Flushed heater core, put in new thermostat. Lines going in and out of core are hot.The temp gauge is working properly, cooling fans come on and off as they should. Also new radiator and water pump. Heater still blows cold. Is there a door inside the dash that controls the temp that I can check?
May have a bad or stuck heater controller also. A quick fix is to look under the dash and see if you can find the door to open that and at least get some heat. You will have to remove the cable hold down in order to move the door flap. At least then you can figure out if the controller is working also once you figure out which door it is. Some cars are easier to get to then others. The kick panel above your feet will need to be removed maybe the glove box also
Yes, that would probably be the culprit. There is a blend door inside of the air box that switches from heat to cool. Either there is an obstruction keeping the door from moving, or the actuator that moves the door is not operating.
SOURCE: 96 Blazer Overheating
Yes the issue is most likely an air block, jack the front of the truck up as far as you can, fill the recovery bottle and run the engine for about 10 min, then shut down and run cold water over the radiator, this should purge the air, recheck the recovery tank and refill as ness.
SOURCE: no heat
I had the same problem and it went away on its own. Make sure the button to the left of the rear defroster is off, I think that's what did it for me.
SOURCE: 4.3 liter won't gain temp, why?
Hello,
The chevy blazers are known fior heater core issues clogged going bad etc... The reason im saying this is because the only reason i could see you having a problem with the temp not getting hot enough is because then your heat in your car isnt getting hot or its taking super long to get luke warm, is that correct? If so 9 times out of 10 its a bad heater core...
Thanks,
Steve
SOURCE: car heat
Park your unit on a slight incline, start cold w/ radiator cap removed and interior heat on full bore. This will burp or release your air from your cooling system. Add 50/50 until radiator is full. When you replace any good amount of coolant in post 90's vehicles it must fill in that position. You also may have pushed some gunk around, flushing, clogging a water jacket or heater core. Hopefully helpful!!!!
SOURCE: 1995 chevy camaro 3.4 V6
possibly something blocking the radiator air flow, low coolant, check engine light?? cooliong fan not working, coolant temp switch, are just a few things to check.
Air
Temperature Control Blend Door Failure No Heat or no AC (dependes on
where door sticks)
In
all modern cars there is a tiny DC electric motor driven gear drive
that moves a plastic door that blends heated and cooled air from the
AC and the heater core, this is called (interestedly enough) the air
temperature control blend door actuator. The motor that moves this
door fails because the door starts sticking from warping, most common
complaint is no heat but it can be no AC as well. To replace these
parts (blend door and blend door actuator) you must remove the entire
dash from the car. Always have this problem confirmed by a dealer or
qualified repair shop as it is a very expensive repair.
Other causes of no heat in the cabin are engine thermostats that are stuck open (engine runs cold) or air bubbles in the cooling system.
Having a blocked heater core will not make the engine over heat. You will just not get any of the heat from the fluid that would normally be pushed through the heater core because your core or cores are blocked (I think you have two cores if you have a rear heater.). The engine does not need your interior heater cores to keep cool. When you select "heat" on your console, either a valve opens up and allows fluid to move through the lines to your heater cores and or an air duct opens to the cores to blow air across them...
Did your heater work before your work?
Does the gauge stay pegged or does it fluctuate?
If your gauge now fluctuates after your work, it would indicate to me that there is air trapped in the engine or bubbles passing by. The air does not cool the engine block as well so the temp will rise quickly. It will then cool a bit as the coolant splashes by. If your gauge is staying hot and never moves, it could mean: you are missing a lot of coolant, trapped air near the temp sender, or your thermostat is not opening. A closed thermostat would make the gauge go all the way hot and stay hot. The thermostat can be checked with a pan of boiling water on the stove. When boiling, put the thermostat in the water and check to see if it opens. It is also important that the thermostat is installed in the correct direction. The temp sensor much be on the engine side. I am also assuming your pump shaft is not sheared and is still connected to the impeller and it is spinning as well. You can take your belt off and move it by hand to see if you feel any resistance. If you are sure the thermostat is opening and the pump circulating, I would then check and see if you have air in trapped in your system. I looked at my Uplander and noted a lot of hoses and metal pipes at a higher level than the filler neck of the radiator. Perhaps, when you filled your system back up from the radiator, that a lot of air got trapped in the upper part of the engine and the heater lines. I also saw that there were little brass valves near were the hoses connect near the pump and on the driver side. I would suggest running the engine and open and close the little brass check valve on the divers side to see if you have fluid or just air coming out. I wouldn
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