Error code 232 on volvo s40

http://www.fixya.com/tags/fault_code_d900/cars/volvo

So you really have done nothing at all

You never checked for codes
You never looked at scan tool data

You threw a part at it, with no testing

You had the check light cleared & lost ALL
Data needed to diagnose the car

Have the vehicle scanned at a local parts store and have them retrieve the code. Once you have the code, let me know and we can diagnose it properly and effectively.

Sounds like your dealer is feeling its way. which sensor did they say they changed and why. Do not pay for this ****, you took it to the dealer with a warning light and they say they changed something in order to attempt to cure the warning but they failed. About as much use as changing the seat covers and emptying the ash trays! When you say noise, is this a squeal, a crunch, is it continuous or is it during change gear. Does the car slip when in gear, is there vibration. Check your engine oil and transmission oil levels

The Check Engine light has nothing to do with changing the oil. The light is on because there is a problem with the emissions system. Even if you reset the light it will just come back on unless the problem causing it to come on is repaired. You will need to have the ECU scanned with an OBD2 scan tool. That tool will retrieve the code that has been set by the ECU. The code will tell you what part is being effected, but not necessarily what part or parts are defective. To determine that takes training, experience, and diagnostic skills. I suggest you seek professional help. If the engine is running fine there is no hurry but if it is not running as it should, then do not put this off.

Get somebody who has a diagnostic scanner... OBD .. to connect it to your car and see if there are any error codes.

It's possible that a sensor has failed

it could be one of 2 things the cam sensor or the co sensor on the exhaust, both of these when warmed up will set off an eml light and confusing error codes. as when engine is stopped they reset themselves. but codes will be logged and they need to be warmed up again. cam sensor faults is when the resistance in the sensor become erratic. as it has volts on the sensor will go up and down. co sensor can be the heater as it has to heat the sensor to make the sensor reliable. it takes a few seconds for the sensor to read. if it fails and come up on eml light but then turn engine off and then start it again it can be this cam and crank sensors work the same way they can over heat them selfs of time and will both need replacing, i found its best to replace both at the same time.

2-3-2* Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean or too rich at idle }If too rich: high fuel press., leaking injector } various driving problems Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean at idle Oxygen sensor

Hope fully you've already solved this problem. If not the problem just sounds like it a comms error between the diagnostic equiptment and the car.

if you have over 125k miles on it chances are your about time for a new catalytic convertor... can cause a rotten burnt smell... lack of power.. and even a stall... or no start