I have a 1995 jetta it cranks but the fuel pump is not running to prime the system and there is no spark. the coil, fuel pump, distributor, and tried a new ignition, and fuel pump relay. still nothing. tried to disarm the security system. got nothing. what else is there that will prevent it from starting?

Tried starting it again and noticed that the fuel pump was not turning on..
this is not true done wrong,
and spark is first never ever fuel first, fuel does not burn lacking spark (gas)
if spark is bad on all spark plugs then fix spark. (all plugs dead)
you really really need to end that fixaction on fuel, spark is bad
the pump only pumps cranked and running not key on
most do a 1second prime most noobs never see or know how to find that out (a fuel pressure gauge is that tool) (a 2 man job)
one at key, 1 at gauge, or voltmeter at pump wires rear. 2man not 1 or learn to crank and see fuel pressure good
and learn this fact, too, the ECU on all cars made cuts fuel if the ECU brain detects spark loss to end crash and burn as seen on TV>
this is done 1 or 2ways or both cuts injectors and cuts the pump dead , on newer cars crash switches cut fuel too, so 3ways
end fuel , deals back to SPARK


its bad wiring for spark and using a voltmeter to the correct spot when spark fails is the only test to do.
91'F150 Pickup, not econoline 4.9L gas.
it has a distributor or TFI-I or TFI-iv system
the ICM must be thermal pasted new install or fails hot.
the SM book shows it has TFI spark. in the real 4.9 schematic.
lets focus ******* TFI 4.9L
AS YOU CAN SEE , ANY OF ALL THIS CAN FAIL AND DO THIS OLD.
BEST IS NEW FULLY LOADED DISTRIBUTOR THIS OLD !
Tests:
1: the red wire must be hot keyon, at spark lost or BINGO1
2:the ecu detectS spark loss at pin 4. input. and cuts fuel faST.
3:The TFI IS the ignitor acts like old points did it charges up the coil then fires it.
4: spark is lost we always check for spark directly at the COIN.
if dead there we know coil bad or all part to the left and below bad.
5:the red/light green wire must also be 12vdc hot keyon,
6: the noise cap not missing ,dead or bad or noise can make the TFI module misfire or act up at random, noise is not good here.
7: that is for power loss etc. the problem seems like wiring bad./loose., if spark is good at coil say so. as it might be and only the ignition suppressor is bad and this cuts fuel dead if bad.
the supressor name is not good, better is spark detection read back filter. if bad ECU CAN NOT SEE SPARK HAPPEN
heck it can even lost or its pins rust after 31 year on the road.


FULL SIZED HERE

https://imgur.com/a/5wCgHKp

FIXYA MESS BELOW.

Sounds like a grounding issue , check all hard frame grounds , try grounding the coil to batt

Change your ignition module. The distributor is a weak point of the Honda, I will always change out the whole thing than just try the coil.

A bad wire on starter. Bad hot wire to distributor. Both could cause no spark. Check for power at distributor. If that's good check for bad wires at starter. Those are first to check. Will check in for what you got in a bit. Hope this helps ya

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/joe_a3369546f8067589

Did you visually check for spark at the spark plugs, engine cranking? Does the dist rotor turn when you crank it? Did you use a gage and check correct fuel pressure? Any applicable trouble codes? To check codes, yourself, at the least, you need an obd2 code reader.

If you have the spider fuel system, that system is noted for problems. No, the fuel system shouldn't cause a no spark. If no rpm signal, that will usually stop the injector pulse along with other issues.

Code 12 is a "good" code-it means system normal.
Since no codes are stored, check for spark and check for gas-is the fuel pump coming on? You should hear the pump buzz for a couple of seconds when you turn the key to on-it should start and pressurize the lines, then shut off until the engine is cranked-when cranking, pump should be running again. If you don't hear the pump, check if the fuel pump wire at the gas tank connector has power to it when the engine is cranking. If it does and the pump is not working, the pump will need replacing.
If no power, check the fuel pump fuse and relay, under the hood.
If the fuel pump is working, it may be ignition related-check for spark. You need to see a blue snapping spark to know the ignition system is good. If no spark, suspect the ignition control module or the crank position sensor -or the pickup coil, if no crank sensor. The pickup coil will be in the distributor-if you have one. If no distributor, crank position sensor is behind the crankshaft harmonic balancer.
If fuel pump and spark are good, you will need to diagnose the injector circuit.
Post back with what you find.

possible faulty fuel pump or lack of spark due to a faulty coil or distributor

May be fuel related or ignition related:

Fuel: Obtain a can of "starting fluid" from an auto supply store. Spray directly into air intake for two seconds. If car "kicks" and trieds to start, then the problem is fuel-related. If you spray more, then it may start.
Could be: Fuel filter or fuel pump.

Ignition: Remove a sparkplug cable and lay it down on a metal part of the engine. Have someone crank the starter while you look for a spark from the cable end to the engine. If no spark, it could be several things:
distributor rotor, distributor cracked and/or wet on the inside, ignition coil.

1. A lot can cause a misfire:
2. Primarily fouled spark plug(s) or bad wire(s).
3. also a corroded distributor cap or rotor. a vacuum leak,
4. A bad or leaking fuel injector,
5. Engine out of time and mechanical engine faults including Compression leaks and sticking valves.
6. More often than not it is simply a fuel or ignition system problem both of which are fairly easy to solve.

Troubleshoot your ignition by first assuring that you have fire.



If the engine does not crank at all pull the coil wire off at the cap and set it within an inch of the tower and crank the engine. sparks should emit from this wire to the coil.




You can test each individual spark plug wire this same way by just unplugging it and arcing the spark. then pull out the spark plugs to examine them and replace as necessary (on a dodge use champion plugs). the cap can be removed (make sure to put it on exactly as it came off and put each wire back exactly as it was or it will NOT fire correctly). to check for fuel disconnect the line at the fuel rail on top of the intake manifold and turn the key to ON. this will kick on the fuel pump and should push fuel out of the line as the pump primes. if this test works but you still are not getting fuel to a particular cylinder(s) start unplugging injectors while the engine is running and make a note of which one does not change the idle as this is your problem cylinder. remember any ignition or fuel system fault will disrupt your fuel/air ratio and can damage the catalytic convertor and o2 sensors

When you disconnect a spark plug wire, do you get spark when you crank the engine over?
If so,
When you turn the key to the "run" position (do not crank) do you here the fuel pump run for 2 - 3 seconds?
Let me know.
Regards,