The U-joint on the rear portion of the driveshaft between the transfer case and the rear differential,was bad.Before I could get around to replacing the part it broke off.I was able to disconnect the still attached end.After driving for about 3mls on the front drive,the van started revving out and slowed to a stop.Now it wouldn't go into gear,and the odemeter bounces up and down when I. Attempt to put it in gear.Was the damage done to the tranny or the transfer case?My van has 110k and is in great shape,its worth fixing!

If this is a new vehicle to you someone may have put the wrong gear in one end of the vehicle. Also check tire and rims that must be the same front and rear or the travel per revolution of each axle must be the same. Go to discounttire,com and use their tools to find the circumference of the tires.

Check Axle Bearings And Gears Inside Rear Differential. Hope This Helps.

Check the u-joints in the drive shaft. Are they binding up? Work the u-joints around by hand with the driveshaft out. They should turn smoothly and uniformly-any looseness or stiffness in any portion of travel is a bad u-joint. Not sure if u-joints on Nissans can be replaced, or if you have to buy a new or used driveshaft with the u-joints. At one time u-joints were not replaceable, but some aftermarket suppliers were trying to change that. You would have to check at a parts store.
Check the frame piece that the carrier bearing and bracket sits on. Is it still straight and true? Not bent from being hit from underneath (like running over a large boulder)?
Is the bearing still good? What is getting busted, the bearing itself, or the rubber insulator ring, or the metal bracket that holds it all in place? Unless there is a problem in the rear differential (like locking up), it is likely a mis-alignment of the bracket or frame it sits on, or a seriously bad u-joint, or a seriously bent drive shaft.

Action: Description

Inspect Cooling system hoses
Torque Body Fasteners
Inspect Idle speed
Inspect Exhaust system heat shields
Inspect Fuel lines
Inspect Emission System
Torque Frame Fasteners
Replace Air filter element
Inspect Drive Belt(s)
Change fluid Automatic transmission/transaxle
Inspect Parking brake
Inspect Ball joints
Drain, flush & refill Cooling system
Inspect Steering system
Inspect Brake system
Inspect Brake lines & hoses
Inspect Axle Shaft Oil Seal
Change fluid Rear differential
Inspect Driveshaft Universal Joint(s)
Inspect Constant Velocity Joint Boots
Change fluid Brake system
Replace Crankcase Oil Filter
Lubricate Door checks
Inspect fluid level Manual transmission/transaxle
Inspect fluid level Front differential
Inspect fluid level Transfer case
Inspect fluid level Rear differential
Change fluid Crankcase

Remove transfer case shield. Remove clamp on boot
where front drive shaft meets transfer case. use a flat
screwdriver to pry free end up and release clamp. (you need a special clamp tool to reinstall clamp )
Remove 4 bolts at differential end that hold U joint Retainers to yoke. Slide drive shaft to rear enough to clear yoke. then let drive shaft drop so it clears differential and slide forward until it come off transfer case shaft.

Sounds like you may have a bad universal joint on the driveshaft. It is possible though that you have excessive lash in the differential gearset or in the transfer case. Check the joints first...that's the most common problem.
Check with both rear wheels off the ground and the transmission in neutral so the driveshaft is not in tension.

You know for a fact no power is being sent to the front axle? This transfer case only sends power to the front axle when the rear axle is slipping. Are there any unusual noises in the front axle?

If it is the transfer case, replacing it is not too big of a deal. If you are the least bit confident of your abilities, then you can do it yourself. I believe you have the NP242 transfer case, but I could be wrong. There will be a tag on the back side of the case, facing the rear axle, to the left of the drive shaft. On that tag, it will tell you which case you have. You can either have yours rebuilt, or buy a replacement either new or used.

To remove the t-case, first drain the fluid. Next remove the front driveshaft by removing the four bolts holding the u-joint in place. Then remove the rear drive shaft by doing the same as the front driveshaft, only this time it's at the rear differential. Once the drive shaft is free, support the full weight of the driveshaft, not that heavy, and pull it out of the t-case and set aside. Disconnect the shifter linkage and wiring harness. Next, remove the bolts that connect the t-case to the t-case cross member. Lift slightly and support the tranny/t-case assembly and remove the cross member. The t-case isn't very heavy, but you don't want it falling on your head, so remember to support it as you remove the bolts that connect it to the rear of the tranny. Once you bring it out from under the Jeep, and it's rebuilt or you have another unit to replace it, installation is the reverse of removal. Just remember to refill the t-case with the proper fluid.

it just pulls out. it hasa circlip that holds it in on driver side. which side?

here's an escort, should be similar. note step 17

Removal

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
   

1. Remove the lug nuts (1012) and the front wheel and tire assembly.
   

1. Remove the front fender splash shield bolts and the front fender splash shields (16103) .
   

1. Use a small cape chisel to carefully raise the staked portion of the front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477).
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the front axle wheel hub retainer and discard it.
   

1. Remove the cotter pin and the tie rod end nut from the tie rod end (3A130). Discard the cotter pin.
   
   
   
   
   

1. Use an appropriate tie rod end remover to separate the tie rod end from the front wheel knuckle (3K186).
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the ball joint bolt and the ball joint bolt nut.
   
   
   
   
   

1. Carefully pry down on the front suspension lower arm (3078) to separate the front suspension lower arm ball joint (3050) from the front wheel knuckle.
   
   
   
   
   

1. Pull outward on the front wheel knuckle (3K185). Carefully pull the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the front wheel knuckle and position it aside.
   
   
   
   
   

1. NOTE: Removal of the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint (3B437) requires removal of the transmission support crossmember (6A023) to allow access with a pry bar. If the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint is being removed, continue with step 11. If the RH front wheel driveshaft and joint is being removed, continue with step 15.
   
   Support the transaxle with a transaxle jack or equivalent.
   

1. Remove the four transaxle mount-to-rear engine support nuts.
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the two rear engine support nuts at the rear of the transmission support crossmember.
   

1. While supporting the rear of the transmission support crossmember remove the two rear engine support bolts. Remove the transmission support crossmember.
   
   
   
   
   

1. Position a drain pan under the transaxle.
   

1. Insert a pry bar between the front wheel driveshaft and joint and the transaxle case.
   

1. CAUTION: Extreme care must be taken to ensure that the pry bar does not damage the transaxle case, the transaxle oil seal, the front wheel driveshaft and joint, or the front wheel driveshaft joint boot (3A331).
   Gently pry outward to release the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the differential side gears (4236).
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint.
   
   
   
   
   

1. CAUTION: When the LH and RH front wheel driveshaft and joint assemblies are removed, Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH must be inserted to prevent the differential side gears from becoming mispositioned. If the gears become misaligned, the differential will have to be removed from the transaxle to align the gears.
   If both front wheel driveshaft and joints were removed, install Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH in the differential side gears.
   

1. Remove and discard the driveshaft bearing retainer circlip (3Z498).
   

nope there is a bushing that is in the rear mount that holds the differential in place this is what it is just replace it ....its a dealer only part

cardan centering bearing
point bolts needed to be removed that connects D.S.to transfercase