Double check your connections to make sure they are good and are properly tightened. Sometimes there is corrosion under the insulation in the cable next to the battery connector.
One thing to watch for when working on batteries with post-type connectors: it is very easy to crack the seal around the battery post by applying sideways torque ("bending" force) on the connector while tightening or loosening the clamp bolt. You should apply counter-torque on the connector with one hand while you tighten the bolt with the other (visualize it as keeping the post from bending, and you'll have the right amount of force and correct direction). Even a microscopic crack will start corrosion on the post and connector. Sometimes the connection will work well when first assembled, but not the next day as corrosive fumes from the leak attack the connector.
If you were working on the starter button, perhaps it was in poor condition and ready to fall apart inside, and you don't have a good contact anymore. Check for voltage across the switch contacts while you are trying to start the motor; it should not be more than a fraction of a volt. (You can do the same test between the battery post and the connector attached to it to verify a clean connection.)
SOURCE: 1995 golf won't start.
check power at starter solenoid if you got power you need a starter motor if not check power at ignition switch .....................
SOURCE: When I turn the key I get nothing.The starter doesnt engage.
sound like and ignition switch has gone out or your starter selinoid relay on your starter is dead.
SOURCE: The car will only push start. When the key is
The brushes in your starter are either worn out or dirty. Try turning you engine over with an assitant tapping on your starter with a hammer (don't smash it to hard !) This sometimes will get your starter to engage. If this works you know that you need new brushes in your starter or a whole new starter.
SOURCE: 1992 eurovan won't start, all electrical works but
check your fuses first for a blown fuse.
check the very thick cable that runs from the battery positive to the starter motor to make sure it isnt heavily corroded either at the batter or starter end. corrosion will have to be quite bad and therefore obvious if sufficient to cause a problem. also check the fixings are tight on either end. perform the same checks for the thick cbale from the negative battery terminal . this will either run directly to the engine/gearbox housing or to to the chassis/vehicle from which it will connect to the engine via another cable. all of this needs to be tight and corrosion free.
if so, then you will find a much thinner cable that runs to the starter motor solenoid (which is part of the starter motor assembly). this small cable will be very close to the thick one. check that this cable has a live feed while an assistant tries to engage the starter motor with the key. you will need a test lamp or voltmeter to do this.
if there is a live feed from this thin cable, and you are definately happy that the battery and the heavy cables are good, then the fault has too lie with the starter motor.
if there is not live feed at the small wire then this will be down to either a faulty ignition switch, a blown fuse, if fitted, a relay or a wiring fault.
does the clicking noise you hear ONLY occour while the key is turned to engage the starter motor? if so this could be the problem, otherwise I would think it is irrelevant to the problem.
You can test the ignition switch by removing the cowling around the ignition barrel. There is usualy 4 wires. one will be a pernament live feed into the switch. one will become live when the key is turned to the first stage ( for things like the radio). the next will only become live with the ignition on. The most important one here will be the one that becomes live while engaging the starter. if there is no live going out, but there is a live into the switch then it will obviously be the switch thats faulty.
failing that, it comes down to tracing the point where the live feed breaks down.
I'm not sure if there is a relay in this circuit, I would not have thought so, may worth trying to find out, perhaps by trying to get hold of a wiring diagram (manufacturers website?).
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