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Anonymous Posted on Jul 04, 2017

99 xj8 dont run got fuel and spark ,will crank but not fire up

My 1999 xj8 only had 24000 miles was running fine no issue at all but one morning can't start,engine turn but not fire up .thing been checked fully chared battery ,got fuel pressure 36 psi when turn key on got spark and clean mass flow sensor.all coils are look good not any color change on coils look new to me .also checked all fuses and relay .and all new plugs .after all that still only crank not fire up .please help .Thanks

  • Anonymous Feb 04, 2012

    took plugs out and checked they were wet and clean and put back,

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1 Answer

Bill Boyd

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  • Jaguar Master 53,816 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 04, 2017
Bill Boyd
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Joined: Jan 04, 2013
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No pulse for the injectors
check wiring
run the fault codes
check the ECM unit

5 Related Answers

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Oct 17, 2008

SOURCE: 1999 pontiac grand prix . will not run

If wiggling the wires cured the code, then one of the wires is broken inside the insulation. Pull on each wire one at a time. look for the colored insulation to stretch, this will be the broken wire. For the other car that wont rev up, this is a common when the catalytic concverter is plugged up. This will also cause MAF codes, and in turn, TRAC OFF light.
See http://www.greatautohelp.com

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Dec 08, 2008

SOURCE: 1999 Yukon cold start problems.

1999 Yukon Start Issue - I have replaced the octopuse, battery, fuel filter, fuel pump, still having problems starting in cold weather, sometimes after a heavy rain.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Feb 08, 2009

SOURCE: Engine died while driving, cranks but won't start.

not all scanners a created equal. You need to check for trouble codes...............but it must be fixec by now.

fta777

  • 119 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 07, 2009

SOURCE: Isuzu Hombre pickup, 2.2L Vortec, Won't Start.

You need four things for an engine to run. 1. fuel 2. spark 3. compression 4. timing (spark at the right time. By your post it seems you have fuel and spark and you probably have compression unless you blew a head gasket. That leaves the timing. Check the timing and/or the timing belt or chain whichever you have.

Anonymous

  • 15935 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 18, 2009

SOURCE: 2001 Chevy Malibu, 89,000 miles, 3.1 engine, won't start

CLICK HERE for the injector schematic.
CLICK HERE for the Ignition schematic.

Since the PCM uses info gatheres from the crank and cam sensors to calculate ignition - and there are no OBD codes - in all likelihood, the PCM itself is bad.

The Ignition Module, also transmits to the PCM.

It appears after all your testing - that the PCM is at fault.

It does not error report on itself (unfortunately).

The ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is necessary (distributorless ignition) or possible.

Please see the following....

The ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is necessary or possible.
The engines covered by this manual are equipped with distributorless ignitions, ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as applicable. No adjustments are possible. If ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and repair the problem as necessary.
Ignition timing is the measurement, in degrees of crankshaft rotation, of the point at which the spark plugs fire in each of the cylinders. It is measured in degrees before or after Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke.
Ideally, the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder will be ignited by the spark plug just as the piston passes TDC of the compression stroke. If this happens, the piston will be at the beginning of the power stroke just as the compressed and ignited air/fuel mixture forces the piston down and turns the crankshaft. Because it takes a fraction of a second for the spark plug to ignite the mixture in the cylinder, the spark plug must fire a little before the piston reaches TDC. Otherwise, the mixture will not be completely ignited as the piston passes TDC and the full power of the explosion will not be used by the engine.
The timing measurement is given in degrees of crankshaft rotation before the piston reaches TDC (BTDC). If the setting for the ignition timing is 10 BTDC, each spark plug must fire 10 degrees before each piston reaches TDC. This only holds true, however, when the engine is at idle speed. The combustion process must be complete by 23° ATDC to maintain proper engine performance, fuel mileage, and low emissions.
As the engine speed increases, the pistons go faster. The spark plugs have to ignite the fuel even sooner if it is to be completely ignited when the piston reaches TDC. Spark timing changes are accomplished electronically by the engine and ignition control computers.
If the ignition is set too far advanced (BTDC), the ignition and expansion of the fuel in the cylinder will occur too soon and tend to force the piston down while it is still traveling up. This causes pre ignition or -knocking and pinging-. If the ignition spark is set too far retarded, or after TDC (ATDC), the piston will have already started on its way down when the fuel is ignited. The piston will be forced down for only a portion of its travel, resulting in poor engine performance and lack of power.
Timing marks or scales can be found on the rim of the crankshaft pulley and the timing cover. The marks on the pulley correspond to the position of the piston in the No. 1 cylinder. A stroboscopic (dynamic) timing light is hooked onto the No. 1 cylinder spark plug wire (2.2L engine only, on the 2.4L engines, special adapters are needed) . Every time the spark plug fires, the timing light flashes. By aiming the light at the timing marks while the engine is running, the exact position of the piston within the cylinder can be easily read (the flash of light makes the mark on the pulley appear to be standing still). Proper timing is indicated when the mark and scale are in specified alignment.


