Some time of /on/the abs lite/ and make a nois

can you do me a favor just unplug the abs module lead, and check that part first then get back to me on here. it is very rare that an abs sensor fails. its always down to the wiring plugs. and a car wash will throw the water in the engine bay, not like road water and any seal that are weak or cracked will be the first problem. plus engine dieing is a good sing the abs unit is not working at all. bad part is if the unit is not completely damaged. if the engine starts without the abs plugged in. but will not when its plugged in. can be a problem with the abs control unit board.

Try checking the brake pedal limit switch located at the top of the pedal.I have a 2006 Kia sportage and the switch came loose causing the esc light to com on and the brake lights to saty on. this may not be your problem but, I hope it helps.

the pedal kicking back is your abs system working, if this happens mostly at low speed you probly have a bad wheel sensor on 1 of the front wheels, common gm truck problem

Emergency brake handles or pedals on most vehicles should be locked on about half of it's throw, approx. 8 to 12 clicks if it' s a clicking type.

the problem on that year of the pick up if the abs sistem is not working right the rear weels lock up with just touchin the brake pedal there are three sensors one on the rear end and one on each front weel most of the time the front sensors get dirty and that afect the sistem that truck is runing 13 year time to clean those sensors the one on the rear end had to be clean wen you change the oil

try this ABS bleeding procedure:

WITHOUT TECH 1® OR T-100®

Do not place your foot on the brake pedal through this entire procedure unless specifically instructed to do so.
This method can only be used if the ABS warning lamp is not illuminated and not DTC's are present.

1. Remove your foot from the brake pedal.
2. Start the engine and allow it to run for at least 10 seconds while observing the ABS warning lamp.
3. If the ABS warning lamp turned ON and stayed ON after about 10 seconds, the bleeding procedure must be stopped and a Tech 1® must be used to diagnose the ABS function.
4. If the ABS warning lamp turned ON for about 3 seconds, then turned OFF and stayed OFF, turn the ignition OFF .
5. Repeat Steps 1-4 one more time.
6. The entire brake system should now be bled by following the guide or pressure bleeding procedure.

Manual Bleeding
See Figure 3

1. Clean the master cylinder fluid reservoir cover and surrounding area, then remove the cover.
2. Add fluid, if necessary to obtain a proper fluid level, then put the reservoir cover back on.
3. Prime the ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder assembly as follows:
   1. Attach a bleeder hose to the rearward bleeder valve, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
   2. Slowly open the rearward bleeder valve.
   3. Depress and hold the brake pedal until the fluid begins to flow.
   4. Close the valve, then release the brake pedal.
   5. Repeat Steps 3b-3d until no air bubbles are present.
   6. Relocate the bleeder hose to the forward hydraulic modulator bleeder valve, then repeat Steps 3a-3e.
   
   
4. Once the fluid is seen to flow from both modulator bleeder valves, the ABS modulator/master cylinder assembly is sufficiently full of fluid. However, it may not be completely purged of air. At this point, move to the wheel brakes and bleed them. This ensures that the lowest points in the system are completely free of air and then the assembly can purged of any remaining air.

Fig. Fig. 3: ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder bleeder locations

1. Remove the fluid reservoir cover. Fill to the correct level, if necessary, then fasten the cover.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Proceed, as outlined in the following steps, to bleed the wheel brakes in the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front, then left front.
   1. Attach a clear plastic bleeder hose to the bleeder valve at the wheel, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
   2. Open the bleeder valve.
   3. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal.
   4. Close the valve and slowly release the release the brake pedal.
   5. Wait 5 seconds.
   6. Repeat Steps 7a-7e until the brake pedal feels firm at half travel and no air bubbles are observed in the bleeder hose. To assist in freeing the entrapped air, tap lightly on the caliper or braking plate to dislodge any trapped air bubbles.
   
   
4. Repeat Step 7 for the remaining brakes in the sequence given earlier.
5. Carefully lower the vehicle.
6. Remove the reservoir cover, then fill to the correct level with brake fluid and replace the cap.
7. Bleed the ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder assembly as follows:
   1. Attach a clear plastic bleeder hose to the rearward bleeder valve on the modulator, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
   2. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal with moderate force.
   3. Slowly open the rearward bleeder valve and allow the fluid to flow.
   4. Close the valve, then release the brake pedal.
   5. Wait 5 seconds.
   6. Repeat Steps 11a-11e until no air bubbles are present.
   7. Relocate the bleeder hose to the forward hydraulic modulator bleeder valve, then repeat Steps 11a-11f.
   
   
8. Carefully lower the vehicle, then check the brake fluid and add if necessary. Don't forget to put the reservoir cap back on.
9. With the ignition turned to the RUN position, apply the brake pedal with moderate force and hold it. Note the pedal travel and feel. If the pedal feels firm and constant and the pedal travel is not excessive, start the engine. With the engine running, recheck the pedal travel. If it's still firm and constant and pedal travel is not excessive, road test the vehicle and make sure the brakes are operating properly.
10. If the pedal feels soft or has excessive travel either initially or after the engine is started, the following procedure may be used:
    1. With the Tech 1® scan tool, Release then Apply each motor 2-3 times and cycle each solenoid 5-10 times. When finished, be sure to Apply the front and rear motors to ensure the pistons are in the upmost position. DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE.
    2. If a Tech 1® scan tool is not available, remove your foot from the brake pedal, start the engine and allow it run for at least 10 seconds to initialize the ABS. DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE. After 10 seconds, turn the ignition OFF . The initialization procedure most be repeated 5 times to ensure any trapped air has been dislodged.
    3. Repeat the bleeding procedure, starting with Step 1.
    
    
11. Road test the vehicle, and make sure the brakes are operating properly.

If the ABS light comes on, you've got trouble codes stored. Get the codes read. This is usually caused by bad wheel speed sensor, rust on the tone ring or metallic crud on the sensor

How hard are you stepping on the brake pedal? What you are describing sounds like the ABS system activating. When you step on the pedal hard enough to engage the ABS the light will come on, in some cars it will blink. You will also feel the thumping/vibration in the pedal since the system works by repeatedly engaging and disengaging the brakes. If it is happening when you step lightly on the brakes then you may have a bad wheel speed sensor or possibly a bad or miss-adjusted brake switch.

have your ABS system scaned for codes(intermtent code) as for the car not goin out of park when applying the brake,there is a level or linkage that works as a safety,this linkage may need adjustment.the linkeage goes from thr pedal(brake) to the shifter,some of the work thru a selenoid that gets activated when the switch is on.

IF YOUR WHEELS ARE CLEARING THE GROUND A BRIEF SECOND THE ABS WILL ACTIVATE THE FEELING YOU HAVE IN THE BRAKE PEDAL IS NORMAL