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A year ago I had to cut the emercency brake cabke under the dash. The pedal would not disengage. Now the rear wheel (driver side ) keeps locking up. What is a fix?
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brake pedals are controlled by a lock pall attached near or on the pedal arm. This is the park brake part of a tractor. You may have to push the brake down and manually lift the pall out of the way as it will no automatically release.
This depends on which cable is hanging down. There are several cables in the assembly. One cable comes from the parking brake assembly under the Drivers' dash. It joins the rear cable assembly that goes to each rear wheel. Some cars have 2 separate rear wheel cables and others have a Y assembly that has to be replaced as 1 part.
There can be an adjustment rod where the front cable meets the rear assembly. Some of the parking brake reels under the dash are suppose to reel in extra slack.
Often if the rear Emergency brakes are worn out, there will be slack in the assembly.
Does the car have ABS ? And does it have an equalizer block for the 4 wheels ? It sounds like the ABS has been affected, or there is an equalizer block that is stuck on the front wheels only. Can you open the bleeder or the rear line on the master cyl and get fluid to come out by depressing the pedal ?
the brake shoe anchor pins inside the rear brake disk have rotted away by the sound of it ,doesnt this vehicle require a yearly mechanical inspection where you live with a certificate issued to use it on the road as this vehicle sound like it not roadworthy and could possibly cause a accident if the brakes failed and no emergency manual parking brake ,especially as its a american motor that no doubt has a autobox where their is no control over the slowing down via engine braking with this type of gearbox .
Good question, on the antilock system is a bleader too and bleade it the same way you bleade the caliper. After all is done adjust the rear brakes, they should have a drag to them.
There is no hand brake. It is foot operated. The pedal will be on the driver side kick panel, and the release handle is under the dash in the same area.
Hello, with this body style, we have found this a lot. If the rear shoes are not adjusted really close, and I mean close, we have many issues the same as you are having. ABS is coming on, because rear wheels are locking up. You didnt mention if you cut the drums. A course cut will also cause this condition. We now set the brake drag so it turns 1 revolution after you spin the tire on the hoist. Hope this helps you get this repaired.
well because the abs light indicates a problem with your anti-lock braking system you need to find out why it is on.... keep in mind one quick way you would disengage your cruise is with the brake pedal.
under the hood is a fuse panel (often located near the battery) ... see if there is a relay in the for your cruise... replace that.
I would try first to separate the two potential problem sources by (in a safe place and on a slippery surface or sand) bringing the car to a stop, then pressing firmly on the brake and then following that with pressure on the gas pedal.
With someone watching the rear wheels, see if they are attempting to turn even though the brakes are applied.
No doubt that the transmission should be disengaging but it sounds to me as if the rear wheels are not braking at all.
I don't know if your car is so equipped but it was fairly common before the era of ABS systems that there was a regulator in the line servicing the rear brakes, some sensitive to the level (loading) of the car, others to the applied pressure and still others with both capabilities.
The purpose of this system was to prevent the lock-up of the rear wheels.
This regulator was passive and self-contained and rarely caused problems at all, but since they can control the pressure applied to the rear brakes, they might be capable of malfunctioning.
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