Can i switch from a two piece drive shaft to a single driveshaft

The shaft is removed in one piece. You first locate the two bolts that hold the center bearing assembly to its cross brace and remove them. Then, you go to the rear differential and remove the two straps holding the rear u-joint to the pinion shaft. Once you remove the rear u-joint from the pinion shaft, tape the loose end caps in place to prevent loss. Now you can slide the driveshaft to the rear, disengaging it from the transmission in front. You may want two people to do this as you need to avoid allowing the front yoke of the driveshaft to slam into the ground. Installation is the inverse of removal.

(a little late in responding - but maybe someone will need this info).

If you mean the carrier bearing on the driveshaft - then you must have a v6 model. I would advise to skip replacing it and instead purchase a 1pc shaft (no carrier bearing). The cb is located near a Hi-Speed CV Joint which make changing the carrier a little difficult.
A new replacement 1pc driveshaft costs about $225.00
The carrier bearing itself may run $40-$140. ( http://www.fortwayneclutch.com/index.php/driveshaft-parts/carrier-support-bearings/gm/1993-2002-chevy-camaro-v6-pontiac-firebird-v6-carrier-bearing-new-f-body-carrier-bearing-for-v6-models-pn-s-3r80-40.html ) - for reference...
You could also check a junk yard for a 1pc oem shaft (most shafts there are bent or have bad uj's and will cost $$ to have fixed )
>1994-2002 f-body models all have the same length from the seal of the transmission to the center of the uj @ the diff.
>when looking for an oem 1pc shaft you will find them in Steel and Aluminum. Slight differences in length when measuring center to center of the universal joints ( 40 7/8" - 40 1/2" ) - but the slip yokes vary in length, weighted / non-weighted..etc = this will make it appear the the shafts are different.
>>watch out for oem shafts with the weighted slip yoke from manual 6spd v8 models. This slip yoke may hit the trans/exhaust mount that is used on v6 models.!!

it is replaceable
normally it comes complete in the rubber mount
you will have to undo the drive shaft flange at the bearing
remove the drive shaft and take it to an accredited drive shaft repair shop or take the vehicle to an accredited drive line specialist shop
the repair will require that you place the flange back on the shaft after the bearing replacement in exactly the right position or you will get harmonic vibration after the job so talk with the experts first if you want to diy

Look at the drive shaft and make sure that the universals are in line on both shafts.

When you took it apart did you "match mark" the joints so that it went back together the same? If not then your driveshaft is probably out of balance. Any driveline shop can correct this. By match marking I mean that you make a mark on each piece of the driveshaft so that when you put it back together the pieces are in the same position relative to each other. If one piece got put back 180 degrees out, it can cause the whole shaft to become unbalanced.

hello, i have a chevrolet dually, the carrier bearing, in mine was doing this, i took it apart, pulled both driveshafts apart then took carrier bearing off, the bearing inside was dry, plus they had a bblue look to them, bearings was bad, plus rubber around the bearing was dry rotted, there is know way of greasing these bearings because they are sealed, i pull bobcats, tractors, with mine if you use it for a lot of heavy pulling, they dont last a long time, chevrolets carrier bearing is all made together, bearing and rubber is made together, on mine, seems like i paid about 35.00 dollars for mine, spray some wd-40 around driveshaft where it goes into bearing, i had to take a hammer to mine to get it off front drive shaft, it was stuck pretty bad.

Did you change the carrier bearing. It will be cheap compared to a transmission and new drive shaft. Got 1 in my shop right now. Customer did not listen. Check that carrier bearing Cost $1350vs $50

On vehicles covered by this information that are equipped with a two-piece rear driveshaft assembly, the center support bearing may be removed for replacement. To be sure if your driveshaft may be serviced, check with your local parts supplier or dealer for parts availability information.

1. Matchmark and remove the rear driveshaft assembly. For details, please refer to the procedure located earlier in this section.
2. Remove the strap retaining the rubber cushion from the bearing support.
3. Pull the support bracket from the rubber cushion and the cushion from the bearing.
4. Press the bearing assembly from the halfshaft.

To install:

1. Assemble the center support bearing to the driveshaft:
   1. If removed, install the inner deflector onto the front shaft half and ***** punch the deflector at 2 opposite points to make sure it is tight on the shaft.
   2. Fill the space between the inner dust shield and bearing with lithium soap grease.
   3. Start the bearing and slinger assembly straight onto the shaft journal. Support the shaft and using a length of pipe over the splined end of the shaft, press the bearing and inner slinger against the shoulder of the front shaft half.
   4. Install the bearing retainer, the rubber cushion onto bearing, the bracket onto the cushion and the retaining strap.
   
   
2. Align and install the driveshaft assembly to the vehicle.

mark location of drive shaft to rear to aid re-assembly.start nuts on U bolts until flush with end to protect threads & tap or pry on nuts to release from bearing cups pry under 'cross' against yoke nut to slide drive shaft forward enough to remove.

cardan centering bearing
point bolts needed to be removed that connects D.S.to transfercase

I have a '88 Ranger XLT extra cab 4X4 w/auto tranny (2.9L V6) that had a 2-piece driveshaft on it. After adding a 4" suspension lift, there was a strong vibration whenever I took off from a dead stop. I replaced the drive shaft with a beefed up 1 piece custom built by a shop specializing in drive shafts. The truck no longer had any vibration, and it hooks up immediately on exceleration. I found the shop on Ebay advertising drive shafts. All I had to do was measure the length from the transfer case/Tranny to the rear differential. The length of the new drive shaft allowed me to adjust almost 3/4" so all I had to do was get it close. I also took close up pictures so the shop could match up the correct flange on both ends of the driveshaft. The last thing I had to do was flip the crossmember brace so it wouldn't interfere with the new drive shaft.