coil. I have replaced the map, erg, dist., Cap, rotor, wires, plugs, iac, tps, both collant sensors, ignition switch, fuel pump, fuel relay, fuel filter, timing is correct. I am at a point of giving up any suggestion on what i could do I have 12v going into the coil but it won't spark? Replaced the ECM and have an extra prom chip but it continues to do the same thing. I'll start it up it will run fine for 5 mins then stall but when i go to start it up once again it will lose spark I'll disconnect the battery for an hour it will regain spark run then die losing spark yet again any suggestion

  • Anonymous Mar 30, 2012

    the timing fine check it earlier today new knock sensor nothing seems to work has just about all new sensor common knowledge it should be running coil has power it get spark runs dies then I will have no spark I'll let it sit over night then it will start run for verious times when it dies i check for spark yet again no spark

  • Anonymous Mar 30, 2012

    I have exchanged the Coil 3 times I know its good it a lifetime warranty it just don't make sense to get spark from the coil it run for a few mins then die check spark from coil nothing let sit for an hour sometimes it will regain spark sometimes it won't when it does starts right up then lose spark and die what controls spark out of the coil it has a new ignition module it came with the distubitor wires from the icm run back to the ECM the ECM has been replaced so has the ignition switch wires from the coil run to the icm and the other run to the ignition switch and the tachometer . Think something could be shorting out my coil but what? In theroy it should be working

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montehammons

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  • Chevrolet Master 5,531 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 27, 2015
montehammons
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Coil or ignition control module.

  • montehammons Mar 27, 2015

    No, of course not, both are new. why didn't somebody tell him to replace the crank sensor, as that was probably it, everything new, wasn't any use to suggest testing before replacing.

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  • Expert 41 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 30, 2012
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2 Related Answers

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Vincent G

  • 2363 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 17, 2009

SOURCE: 91 S10 rough idle, stalling ALDL problems

Make sure there is no vacuum leaks.


Vacuum leak at intake manifold and vacuum hose.

Bad Idle Air Control Motor (IAC)

Low compression (170 psi + is OK)

Start cleaning and repair these trouble spots and see is there any improvement.

====

For more advance DIY'er then you may try this.

Use a can of Berryman carburetor clean to locate the vacuum leak.


SEE SAMPLE PICTURE HERE


This is a 20-30 minutes job.

Vacuum leaks can occur in following locations.


Intake manifold AND/OR vacuum lines.


Intake manifold is not accessible unless the engine head if off.

You can still check the potential leak by spraying some Berryman near the intake manifold.

Listen for rpm increase after you introduce the Berryman (FUEL) at idle.


Do the same starting from the brake booster unit (the round unit) on the drive side fire all.

Carefully listen for increase of RPM right after to spray the Berryman to the potential vacuum spot.

Get a friend to HEAR the RPM increase or monitor for RPM on the tech.

DO NOT AIM the Berryman into any heat source.


PLEASE RATE my answer if it is useful to you.

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on May 19, 2010

SOURCE: 1998 chevy blazer running really rough. It used

I had a similar problem and just happened to unplug the temperature sensor for the computer and the engine started running smooth.
So I replaced the temperature sensor and all was well!

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