1995 Volvo 940 Logo
Catherine Dorsey Posted on Jan 22, 2012

My 1995 940 Volvo just lost power while driving and stopped. After trying to restart the car it seemed like it just wasn't getting gas.

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John Harris

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  • Posted on Sep 08, 2012
John Harris
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I had the same problem and fixed it with only one nut to remove and one easy plug in part the Crankshaft Position Sensor is located between the firewall and the engine on the bell housing which connects the engine to the driveshaft Right on the top shine a light down in there and remove the nut to the left of the sensor sticking up and unplug it check the wires to see if they are rotted mine were all rotted and touching eachother went and bought the part at autozone for $55 plugged it in and it now works perfectly! hope this helps

5 Related Answers

mx5turbo92

mx5turbo92

  • 545 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 04, 2009

SOURCE: I need to replace the fuel pump in my 940 Volvo.

Disconnect battery ground strap before beginning to work on the fuel/electrical system. Do not smoke or have anything in the area which can ignite or cause sparks

  1. Drain enough fuel from tank to prevent spilling, no more than 4 gallons (16 liters) of fuel should remain. Use suitable pumping equipment.
  2. Remove floor mat and panel from trunk.
  1. Disconnect wiring harness connector to sending unit. Remove wires from connector.
  2. Disconnect ground wire to sender. Push wires through grommet.
  3. Remove cover for access to tank sending unit.
  1. All models: Disconnect from the fuel tank sending unit:
    1. Breather hose C
    2. Return hose A
    3. Supply hose B
    4. Filler hose D
    5. Wiring harness from clip E
  1. Clean area and unscrew fuel tank sender/pump cap or equivalent. Remove tank sender/pump and seal.
  2. Remove pump from sender/pump assembly.
INSTALLATION
  1. Inspect the pump for damage, feed pump hose and wiring for wear. Replace as needed.
  2. Install new pump to sender/pump assembly.
  3. Install rubber seal in neck of tank. Lubricate inside of seal.
  1. Install fuel tank sender/pump unit. Align it with the moulded joint (arrows) on tank.
  2. Apply rustproofing compound to exposed metal portions of tank sender.
CAUTION : With tape or rubber caps, protect fuel sender openings from overspray.
  1. Torque fuel tank sender/pump lock ring to: 22 ft-lb (30 Nm)
  2. Reassemble components in reverse order. Use tie straps to secure all hoses and wiring.

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Anonymous

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  • Posted on Oct 15, 2008

SOURCE: 940 GL Stall problem

My 1992 940 Turbo has had stall problems. On the two last occasions I replaced hoses, which solved my problem.

rustfarmer

David Harrelson

  • 5456 Answers
  • Posted on May 10, 2009

SOURCE: 1995 Volvo 940 flywheel

1995 940 has a crank position sensor mounted at the top rear of the engine which reads cranks position off the flywheel. Though not adjustable, it is a part which fails often causing weird and intermittent no start/hard start problems as well as other faults. While the part is not too expensive, you do have to crawl on top of the engine to see it, and its a pain to replace. Guess you could remove the hood, but I have changed mine without doing so. Get light on the area,and you can do it. If you are having timing too far advanced issues (running on when killing engine or "pinging" on acceleration several other parts may be suspect. Knock sensor, spark plug issues, carbon buildup, O2 sensor, lean condition and more. Good luck.

Anonymous

  • 137 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 08, 2009

SOURCE: lambda-sond light stays on, on my Kreg volvo 940.

well you have to change it and your car is not very envirmently friendly with the lambda sensor you will use extra fuel, it will run shity........ get an mouth spaner and loosen it and unplug it and twist it out..

Anonymous

  • 236 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 28, 2010

SOURCE: replacing fuel pump on 1992 Volvo 940

look in autozone, look up the part n then click on "view job diagram" hope that helps

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The worst case would be a failing fuel pump (they tend to be pricey, and are a pain to change).

Another possibility is contamination in the fuel tank such as dirt, rust flakes or solid products of fuel degradation - this would clog up the new fuel filter very quickly. It wouldn't be good for the fuel pump either. Check the tank for signs of corrosion, especially around the filler tube. A quick test of the filter is to disconnect the outlet side first - if you get just a dribble of fuel out of there, then a good stream of gas from the inlet side, that is an indication of a clogged filter and therefore a tank problem. You could try to siphon or pump a sample of fuel from the bottom of the tank through the filler tube for inspection.

A third possibility is a sensor or computer problem. It seems unlikely a single-point failure would take out all of the injectors unless it's the injector power common. Maybe the engine computer uses a single buffer chip to drive the fuel injector transistors, or there's a bad power bypass capacitor for the injector power. Engines don't usually stall on sensor failures - they keep running, but often with degraded performance, and you'll get a check engine code. Check for voltage on the fuel pump relay before changing it - when the engine is on, there should be 12 V on the coil, and 0 Volts on the contacts. If you get voltage across the normally open (NO) contacts when the coil is energized, the relay contacts are bad. (The tricky part is getting at the relay socket terminals with the relay in place.)
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