I replaced the 1972 engine with the 1975 3.0si What I would like to know is this effected the differential I have a noise from that area. I replaced both rear axle brackets and new shocks. In the past ten years the car maybe went 20 miles. I am 73 and have been working on the car for over eight years and this I hope is my last problem. Thanks
You would only experience problems from the diff if there was a substantial increase in torque from the different engine as there would be less than 10% difference in torque ratings , Any noise from the diff would be naturally occurring from wear or oil
diff noises indicating bearing problems are a whine on drive or coasting , an growl on deceleration and a harmonic whine or growl when the vehicle is held at steady speed Other than those indications , I would be more inclined to suspect wheel bearings and brake associated noises
wheel bearings are normally more pronounced on cornering
SOURCE: Rear Axle Repair/Replacement
Unless the axles are somehow damaged all you will need to replace are the axle seals and the brake shoes themselves,
SOURCE: center differential
What you are discribing sure sounds like CV (constant volocity) joint noise from the axle(s), diff's don't make crunching noises, they whine and howl when they go bad, I will say this about your problem, you did not have it before the work was done, so it's a fair guess it has something to do with the work done, make them fix it, do you agree?
SOURCE: remove front axle from differential on 2003 dodge ram
That works fine on a relatively new vehicle but one that has run in salt etc you'll save a lot of time if you remove the steering knuckle completey by separating lower ball joint and outer tie rod end ball joint and bring the whole steering knuckle to a bench to separate the hub/bearing. Soak everything with penetrant, loosen the bolts a few turns and try hitting right on the bolt heads. I also made a very sharp wedge from a chisel and rammed it hard on the other side to seoarate the hub. It will finally come apart then you'll see all the **** that was binding it due to an alumininum knuckle re-acting with a steel hub. Clean the hole and grease everything and fit new bearings
SOURCE: 2003 chevy suburban front axle noise
Worn side bearings is where the noise is coming from and might as well do both sides, I used replace them in about 2-4 hours, depending on where Murphy happened to be. Disconnect both side inner CV joint, front prop shaft and the 4X4 actuator line. If you want to drop the front pumpken. Not sure if you have enough room if you want to change the bearing without removing the pumpken from the frame. You should see when you disconnect the CV shaft.
The front diffs are toys compared to the rear, if you use auto4wd too much there are bearings in your tranfer case that are similar to the side bearings in the front diff. In both appearance and durability and soon you'll replace those too.
Good luck and keep me posted.
SOURCE: front axle differential on 2000 chevy silverado
Your pickup leaks just like everyone elses. what you need to do is go down to your local parts store and get an inline fuel filter (your local chevy dealer should also have these available just for this problem), preferably see thru then, where your vent runs up the inner fender cut the line about 4 inches down from the vent and install the filter. this will cure your problem
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I have a locking grinding sound from the differential box. I have replaced all the adjacent parts. The car lacks strong Three questions.
(l.) Would the replacing of a 6 cyl. automatic 1972 3,os engine with a 1995 3.osi have an effect on the differential. .(2) Looking for a kit to rebuild differential. (3) Looking for used or rebuilt differential. Have searched wed to no avail. Thank you for your help.
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