Front driver and passenger windows don't work

After I verify both driver window control switch and the passenger wdo control switches don't cause the window to operate, I turn off engine and go on ACC Mode and listen for a relay clicking in the door or the BCM while you operate the switch. If you hear a click, then it's a bad wdo motor.

Usually it is in the drivers window controller.There is a module that usually goes bad.

windows (all) power windows. its a fuse. blown.
this is in the operators guide, lost?

fuses that look bad , are
fuses that look good, can be bad, (tiny cracks. ) we never assume we tests them.
and the FSM covers this, why fix cars, FSM free,?
or go to alldata.com and read that. its all there, and the full schematic for your car 50 pages. just on schem.
im looking now...for you..... tick tock tick tock ok. 30seconds
and ...
usa mode is unique as is 4 door, so i guess..
4 fuse, under dash, fuse #24,25,26,27.
the fuse box door relay is control by the DCMU.
door metrix control unit (brain)
if the relay dont click the relay is bad, or the DCMU is bad, or the inputs to the DCMU are fibbing (rules of computers apply)
if all are dead its not the door motors.

checks,
DCMU
pin 10 must be 12v. at all times, even key out.
pin 3 goes to 0vdc energize the relay, if not the relay will be dead.
when you actvate any window switch this pin3 goes low.

there are 5 switches , and one called main, this switch must work
or all is dead. (really its a parent switch blocking kids)
this switch if not closing, kills the other 3 switches dead,
it holds 0v , to do that. a ground,
any switch stuck my cause the DCMU to go funky, as is with many computers, the unit might just dummy up (GIGO rules)
GIGO in computer parlance is "garbage in , nets,. garbage out)
is always possible.
keep in mind most makers dont publish the truth table. (sigh)
the brings us to the captains seat.
one trick is to unplug all non drivers (captain switch) and see if captain switch now works,
if yes, bingo on others. bad, retest to find bad one.
the drivers switch has 5 modes, and 8 wires
my book does not show the logic on these, but id bet a real FSM does.
try ON postion and test all other doors,
the try autodown, does driver window drop?
my book is weak,
but above might help.

If you want to solve your problem, click on the link I attached
Best Manuals

The lock switch is designed to keep the passenger buttons from being used. It should not stop the master switch from operating the windows - or at least, that's what the 2003 Buick Century Owner's Manual says.

After studying the schematics for your vehicle, Iwould say that the owner's manual is correct. The lockout switch only cuts power to the passenger switches. The driver's (master) switch can still power the passenger windows. If none of the passenger windows work from either the driver's door switch or the passenger switches, then the master switch probably has an internal open circuit causing this. There is no separate relay or fuse. I would replace the master switch. Be sure and check ALL switches with the lock on and the lock off to verify this before replacing anything.

need to remove door panel and test power , motor, connections and track

I just bought a 2007 accord and its having the same problem. Was there any resolution?

If they sound like they are trying to do something it's not the lock out switch . But to be sure pulling out the switch an testing for B+ voltage to and from the switch . Plus pull the other door switches to see if they have B+ voltage and good grounds would be the thing to do.. If you don't know how to check automotive electrical circuits your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop .
Passenger Power Window Operation
The passenger power window switches incorporate window up and down relays. The relay coil feed and supply sides are powered through the RAP fuse supply voltage circuit. The normally closed contacts of each relay is connected to ground. The load side of each of the relays are connected to either side of the power window motor through the power window up and down circuits. The up and down relay control circuits are connected to the normally closed contacts of the passenger window switch. These contacts are wired in series with the power window master switch, through the power window master switch up and down signal circuits and then to ground when the power window master is placed in the up or down position. This allows for the up and down operation of the passenger power window from the power window master switch. The center pole of the passenger power window switch is also connected to ground and will energize the relay when placed in the up or down position.

Driver Power Window Operation
The driver power window is unique from the passenger power windows in that it does not use window up and down relays. The driver power window is operated directly from the power window switch.
The normally closed contacts of the switch are connected to ground and the center pole is connected to the RAP fuse supply voltage circuit. By placing the left power window switch in the down position, voltage is applied to the power window motor left front down circuit and to the power window motor. The other side of the power window motor is connected to ground through the normally closed contacts of the left power window switch through the power window motor left front up circuit and drives the window down.
By placing the left power window switch in the up position the polarity of the motor is reversed and the motor drives the window up.

Has circuit breaker for B+ power
• PWR WDO CB 25A (fuse block) (System power for left and right windows 2-door vehicles. System power for LF and LR windows 4-door vehicles)
• PWR WDO CB 25A (IP wiring harness junction block) (System power for RF and RR windows 4-door vehicles)

Could be passenger door switch .

looks like you have a problem with the switch, not the fuse, or the relay.
Motor will be the last and most expensive solution, so start with relay

This is essentially correct. A common problem with earlier models of Eurovans is the wiring through the door boot. Check this first as the wires tend to become brittle and break. This can save you alot of hassle in getting the door panel off and inspecting the motor mechanism. A good sign is if when you press the window switch you hear a little "click" in the right front of the dash. That is the window relay engaging. Power is getting to that point in the circuit but can't make it back through to the door.
Mike