Leaking oil from oil cap

Dear Sir,
Here is the oil leaking Problem Identifying Technique

Engine oil leaks from the valve cover gasket are common.

The intake manifold plenum gasket may leak and cause increased oil consumption/burning and a spark knock during acceleration; the gasket should be replaced.

External oil leaks from valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets (front or rear), and the rear crankshaft (rear main) seal area are common. The rear main seal is an unlikely source. Normally, the bearing cap mating surfaces (as well as the sealing surface between the oil pan and bearing cap) are the source for the leaks.

Engine oil leaks at the distributor can be misdiagnosed as leaks from theintake manifold seal, oil pan gasket, or rear crankshaft (rear main) seal. A revised distributor is available if oil is found inside the distributor.

If the oil filter casing shows signs of distortion from excessive oil pressure, theoil pump should be replaced.

Often misdiagnosed as a leaking oil filter gasket, the oil filter adapter can seep from between the adapter and engine block.

Carbon buildup on the top of the piston is common. As the buildup increases with mileage and over time, symptoms may vary from light ticking, to ticking/hammering, to hammering/knocking noises. Fuel injector cleaner often solves the problem.

I think it helps to analyse u r Problem

There is a replaceable rubber seal in the oil cap. The dealer is supposed to replace it every oil change. The stock ones are around $0.40 and an almost lifetime one is available for $10 from IPD. Are you certain it is the Oil cap leaking from the seal or is the PCV system clogged?
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5884/115315-ipd-hd-viton-oil-cap-seal

It is recommended that you lift out the engine before attempting to replace the oil pan. Once the engine is lifted you can remove the bolts, remove the pan, clean all the old gasket material.
Installation: Remove the rear main bearing cap oil seal Remove the timing cover oil seal Clean all the mating surfaces and seal grooves Install new oil pan front cover seals Install a new rear main bearing cap oil seal Install new oil pan side gaskets on the block Make sure the tabs of the front and rear seal fit properly as these are critical spots Attach the oil pan to the engine block and install the retaining bolts

That seal typically comes with a pack that includes all the cam bearing seals and the valve covers seals. It very easy to replace. Remove the valve cover and discard the old seal, remove the old cam shaft bearing cap seals. Replace the bearing cap seals and the valve cover seal and replace the cap and cover. Tighten the bolts to about 30 lbs and that should resolve the problem.

Go buy a can of Berryman's Chemtool B-12 (Auto Zone, Rieley's, WalMart, etc.). Have tools, oil, filter and drain pan on hand for oil change. Warm engine to operating temperature. SLOWLY add can of Berryman's to crankcase of running engine through long funnel. Adding too quickly will kill idling engine, so go slow. After adding, replace oil filler cap and allow to fast idle (2000 rpm or less) for 30 minutes. Turn off engine and drain oil immediately. remove dirty oil filter. Let drain for 30 minutes. Replace plug, spin on new filter, add oil (do not overfill); start with 4 qts. and start briefly and then turn off. let stand for 20 minutes and check with dipstick. Add slowly to bring oil up to full mark; NOT ABOVE. You have just repaired your leaking rear main seal. Berryman's softens and expands rubber seals, stopping 95% of leaks caused by dried out rubber seals. DO NOT use this on cars/trucks that use the old fashioned rope seals. Ask a parts man what kind of seal a 98 Durango has. It washes the wax off the rope and it will leak worse than before. Ray (garage owner)

ENGINE MISSING CAN BE WEAK COIL.BAD PLUGS AND WIRES.REPLACE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR.FUEL FILTER STOPPED UP ALSO FUEL INJECTORS CLOGGED UP CAUSES MISSING.CHECK UNDERNEATH CAR WHILE IDLING.IF YOU LOSING A LOT OF OIL.FRONT CRANKSHAFT SEAL OR REAR MAIN SEAL LEAKING OIL.LEAKING VALVE COVERS.DO A COMPRESSION TEST.AND CHECK CONDITIONS OF SPARK PLUGS.IF PLUGS SOAKED IN OIL.VALVE GUIDES + SEAL LEAKING OIL IN COMBUSTION CHAMBER.

Is it leaking arond it? Replace oring seal. Is it leaking from where the cap seals the the distributor? Replace the distributor.

Take the car to a car wash and power wash the engine. Do this ONLY with a cold engine. And be prepared to have problems with it starting as water get's into the electrical components. Take some WD-40 with you to spray inside distributor caps, on spark wiring, etc. to get the engine running again.

Then check the engine weekly to see where the oil is coming from.

presuming the oil is coming from around the filler cap..theres usualy a rubber seal around the base, these can become brittle and break,sometimes quite a large piece (1/4 inch) can break off making a fair old leak from the oil splashing around from the cam, replace it with a NEW one, should cure problem

Your info is confusing. The rear cam seal is not inside the timing belt cover, and the crank seal is at the bottom of the engine, while the cam seal is at the top.

Is there oil at the top, around the cam seal? Or just at the bottom? It's common for the oil pump seal to leak. If you get the oil pump reseal kit, it contains the oil pump seal and gasket, as well as the crankshaft seal. Make sure you seal the oil pump bolts, Volvo has special copper washers for this purpose.

Just try to locate the oil leak before replacing any more parts. Sometimes it can be something simple like the oil cap seal or the oil trap housing.


Bret
RepairPal.com