Ford 2004 f250 king ranch v10 6.8 brakes are not working.

What's causing this transmission leak? - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

www.ford-trucks.com > ... > 1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke DieselJun 14, 2011 - I've never had a drop of fluid leak from my transmission until yesterday. I towed a very heavy ... 2011 Ford F250 King Ranch SB CC. Magnum ... 2002 F250: Transmission fluid dripping (pic)
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New to FixYa-not sure how this works.Soft brake are typically associated to a fluid/ master cylynder issue. Without viewing & knowing particulars via driving habits, mileage, etc, it is hard to duduce specific issues. Your front brakes have greater stopping pressures than the rear brakes which means they wear down quicker than the rear brakes. If you have a soft/mushy pedal, you may have worn brake pads which also leads to the brake fluid resevoir being low (shoe diminishment to increased fluid use-ratio)-you can fill the resevoir and pump up/ solidify the pedal but when you replace the pads, the fluid will overflow the resevoir.There are also indicators on brake pads that cause a high pitch squealing when the pads are low-again, without a visual or specific info like "do you hear any squealing while braking, how many miles on vehicle-the current set of brakes, do you tow anything, etc...", it is hard to diagnose; kind of like a doctor diagnosing a belly ache over the phone - there are so many factors/variables from the vagueness, it makes the situation a "guessing game"..If you can include more definitive info, it may narrow down the issue without a visual inspection. There are a lot of other components that could be the issues but the pads/low fluid will be the most common.Hope this does not cause more harm than good. G2

-Fix the leaking.
-Top brake fluid to " Full" level.
-Break again. (Recommend all 4 sides)
-Refill the reservoir to full level. You should be good to go.

Good luck

Mai

You will need to bleed the brake system. I would start with the rear brakes lines and work towards the front.You must have key off engine off when bleeding brakes, apply pressure on brake pedal 10 times and hold. The brake line is now ready to be open. Open and let the stream of fluid come out and close the line tight. Then release brake pedal once bleeder screw is close. This procedure must be repeated twice front and back. After, brakes have been bleed pump the brake pedal before putting in drive.
Note: Don't let the resevoir run low on brake fluid. This will cause air bubbles to accumulate on the brake system. Always top off before opening bleeder screw.

About the only thing left is to replace the caliper. I've seen a few times, but not common. Piston gets bound on corrosion in caliper and doesn't retract completely.

hi from the uk have had this problem on a customers car b4 who had replaced frot calipers and pads and pedal went to floor on inspection of caliper i found that the steel spring clip that fits into two holes in the front face of caliper and must also locate behind the caliper carrierbehind two lugs was fitted incorrectly it had been fitted behind the outer pad resulting in when brake pedal off ?the caliper being floating type as it is known because it is fixed by two screw pins/bolts and moves on these pins/bolts as pads wear ? what happens is the spring fitted wrongly ? actually pushes against the outer pad and as a result the caliper piston is pushed back into its cylinder slightly as it moves on the locating pins/bolts resulting in pedal going to floor on 1st application but if pumped ? some brake pedal force is felt but is lost again when pedal released ? so try this ? remove the steel clips from both front calipers that retain caliper to carriers then press brake/pump pedal ? if as suggested above works? your pedal should pump up and remain ok when you release and still be firm when re applied ? all above is what i found on ford ford but many other models use similar calipers and spring locating recheck how this spring should locate hope this helps ? good luck

brake indicator switch is stuck check behind brake pedal to see if switch is free moving or floor mat is touching

The problem is likely either the brake booster which is vacuum powered or the brake master cylinder -- brake booster would be leaking air, master cylinder would be leaking fluid by the O-ring on the piston (internally "leaking by").

This sounds more like a booster failure since the pedal gets soft when engine is started. But probably a good idea to replace both at the same time.

More info, please let me know.

Charlie

For front brake pads replacement you need only usually wrench set, inclusive 7 mm allen key also. But for rear brake pads replacement you need obligatory a special caliper piston pressing tool, in order to press back rear caliper piston with parking brake automatic adjustment!!! For front brake pads. First you must verify yours front brake disc diameter: 280 mm or 288 mm. (On my car y have 288 mm). After that you can buy the brake pads (with wear sensor). For change front brake pads you must raise vehicle, remove wheels, extract the retaining spring of the caliper, and remove the caliper as follow: 1. Do not disconnect the brake hose from the caliper, and do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose! 2. Remove top and bottom caps (on back side of the caliper) for access to guide pins, then unbolt and remove them from the brake carrier. Remove the caliper. 3. Now you must thoroughly clean the brake calipers (free of grease). 4. Remove outer brake pad from brake carrier. 5. Pull inner brake pad out of brake caliper piston. 6. Check up the brake fluid level on the reservor, and emptying if neccessary! 7. Push piston back into brake caliper housing. 8. Install inner brake pad (with expanding spring) in brake caliper piston. (Arrow marked on pad - if exist, must point in direction of brake disc rotation when vehicle is moving forward). 9. Install outer brake pad into brake carrier. 10. Bolt brake caliper housing to brake carrier using two guide pins. Tightening torque is 25 Nm. 11. Install both caps. 12. Insert retaining spring into brake caliper housing. Important: Depress the brake pedal firmly several times while the car is stationary so that the brake pads adjust to their normal operating positions!!! Check brake fluid level and top up if neccessary!!!

Raise the rear of the truck off the ground using jacks. Support the vehicle on both sides with jack stands to prevent it from tipping over. 
Loosen the lug nuts on the wheels and remove the wheels assembly and set aside, face up, to prevent damage.
Disconnect the caliper bolts and remove the brake caliper. Use mechanic's wire to fasten the caliper to your truck's side rail. Take out the outer disc brake pads followed by the inner pads.
Compress the brake piston into the caliper bore using a C-clamp. Replace the inner brake pads followed by the outer brake pads. Remove the C-clamp.
Remove the mechanic's wire from the caliper. Lay the caliper over the pads, fasten it down and tighten the caliper bolts with the torque wrench to 26 ft. lb.
Replace the wheels and lower the vehicle to the ground. Bleed the brakes if necessary and check the brake performance during a short test drive.
Good luck and hope this helps.