Changing a CV joint

cv joints should not click as that is the first indication of a failed unit
( going slow and changing direction produces a click,click is a cv joint)
wheel bearings should not be tight as that will produce a humming noise and will result in early failure
because the axle turns with the change of direction ,the distance from the pivot point to the transmission changes and so the shaft will move in and out of the transmission to compensate
take it to an accredited drive line specialist for a diagnosis

I can tell you how to replace the CV joint but it is by far better to just buy a re-manufactured axle. The price of the CV joint itself then the labor to remove the axle, change the joint and install it is a big pain. Changing just the CV joint is labor intensive and you could run in to problems. Don't risk it, but a rebuilt.

change your cv joints or universal joints

it is generally cheaper any easier to replace with a remanufactured shaft.

replace the entire CV axles. Support vehicle with jackstands by frame. Remove front wheels. Remove axle nuts. Remove lower balljoint nut. Separate balljoint from nuckle by banging hard with ball peen hammer on knuckle on spindle assy. Remove outer tie-rod nut. Separate tie-rod from steering nuckle by bangin on nuckle with ball-peen hammer. Use long pry bar to hold lower control arm down while simultaneously pulling hub/spindle assembly away from vehicle and pushing axle through hub toward transaxle. Go under vehicle and pry inner cv joint away from transaxle while holding axle assembly.
Install new CV axle in reverse of the disassembly.

A good shop mechanic can do it in a little over an hour. Front. If your doing it for the first time it will take you half a day IF you have all the right tools.
The at home hard part is sepearting the lower control arm ball joints. The rear CV joints take longer (if so equipped) as it takes longer to move everything out of the way so you can pull it out.

Easy enough job really, jack car up, put axel stand under. remove wheel - remove hub nut, remove pinch bolt - prise open the pinch bolt part (sorry cant rem name) pop out the hub from the lower arm. Remove CV join from drive shaft. Usually a tap will pop it out.. sometimes theres a circlip that need removing (models vary). Grease up new CV joint - put grease in new boot, pop boot over drive shaft. put cv join on (replace circlip if provided in kit). join cv to hub - attach CV boot fully. fasten hub nut, replace wheel.

done. might need tracking again or aligning once you do this.

there are tow types, with ABS and W/O ABS, they come as a half shaft assmebly, this is a axle and CV joint together. here are the 2 part numbers for left and right axle with CV joint. Price and Part s are from www.rockauto.com, the lowest price on the internet I could find, very fast shipping.

THESE ARE FOR THE RIGHT SIDE AXLE AND CV JOINT ASSEMBLY.
A-1 CARDONE Part # 604153 {[CV Half-Shaft Assembly] Reman.}
Front Right; w/ABS
$42.99

A-1 CARDONE Part # 604152 {[CV Half-Shaft Assembly] Reman.}
Front Right; w/o ABS
$42,99

THESE ARE LEFT SIDE AXLE AND CV JOINT ASSEMBLY.
A-1 CARDONE Part # 604155 {[CV Half-Shaft Assembly] Reman.}
Front Left; w/M.T. w/ABS
$53.79

A-1 CARDONE Part # 604150 {[CV Half-Shaft Assembly] Reman.}
Front Left; w/A.T. w/o ABS
$51.79

The cv is changed out as a rebuit unit. Buy axle CV Replacement at parts store. Go from there. The part will tell you what you need to do. good luck.

Usually the indication is around corners the CV joint will make a popping sound. You can also tear the boot on the CV joint, but my theory is just to drive it until it makes noise. No sense in changing it when there is still life in the old one.
Really the only thing that goes wrong is the CV joint portion of the shaft wears out, except accidents and other unforeseen instances.
You can buy lifetime warranty axle shafts from Auto Zone or Advance and those kinds of parts stores.