Car having problems getting ignition..

bad starter, or low voltage

If you mean "Won't turn over but has power to starter" instead "Want turn over but but has power to starter" than change the starter. My guess, the pinion that shoots out the gear to turn the flywheel to achieve crank is broken and spins uselessly. When you turn the key you hear it spin but it can not turn the flywheel to start the vehicle. The other option is less likely but I have heard of someone trying to start a ceased engine so many times that the gear that turns the flywheel gets stripped and just spins.

It sounds like the starter is going bad. you may want to replace it before it destroys your flywheel. A lifetime replacement starter at autozone is about $125.00 plus instalation if this was helpfull please leave good feed back

The starter gets powered by the solenoid which is energized when the ignition key is turned to the start position. Look at the picture below and read the sequence of operation below it. Once you find out what is NOT happening - you can troubleshoot back from there.



The IGNITION KEY SWITCH is connected by a small wire to the terminal in the GREEN circle on the SOLENOID. The battery is connected by a thick, heavy cable to the terminal in the RED circle of the SOLENOID. The terminal in the YELLOW circle of the SOLENOID is connected to a thick, heavy cable that goes directly into the STARTER MOTOR.

The -12 volts from the battery is connected to the car's engine, frame and body. The entire car has -12 volts available to all electric (and mechanical) parts, so only one wire is needed to energize those parts.

When the key is held in the START position, +12 volts from the battery is passed through the IGNITION SWITCH to the GREEN terminal on the SOLENOID. This causes the SOLENOID to (1) become energized, (2) internally physically connects the +12 volts RED terminal to the YELLOW terminal and (3) physically engages the STARTER to the engine's flywheel. When this happens, the +12 volts from the battery appears on the YELLOW terminal; and directly into the STARTER MOTOR. The STARTER MOTOR spins. Since it is engaging the flywheel, the flywheel turns too and the engine attempts to start. Once the engine is running, the key is released. The SOLENOID (1) becomes de-energized (2) opens the physical connection between the RED and YELLOW terminals, (3) disengages the STARTER MOTOR from the flywheel and the STARTER MOTOR stops spinning.

I hope this helps!

Hi, diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit.

Ten Reasons why you car won't start..

1. Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
2. Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
3. Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
4. Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
5. Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
6. Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
7. Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
8. Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
9. Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
10. Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Hope it helps identify and solve the problem

Hi, this is what you should do when your car won't start. Diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit. Check it out.....

• Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
• Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
• Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
• Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
• Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
• Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
• Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
• Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
• Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
• Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Starter grabs the flywheel of the engine and gives it a spin so that the engine starts running when getting fuel and spark.
If you cannot start the car (starter 'dead') the reason is usually the solenoid switch. The more expensive option is that hte starter itself has broken (unlikely).

Remove the starter shields and check the starter drive. Does it fly out when the starter is engaged? Check the flywheel for ring gear damage from the starter. Check the flywheel for breakage at the crankshaft, try to turn the engine using the flywheel with a screw driver.

The problem is either in the mechanism that pushes the rod that activates the ignition switch from the key lock cylinder, or the ignition switch is defective.