2006 BMW 325i Ci Logo
Anonymous Posted on Jan 27, 2012

I have a 2006 BMW 325i, it was overheating so I checked symptoms and figured it could be the water pump. I told the mechanic to replace it but they called BMW and were instructed to replace the thermostat instead and they did. It overheated again and the fan is running fast during idle. When I drive the heater will go cold and that's my heads-up that the yellow temp warning is about to kick on followed by red. Any suggestions?

  • Anonymous Feb 08, 2013

    hey i also have the same problem i replaced the water pump and the thermostat and my 325i is still over heating HELP?

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  • Posted on Jan 30, 2013
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This indicates that your coolant pump is shot. When it stops pumping the coolant gets hot inside the engine and throws the warning/alarm. The pump is driven by an electric motor (not engine belt) and it dies (a known problem with BMWs). I have the same car and it got shot at 77K miles, exacly the same problem. I was lucky I was crossing a BMW dealership when it happened. Get it towed immediately (DO NOT drive) to the dealer or a BMW auto repair garage and have the pump changed. Brace for a close to $1000 bill. May be less for you since you already changed the thermostat. Good luck.
PS: For those who don't know the answer ... please don't respond.

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  • Anonymous Jan 30, 2013

    This indicates that your coolant pump is shot. When it stops pumping the coolant gets hot inside the engine and throws the warning/alarm. The pump is driven by an electric motor (not engine belt) and it dies (a known problem with BMWs). I have the same car and it got shot at 77K miles, exacly the same problem. I was lucky I was crossing a BMW dealership when it happened. Get it towed immediately (DO NOT drive) to the dealer or a BMW auto repair garage and have the pump changed. Brace for a close to $1000 bill. May be less for you since you already changed the thermostat. Good luck.
    PS: For those who don't know the answer ... please don't respond.

  • Christian Castellano
    Christian Castellano Nov 07, 2014

    I think you are spot on. Same has happened to me, 70k. almost on the dot! I will do a diagnostic, get the codes and go from there. The thermostat, water pump, vanos, switch over foo foo valve, they are all electronic, so a diagnostic scan is essential.

  • Mark Struss
    Mark Struss Jun 01, 2015

    The coolant pump is most definitely not electric. The main fan is bolted to pump shaft. It is driven by the main serpentine belt. Only the auxiliary fan is electric. (There is also an auxiliary small water pump which is electric, but it is not for main engine cooling.) Whenever your car is overheating, the first thing you do is check and replace the water pump. Guarantee its failed. Next replace the thermostat, which you have already done. Finally, Given the age of your car, replace the main fan clutch. Thee fan may look like its spinning, but if the clutch has failed, it wont spin fast enough to cool the engine.

    PS: if you took it to a place that had to call BMW to ask what to do, for something simple like this, then you went to the wrong place. Do NOT take it to the local quick service place and think they will do ANYTHING on this car correctly. Save your money and go at least to an independent BMW mechanic. I guarantee he wont have to call the dealership to change the water pump.

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  • Posted on Jan 27, 2012
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Hard to say with out being able to diagnose it in person. BUT! I have seen on few occasions the impeller either disintegrate or come off the water pump shaft. I would also make sure that the coolant is full. sometimes an air pocket will cause the cooling system to "air lock" not allowing coolant to flow properly if not refilled properly.

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  • Anonymous Jan 27, 2012

    I actually had them look at the impeller and they said it was good. Stupid question but since the repairs it has only overheated once, could the t-stat be taking time to start working properly? I have checked the coolant level and I know it's good. I haven't had any water pump or cracked head symptoms either except just overheating. No smoke or leaking...really confusing...

  • Timmy L Costa
    Timmy L Costa Jan 27, 2012

    Like I said It is possible with todays engines. to have a "Air Lock" situation. Many times it will give an overheat condition which will break the airlock. then when filled again all is good. If your heat is working properly and (if you have a coolant temperature gauge) the coolant temp stays in the normal operating range. I would suspect you had an airlock that cleared with the overheat. Keep checking your coolant level and if you see no problems in about a weeks time ( depending on how and how much it is driven) I would say you should be good to go.

  • Timmy L Costa
    Timmy L Costa Jan 27, 2012

    If you are still having overheating issues. I would have the car scanned to see if the sensor may not be accurate. also have the radiator checked. If you are having poor heat this may be a sign of the cooling system getting plugged. If that is happening you will have poor heat displacement in the radiator. Making sure all components are working properly. Cooling fans coming on at the proper time etc...

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Possible stuck thermostat, or just a simple as low coolant. but on the worse case it could be a leaking head gasket!! Not somthing you want to do on your own unless its a task you feel comfortable with!!

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Ignition on,window must an up,and press and hold button window downHOLD,HOLD,5.second! Now press and hold button window upHOLD,HOLD,5.second! And last once again press and hold downHOLD,HOLD,5.second! That's it! Please Check out now,press button- window to pull up automatically So programmed with a window! if you need more windows, a process repeated at the next window.

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Did you ever replace the thermostat? If it is stuck then it would also cause overheating...Excessive exhaust backpressure because of a clogged catalytic converter could also cause overheating..Also check belt tension and condition. A loose belt that slips may prevent the water pump from circulating coolant fast enough and/or the fan from turning fast for proper cooling...Another thing it could be is a faulty Water pump -- Any wobble in the pump shaft or seepage would call for replacement. In some instances, a pump can cause an engine to overheat if the impeller vanes are badly eroded due to corrosion or if the impeller has come loose from the shaft. The wrong pump may also cause an engine to overheat. Some engines with serpentine drive belts require a special water pump that turns in the opposite direction of those used on the same engine with ordinary V-belts... Also check the Fan -- With mechanical fans, most overheating problems are caused by a faulty fan clutch, though a missing fan shroud can reduce the fan's cooling effectiveness by as much as 50% (depending on the fan's distance from the radiator) which may be enough to cause the engine to overheat in hot weather or when working hard.
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