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Good afternoon, Lou here in Miami, Florida. I have a '98 Jeep Cherokee/Sport 4X4, in line 6. I just had the head replaced, but now experiencing excessice idle when I start it. It automatically goes to red-line. I've repalced all the sensors, made sure all bolts have been tightened, hoses have no cracks or brakes. Please advise..
The problem may also be the automatic choke. It could be stuck in fast idle. check all choke settings and linkages clean if nessesary. There is a separate fast idle adjustment screw on the choke linkage that controls engine speed while the engine is warming up. The tip of the screw rests against a cam that slowly rotates as the choke opens during engine warm up. Turn this screw counterclockwise to decrease the fast idle speed.
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test the compression, also look for a intake manafold leak, take a can of carb cleaner and spray around were the intake mounts to the cylinder head if the engine smouth out replace the gasket or the injector o-rings.....we do a lot of valve jobs on these engines so do a compression test if below 100 psi remove the head and replace the valves and most likly the valve seats....good luck
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR, easy to change and will cause this problem. mounts to intake. If that doesnt work, replace the idle air control solenoid. You can also replace the crank and cam position sensors later if you still have issues,
the temp is what is stamped on the thermostat arouund 86 to 92c
if this is diesel with all the single heads it will be a faulty head, i cant remember which size was the real bad 1
EGR VALVE is carbon up you can clean it by taking it off and using carbon cleaner also replace the sensor for the egr valve. EGR controls idle if carbon up it will cause this problem you explained.
I have a 98 Jeep Cherokee and installed a tow hitch this past week. In order to install the necessary support plates with mounted nuts I had to remove the bumper.
First I unscrewed the two screws located at the bottom of each of the plastic rear fenders. The panels (fenders) are then freed by tapping them upward as they are secuted with slots mounted to the body.
WIth the fenders removed, you can now reach to the two mounting bolts which secure the bumber to the frame. They are about 6 to 10 inches from the side of the bumber towards the center. Remove both of these bolts, then release the two bottom bolts and the bumber is free. Be careful not to break the plastic splash guard which runs along the top of the bumber and fastends to the body below the hatch.
Besure to spray the bolts with a good penetrating oil to help free them up before you strip the heads.
Have you checked for any engine vacuum leaks with a can of carb spray?
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