Have a problem with the heat gage. When driving the car its fine. If stopped for more than a minute the gage starts climbing almost to the red zone before one of the radiator cooling fans will come on. Everything as been checked out by a good mechanic and he's stumped. Water pump has been replaced, radiator cleaned, cap replaced, dash cluster taken out and cleaned and tested, temp sending unit checks out good, thermastat changed, cooling fans tested.... Anybody have any ideas. After sitting and start driving again, the gage goes back down to normal.
Has anyone tested the new temp unit to make sure it's functioning properly? Or is their possibly a mechanical thermostat in it that's hung and needs to be replaced?
SOURCE: 98 buick centry 3.1 6 cyc one owner family owned
Unfortunately, you've got serious problems. The GM 3.1 and 3.4 engines have a nasty habit of breaking camshafts. For some reason, which I have yet to determine, the cam bearings seize on the cam and the camshaft ends up breaking in half. The engine will continue to run, albeit very poorly since all the cylinders are not working because the rear half of the camshaft, which runs the oil pump, is not spinning.
SOURCE: 1994 buick lasaber
What do you mean by checked the computer?? did he run a trouble code test?
SOURCE: Radiator Electric Fan Motor on a 2003 Buick Century won't come on when temp gets high
I have a 1997 Buick Century with the same problem. Both my fans work if the A/C is
on as they should. If your turn off the A/C the passanger side fan will not come on
and at an idle the coolant in the radiator will boil, you can hear it in the overflow tank.
If you are driving there is enough air flow thru the radiator that the coolant doesn't
boil and the car doesn't overheat. I have replace the water pump, the thermostat.
and the ETS or engine temperature sensor mounted just above the thermostat in
the thernostat housing, to no avail, I still have the same problem. The only other
thing is the coolant level sensor in the radiator, which I haven't replace yet due
to the fact you have to pull the radiator in order to replace it, which is a major
undertaking. I have a low coolant indicator on all the time on the dash so I have
a pretty good idea the coolanat level sensor is bad. The coolant level is not low
so that sensor is not working as it should. I hope this may help with your problem.
To test you fan raise the hood when it is cold and top off the radiator and fill the
overflow tank to the cold mark. Start the car and let it idle with the A/C off and
see if the drivers side fans comes on. It will have to get to operating temp
before the fan will come on. If it doesn't come on replace the radiator low coolant
sensor on the passanger side of the radiator. If that doesn't fix the problem
replace the thermostat and the Engine Temperature Sensor at the thermostat
housing with an A/C Delco Engine Temperature Sensor. Good Luck..
SOURCE: Buick Roadmaster radiator fan
hi Russ, it sounds like the temperature switch is bad. It is located under the hood, front engine area, driver side, end of intake manifold, mounted in the block. U should be able to test it w/ an ohmeter as follows: disconnect wiring (check for loose, corroded, etc as that could be the problem) remove temp. switch, place in an old pot w/ water on stove, w/ temp below 99 degrees, connect ohmeter to terminals, reading should be zero. Heat water to above 99 degrees, check , should read infinity. If it fails this test, it's time to replace it. Good luck, let me know how u make out Curt from Connecticut.
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Mine does the same thing, but I've read that the temperature that the fan kicks on at is what it's actually set to. When I sit in the drive thru or idling at a stop for awhile I turn i push the front defrost button and that kicks on the fan. I know that's kind of not addressing the issue but it's how I've been able to keep the temp down. .
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