Rear Brakes Passenger side rear brakes keep burning up. Wheel cylinder pistons do not seem to be retracting. Drivers side rear works fine. Put new shoes, wheel cylinder cups, seals and new springs did not solve problem. Help!!!

Your description sounds like the brakes are WAY out of adjustment. The brake cylinders need the shoes to hit the drum or they will do exactly what you describe. I always adjust the shoes until they lock the wheel, then back off until the wheel spins freely, usually 8 to 20 clicks.

if the brakes over extend the cylinders will pop, make sure you have properly adjusted the brakes, also make sure the emergency brake cable is working and not stuck partway on which will hold the shoes away from the cylinder.
the shoes should be adjusted so that you spin the wheel and it turns twice and stops.

In this case, you will need to leak the for wheels, never leak only one or two wheels when adjusting the breaks. If the leaking continues you need to check the conduit for potential damages. If pedal stay soft after checking everything else, check the break fluid unit. The unit has a piston if I'm not wrong. The piston has some parts that are of rubber material which can wear out or get damaged.

Hi Chris, The brake system is basically very simple. If you have duel braking on your vehicle, the usual method is having two brakes operate on the front with for example the left rear and the other system will also operate two front and the right rear. This type of system will have two calipers on each of the front wheels. The tandem system works in a slightly different way, having the forward part of the cylinder pressurizing the rear brakes and the rear part of the cylinder pressurizing the front. I think under the circumstances you are describing, I would have a friend sit inside and pump the brakes repeatedly until the system becomes pressurized (maybe twenty thirty times of pumping the brake pedal) and then ask him or her to keep it pushed firmly down until you find out where its leaking. The amount of brake fluid you report having been sed would indecate a severe leakage. Check the lower parts of the rear wheels for signs of leaking wheel cylinders and then dito for the front wheels. Any signs of wetness at these areas and along the brake system (the plumbing or pipe work) will indicate where the leakage is. If you cannot identify a wheel which is leaking, carefully inspect around and blow the master cylinder and if this no sign go along the fluid lines, taking special note of where the damaged pipe was repaired. If there is a blockage in the line, air may be trapped at that point causing difficulty in pressurizing. Once the place of leakage has been identified it must be attended to before bleeding the system. When bleeding, begin with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder, and work your way back to the master cylinder one wheel at a time, until you reach the closest.Keep in mind that you may find it required to pump the pedal many many times before opening the bleed nipple.Regards John

One side,turns right,and push in slightly,and the other side turns left,to retract.

The parking brake problem could have started the problem you are having in the coldest weather. Some may disagree but look carefully at the emergency cable parts. The cable is suppose to equalize the pressure to each wheel. Some of the rear brakes are made to automatically adjust the SERVICE brakes when you use the emergency brakes. Therefore if the emergency brakes are not automatically tightening the SERVICE brakes, you can get excessive play in the "star" wheel and the flat rod that spans both shoes.

This means that the brake cylinder pistons can travel
too far in the cylinder and are trying to bridge the gap. The hold-down pins and springs are loose too.

You can also have moisture in the rear brake lines and the "Brake warning light" is coming on because the proportioning valve is not returning to center in the lines. You should have a power bleed job with a cleaner run through the system and new fluid. That may fix the problem without checking the adjustment of the rear brakes.

well your master cylinder would be most peoples guess however i am over qualified in hydraulic and air break systems you need to replace your equalizer valve its on the frame on the drivers side of the vehicle

ITS POSS FOR IT TO BE THE WEIGHT VALVE IF THERE ONE FITTED IF YOU LOOK UNDER THE CAR NEAR CENTER OF REAR AXLE YOU SHOULD SEE A BOX WERE THE BOTH SIDES BRAKE PIPES GO TO THIS SHOULD HAVE A ARM ON IT WITH A SPRING.. THIS WORKS WHEN YOU PUT EXSTRA WEIGHT IN BOOT ETC IT ALTERS THE BRAKING POWER TO HELP WITH THE WEIGHT ETC. THIS IS PROB FAULTLY ,, AND NOT LETTING TO FLUID FLOW BACK

1. Possible air in Driver side rear giving pass side upper hand so to speak
2. Has drum ever been wet with brake fluid?
3. driver side REAR self Adjuster rusty and not working properly
4. Sticky Wheel cylinder at rear driver side

Still have air inside, because you used gravity feed method.