My remote door lock control works fine opening the driver door, but does not (with two pushes) open the other doors. Also the horn does not beep when locking the car. The door lock interior switch work perfect. Is their relay or selonoid that is associated with both of these issues?
If remote locks and unlocks driver door but does not unlock passenger doors,then follow the advice above:
Get in the car using the key to unlock the doors. From the passenger
side lock and unlock your doors using the button on the passenger
door. Get out and the remote should now unlock all the doors with 2
presses.
Worked perfectly for me after several other suggestions (and dealer) failed.
One of 2 things. If all your latches work correctly meaning you open the doors and the little lights in the door panels light up, or the dome light lights when set to open door setting then it's not a micro switch in the latch. First try to reset the locks. Get in the car using the key to unlock the doors. From the passenger side lock and unlock your doors using the button on the opassenger door. Get out and the remote should now unlock all the doors with 2 presses.
The horn not beeping but the light flashing in the driver door usually means a signal of a closed door, hood, or trunk is not being triggered. When this happens try to reconize which door you just closed. Notice if you try reopening and reclosing the driver door if the alarm beep is activated. Also notice if the lights in the door panel go out when you close them. If not your looking at a defective microswitch in a door latch that is failing intermittently. Another thing is put the dome light to the open door position. Does it go out each time you close and lock all the doors. Or with the headlight switch on does the warning chime come on with the key on in the ignition with the driver door open and stop when you close the door. If all is working fine open the hood. The hood latch has a switch too. The connector is near the front righ headlamp. (follow the wires from the hood switch) With this connector unplugged you make the vehicle think the hood is closed at all times. Even with the hood open. Now try setting the alarm with all doors closed. Does it work all the time? If yes the hood latch is defective. If that's worknig open the trunk. Push the latch of the trunk as if it was closed manually. Check the light in the trunk always goes out. If not you have a defective trunk latch or wiring problem there. Most common is the driver or front passenger door latch that is defective. Just to find out which one while the problem is present. If you test them while the beep works everything will be fine. You have to test while the beep is not working. Keep me posted.
First back to the hood. With the connector connected and the system armed and the hood closed , with the driver window down pop the hood. The alarm should go off. Now do the same with the trunk switch from inside the car. relock everything and arm the sysstem. With the driver door window open reach inside and use the switch in the door panel to pop the hatch. If the alarm doesn't sound you now know the problem is with the hatch switch in the latch or around there. Once again it could be a broken wire in the harness between the hatch and body of the car or the latch itself not making contact on the microswitch. I would remove the hatch's trim cover and further inspect it. I have seen cases where the rear washer hose leaks into the switch and makes them defective. So make sure no leaks of windsheild washer are present at the same time. Some times it's the motor itself that is leaking at the housing and not the junction.
No need to buy a wiring harness. The radio has a wire attached to the same circuit as the hood latch. If the radio isn't clipped in all the way the microswitch in the radio thinks the radio is being stolen. If the radio is pulled completly out it's as though it's in it's rested position. It's basically a saftey if the alarm is active and someone pull out the radio the alarm will sound. The little metal tabs sometimes stay stuck closed causing the ground to stay active. The wire is brown with a red strip if I'm not mistaken. It's the wire that splices to the same wire on the hood latch. Good job thinking back to what was done to the car, sometimes it's just something some one else did and we forget.
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I had the same problem. I had to pull radio to remove a stuck tape and the horn stopped chipping. A little thumb pressure and all is well.
Thanks
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The reset solution worked, the remote now opens all doors.- Thank you!
Any ideas why the horn beep on locking is erratic, it seems to come and go. It works perfect and then next time no beep.
Thanks again for the response. I gave you a little misinformation, the problem is really not erratic it just quit period. I said erratic because for a while it was then the beep quit for awhile and then returned. For sometime now a few months I think no beep. After reading your diagnosis I seem to remember it started with the rear hatch ( I also failed mention this is a wagon). I noticed when the vehicle is locked and the alarm set and you open the rear hatch (with the remote) the alarm remains on so when you close the hatch the alarm beeps. I think (not sure) that was when I first noticed the lack of beep.
I tried the following, I locked the vehicle with the remote from inside and then pulled the door lever on each door. The horn beeped on each door. I don't know if this proves anything. I also disconnected the hood switch as you described. Also checked chime with the headlight switch on and key in the ignition. I would like to try and isolate the hatch switch but not sure how to do that.
I now have a beep.
I think the erratic beep started after the dealer replaced the radio, so I removed the plug and plugged it in and the beep is back. I think I'll buy a wiring diagram and see if I can figure out why.
It's good to have everything working normal. The vehicle only has 18000 mi. so I will be driving it for awhile.
Thanks again for your help.
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