WARNING When checking timing with the engine running, take care not to get the timing light wires tangled in the fan blades and/or drive belts.

The engines covered by this manual are equipped with distributorless ignitions, ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as applicable. No adjustments are possible. If ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and repair the problem as necessary.




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1999 Silverado 1500 runs then shuts down

You need to figure out what you loose when it won't start. I believe I would start with checking fuel pressure. You need at least 40 PSI at the fuel rail to run and it should be up closer to 55 PSI in a healthy fuel system.
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Security is set. Could be one problem. Fuel system can do this, but rarely. Takes a scanner to see where to look first.
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Why does my 1993 geo prizm have no spark or fuel?

old cars.... (old OBD1 , i know well)

skipping the 60k mile tuneup is 99% here. nobody tunes old cars they drive them to death. (stats facts)

there can not be fuel, if no spark, the ECU does detect no spark (most times) and then cuts fuel (to you dont crash and burn as seen on TV)

that is a fact.

so its just spark. and this engine unstated Toyota engine.

has EFI

and as such, the ECU, (EFI brain) makes spark.



the ECU listens to the crank (CKP) and CAM (cmp) sensors

and then fires the IGNITIOR (coil driver)

the ECU will puke DTC errors if CMP or CMP fails.

we see that cranking with the the Diagnostic TE1 jumper in place

the ECU can report dead spark to with its own DTC error codes.



here is my list for old funky engines.

1: compressing at 150PSI + , no ? its 80 the cam belt slipped or is snapped, if snapped the distributor rotor stalls

2: spark good times 4?

4: ok compression at spec, and spark good 4by4.

5: test fuel work ? now? runs for 3sec?

yes, runs and stalls, that is called fuel loss.

no, it must be flooding did you do the spark tip checks for flooding



see this link then go to toyota nation and learn the TE1 jumper

method of testing.

put in a 10cent jumper wire, and crank for 5 seconds , release

key, see flash codes ,bingo ? this works on all OBD1 cars made.



link

http://www.fixkick.com/PRIZM.html



go to toyota nation.
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Cranks but wont start

Likely a fuel delivery problem.

Check the filter, as it may be clogged and due for replacement. To test for fuel delivery, open your airbox and spray some starter fluid (purified ether, usually) down into the throttle body while someone else cranks the engine. If it fires up and runs for a few seconds but won't run without spraying the starter fluid, then you know you've got spark and compression. If that's the case, there could be any number of potential issues: throttle position sensor (not very common, but it does happen), fuel injectors clogged (common if you use low-grade fuel), fuel filter/strainer clogged (filters should be replaced every 30k miles or so, on average), fuel pump failure (you should hear a buzzing from the fuel pump when you crank the engine).

If the starter fluid doesn't help, then the problem is no spark. Check each plug/cable for fouling.
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Pull spark plug and check for spark.
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Have you checked the fuel pressure regulator to see if its leaking?

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

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My 99 blazer was running fine this morning , filled the gas tank half way up and it started fine twice since then......later that day went to start it and it will crasnk but not fire....everything SEEMS to...

CHECK FUEL PRESSURE COULD BE TO LOW OR PUMP JUST QUITE
SOMTIMES POUNDING UNDER CENTER OF GAS TANK WHILE CRANKING WILL GET IT STARTED AGAIN BUT THIS WILL ONLY WORK ONCE OR TWICE GET IT TO A GARAGE OR SHOP TO GET IT CHANGE IF THIS STARTS IT UP
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Wont Start - No Spark

Older VW's and Audi's are notarious for this type of behavior. You actaully need a Vag or good diagnostic tester to tell you which plugs are mis-firing. You will need to replace a coil-pac or two. VW's issued a recall notice about 3 months ago about this issue and intends to re-imburse owners on certain models and years for coil-pac repalcement. After market coil-pacs should cost less than $50.00 each. Hope this helps.
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Car won't start. Cranks fine, but no fire.

And do you have spark at the plug wires when it won't start? You need to check to see if you have spark at the plug wires. You can buy a simple tester for under $10.00 at the parts store and it will show you if you are getting spark.
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Engine cranks but wont start. may start but immediately dies out

hi i dont mean to sound harsh but never assume anything with cars, if the engine cranks but wont start check for a spark at the plugs if no spark then you know that the problem is ignition or electrical in nature. if you have a good spark then you need to find out if you have fuel to the engine a good trick which i use is to spray some carb or injection cleaner into the manifold via a vacuum pipe dont spray it down the intake you might set yourself on fire ! if the engine kicks and attempts to run you know its a fuel fault . come back when youve established this.
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