UPPER AND LOWER SUSPENSION BALL-JOINT - 2002 Land Rover Freelander

Torque settings Working on your car means you have to torque parts up when you fit them. Using correct torque levels is very important. Bolts will be tensioned when torquing up. Always use a torque wrench when installing parts on your car!
Too much tension means the bolt will be stressed too much and can ultimately break.
Not enough tension means the bolt can either run loose or it can move around. This will damage the bolt and it's brackets. This can ultimately also lead to catastrophic failures.
Only use 8.8 grade bolts in suspension applications. (wishbones, dampers etc.) 10.9 grade or even worse 12.9 grade bolts are hardened.

The hardening process will improve the maximum possible load on the bolt, but it will also make the bolt relatively brittle.

Within suspension parts, you would rather see bolts bend than sheer. 8.8 grade bolts have the tendacy to bend, any hardended bolts have the tendacy to sheer.
Below is a guideline to the torque levels used on Metric bolts.
Bolt grades are printed on the head of the bolt.
Bolt Size 8.8 10.9 12.9 A2-70 (Stainless) 6mm (M6) 9Nm 13Nm 14Nm 7Nm 8mm (M8) 23Nm 33Nm 40Nm 17Nm 10mm (M10) 45Nm 65Nm 70Nm 33Nm 12mm (M12) 80Nm 115Nm 125Nm 57Nm 14mm (M14) 125Nm 180Nm 195Nm 16mm (M16) 195Nm 280Nm 290Nm Note than when fitting bolts into Ally threads like rivnuts, manifolds and S1 uprights then the torque may need to be reduced.

Special note for Mr. Wiki - This is the thread size, not the head size.
Engine mount torque settings (K-Series) Nm RH engine mounting bracket to engine RH engine mounting bracket to rubber mounting RH engine rubber mounting to chassis RH engine steady arm bolts LH engine mounting bracket to rubber mounting LH engine mounting bracket to engine Lower steady arm bracket to sump Lower steady arm bolts Use Permabond A130(A912E7033V) on the sump end bolt on the lower steady arm
Front suspension torque settings (S2 K-Series) Nm Upper and lower wishbone pivot bolts Upper swivel joint to steering arm Lower swivel joint to plinth Steering arm to hub carrier Track rod end to steering arm Damper to lower wishbone Damper to top anchor bracket Damper anchor bracket to chassis Hub bearing unit to hub carrier Brake caliper to hub carrier Anti-roll bar rubber bush mounting clamps Anti-roll bar drop links Rear suspension torque settings (S2 K-Series) Nm Upper and lower wishbone pivot bolts Upper and lower swivel joint ball pins Upper swivel joint plinth to hub carrier Toe-link outer ball joint to hub carrier* Toe-link inner ball joint/wishbone to sub frame** Toe link ball joint lock nuts Damper to lower wishbone Damper to chassis Upper brake caliper to hub carrier (M10) Lower brake caliper to hub carrier (M8) Hub bearing unit to hub carrier Rear hub nut ,*Check batch number of ball joint is 43273 or later
,**Check batch number of ball joint is 43725 or later

Lower you can do fairly easy. Upper, a bit tougher.For the upper you will need a spring compressor.

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Here's a link to the lower ball joints. Repair Guides Rear Suspension Lower Ball Joints AutoZone com Here's a link to the upper ball joints. Repair Guides Front Suspension Lower Ball Joints AutoZone com

The lower ball joint on a car is located between the steering knuckle and the lower control arm. It, along with the upper ball joint, allows the steering knuckle to pivot from left to right, turning the wheels while still allowing the front suspension to compress and absorb the impact of traveling over potholes and speed bumps.

Read more: Get a free diagnostic for your car

When you are asking for help with the suspension, suspension specifications, and/or suspension repair information on your Mercury Mountaineer, It would be helpful if you would mention whether your vehicle is 2-wheel or 4-wheel drive.
It just happens that (in this case) the specifications for the ball joint nut torque is the same for BOTH.

Upper Ball Joint Nut: 41 Ft. Lbs. (56 N.m)
Lower Ball Joint Nut: 129 Ft. Lbs. (175 N.m)

Well depending on make and model, if the vehicle has front struts, there is no upper ball joint, the top of the suspension is the strut and the bearing plate at the top, it only has a lower. On most other Ford vehicles, most of the time it is the lower ball joint that goes bad because it is the load bearing ball joint. Please list the make and model of vehicle you are wondering about.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/ Ball Joint Removal

1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .

1. Remove the suspension lower arm ball joint cotter pin.

1. Remove the suspension lower arm ball joint nut and separate it from the wheel knuckle.

May have to leave nut partially on and hit the nut hard with a hammer to knock the tapered stud down and out. May have to hit side of knuckle to help get it to drop. or rent a pickle fork to drive between the bal joint and knuckle.

1. Remove the suspension lower arm ball joint to suspension lower arm nuts and remove the ball joint.

Upper Ball Joint Removal & Installation Ball joints on this vehicle are an integral part of the control arm. If the ball joint is defective, the entire control arm must be replaced.
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Upper Control Arm Removal & Installation

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Wheel and tire assembly
   • Brake disc shield
3. Use a jack to support the front suspension lower arm.
4. Mark the position of the front suspension upper arm adjustment cams.
5. Remove the upper ball joint retaining nut and pinch bolt.
6. Separate the ball joint from the front wheel spindle
7. Remove the front suspension upper control arm.

To Install:

1. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the marks made during removal on the front suspension upper arm adjustment cam. The forward front suspension upper arm nut must be tightened first while the arm is held at the curb position ride height.
2. Observe the following torques:
   1. Control arm attaching nuts: 98 ft. lbs. (133Nm)
   2. Pinch bolt: 46 ft. lbs. (63Nm)

For Lower & Upper Ball Joint Step by Step :

For That you use a C-clamp style ball joint press to remove the ball joint from the suspension arm-note the location of the receiver cup ! For installation of the ball-joint, use the same tool when pressing the ball joint into the suspension arm-again, note the location of the receiver cup.

Step by Step :

1. Raise and support the vehicle safely, with jackstands.
3. Remove the spindle and the ball joint assembly from the vehicle.
5. Remove the snapring from the ball joint. Using a ball joint removal tool, remove the ball joint from the spindle. Do not heat the ball joint or the axle to aid in removal.
7. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Torque the ball joint stud nut to 85-110 ft. lbs. for 1983-89 Ranger and Bronco II.
   
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