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Anonymous Posted on Jan 26, 2012

1992 2.6L MERCEDES 190E VACUUM HOSE SCHEMATICS

Transmission vacuum hose diagram

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 64 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 28, 2008

SOURCE: transmission problem 1993 190e 2.6 mercedes

Hi!
Base on the information gaven it seems that your forward clutch pack is worn,thats the reason you have seen that metal shaving in the transmission pan.So get your transmission repair.

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Greg Bernett

  • 2993 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 14, 2009

SOURCE: what transmission fluid can I use in my 1993 Mercedes Benz 190E

LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS
Engine Oil
Grade 1......SL
SAE 0W-30 Synthetic Signature Series Oil
Synthetic 5W-40 European Engine Oil
SAE 10W-40 Synthetic High Performance Motor Oil
SAE 5W-30 XL Synthetic Motor Oil
Above 5°F......15W-40, 15W-50
Above -4°F......10W-30, 10W-40, 10W-50, 10W-60
Above 23°F......20W-40, 20W-50

Please don't forget to rate!!!!

Anonymous

  • 362 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 14, 2009

SOURCE: what transmission fluid can I use in my 1993 Mercedes Benz 190E

AF3 onepx.gif DEXRON®-III Automatic Transmission Fluid
BMW: Power steering use AF3; Models with combined power steering,
hydraulic brake booster, self-leveling suspension system use SLF
Mercedes-Benz: Use only manufacturer approved fluid


Look on the back of the bottle of fluid you are looking to buy, if it does not say is is approved by MB, don't use it.

Bill Hackett

  • 383 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 24, 2009

SOURCE: Vacuum diagram of Mercedes 190D, 2,2

neto 190D: You are asking about a vacuum diaphragm?
I'm going to take a WAG.. Your engine won't shut
down with the key?
If so, he is the way you find out:
In your injection pump, the vacuum diaphragm which kills the engine is the one which has the fitting pointing parallel to the ground.
The vacuum line which serves it is a brown/blue
To check the system, first check for vacuum in the line. Run the engine for a minute or so. Cap off the brown/blue line.
Turn the ignition switch off and then with hose in hand, uncap it and you should hear a hissing sound. If you have a vacuum guage, obviously, use it for the test, you need a minimum of 10 inches to kill it.
To test the pump diaphragm, you can rig a vacuum line to a known vacuum source close to the main "T". Run the engine and with the line connected to the diaphragm, connect it to the good vacuum source, if it kill the engine, the diaphragm is good. If you have a hand vacuum pump it would be more ideal, because you could check the diaphragm for small leaks.
If the diaphragm is bad, it is easy to replace on the pump.
The shutoff diaphragm lists for $86.00
Is my shot in the dark correct?
Even though I am a Nissan Master tech, I also specialize in Mercedes-Benz and specifically Diesels, so if you need help, I'm here. I went through a few Mercedes Schools and have been swinging Iron in Mercedes since the 70's
I might be a little more informative than the public library.

Anonymous

  • 203 Answers
  • Posted on May 29, 2009

SOURCE: vacuum testing on Mercedes diesel 123 chassis not making sense

Everything on this vehicle is vacuum operated. going into the vehicle at the left rear of engine compartment there are color coded vac. lines-green a/c,yellow central locking,black shutoff diaphragm, clear source, yellow w/red stripe reservoir. any one of these could be a potential leak of vac. On diesel engines they have too high of compression to produce vac. so M.B. put a vac. pump on the front of the engine which is driven by your camshaft. Usually engine vac. changes rapidly with throttle position but because this vac. is not as easily controlled there is a separate control valve called a aneroid compensator that meters the vac. to your modulator on your transmission. It can be adjusted but it requires a special tool( basically it is a dial wheel that fits onto the post of the compensater). I would first make sure your rubber grommet is not torn on your modulator valve. If it is it will need to be replaced. If you remove that grommet you will see a metal plunger which can be grabbed with needle nose pliers and rotated to the left or right. I believe right is a firmer shift and left is a softer shift. stat by rotating approx. 1/2 turn to the left and see how the shifting feels. My first suggestion is to unplug the green and yellow vac. lines and see if the trans. shifts better. On your valve cover is a lever labeled off in case you lose vac. to the shutoff diaphragm. Become familiar with that lever so you can shutoff your engine in case you accidentally unplug the shutoff valve. you will probably find either your central locking or a/c system is the root of the problem.

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