The upper intake has to come up. The coolant pipe that goes to the back has a clip on it, you can not adjust the pipe until you release that clip. After the upper intake is all the way up, you can see where the pipe comes out the back, just pop it off the clip with a flat screwdriver or small pry bar,After that, the pipe will move easy enough to re-insert it into the assembly before screwing the four bolts back in. Make sure you put a fresh oring to avoid problems. I always add some black silicone for an optimum seal. BTW the lower intake does not have to come out, only the upper. I also found that the engine will shake a little bit if the large pvc pipe on the top back of the upper intake is not sealed properly when reassembled. I solve that issue with a good bead of black silicone too. Make sure to get new intake gaskets if it is the first time popping the upper intake off.
Felpo gaskets will hold up for several removals. I hope this little bit of info helps you DIY guys.
Hello can anyone help me. I'm not only changing the bleeder, but the pipe that runs to the rear of the engine into a hose that goes into the fire wall. It's a 2.7L v6 dodge magnum. I cannot possibly slide it out upwards, out the front, or out the back. The only possible solutions I see are removing the front end(radiator, bumper, rad support) to slide the piece out forwards, or removing one head to pull it out on top. Please tell me what I am missing.
SOURCE: How do I replace the coolant air bleeder assembly
mcgyver468 nailed it, spot on. I had the same problem at 70k miles on my '02 Intrepid. Found the part for about $60 at NAPA (dealer wanted $100) and replaced it myself. Was a lot of work because you had to remove the upper part of the engine cover just to access the bolts, and also it was a pain to release the clamps in the back of the engine holding the coolant lines for the heater (which creates tension of the valve housing unit and makes it very hard to install). It took me about a day of on and off working on it because I was so frustrated with all the work it entailed (and I had a Hayne's Repair manual which was fairly straight forward...though it did not explain the lines very well and I had to work my way through that).
Now at just over 100k miles, the bleeder valve is leaking again...why it is made so shoddily...for something that sits on top of the engine and gets very hot...is beyond me. I have seen estimates for $350-$400 to have a shop repair this. I believe I am going that route this time just to save me the hassle.
SOURCE: coolant air bleeder
If you need to do this because the top came off, I found it to be a big job on the 2.7L V6. I initially tried to bond the top back on with no success.
To replace it, you have to remove both the upper and lower intake plenum. This device has the upper radiator hose connected in front, and the tube which runs back below the intake plenum connects to a heater hose at the rear. The hose clamp on the rear connection is very hard to get to. Unless you have a lot of mechanical experience, and a lot of patience, you may want to pay someone to do this for you. The price on the part from the dealer was about $110, as I remember.
SOURCE: 2004 Dodge Stratus 6 cyl 2.7L Overheating at idle
Try blowing the radiator core out with compressed air from the engine side to remove bugs and other debris. Make sure the fans turn freely with no noise and that they both come on when the engine heats up. Make sure the radiator cap has a good seal underneath. The three items at the end of your post are not likely. Check the radiator coolant level after it has run, then cooled off--it should be right at the top of the filler. If not, replace the hose going to the reservoir.
SOURCE: how do you replace a coolant air bleeder on 2000 dodge intrepid
unscrew it out of the thermostat housing and screw a new one in. make sure cars not hot when you do this.
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