Fuse pump relay isnt recieving any power

Does the fuel pump run? If you pull the relay, use jumper between terminals cavities 30 and 87, does fuse 45 go hot? As you can see terminal 30 is hot all the time and fuse protected. You can always check that fuse, hot all the time. Could be a wiring circuit problem and not a component. Let us know what you find

Do you have a multi-meter or test light?
There is a fuel pump fuse, in the fuse/relay distribution box, did you check that? That fuse and the fuel pump relay would have a "hot at all times" designation. Use the test light to see if the fuse has power at it. Next move to the FPR, pull it out and check for power. One of the relay terminals (it is #30 designation on the relay) would also be hot at all times (this terminal is coming directly from the fuse). Use the test light to check for that.
Look at the relay: on the side is a descriptor, or a diagram showing the relay terminals usage: #30 is the power feed, #87 is the feed on to the gas tank to the fuel pump. The other two terminals are the "coil side" of relay, #85 and #86, the coil side is what turns the relay on (from a signal from the pcm) and lets power pass to the pump.
If you have power at the relay terminal, you can take a short jumper wire and jump terminal 30 with 87. this will check the wiring circuit- it will send power on to the pump, and it should start working. If pump does not work, check for power on the gray wire at the gas tank connector. If no power, (and you still have the relay jumpered) then you have a bad wire from relay to the gas tank. If there is power on the gray pump wire, but still no pump when it is connected, then possibly the ground on your car for the pump is bad, or you maybe got a defective pump. Not likely, but it has happened before.
Now if you can jumper the relay and turn the pump on, we are down to the problem: apparently the coil side of your relay is not working-not turning the relay on, because of a missing signal from the pcm, or because the ground for the coil side is bad, or maybe just a bad relay.

Remove the rear wiper relay. The relay works just like a fuel pump relay or any other relay.
Here is example of your relay system and how to test it: Remove the relay and turn the ignition switch on and the rear wiper should not operate. If the motor works with the relay out then seek out a priest as the motor is haunted. To test the circuit do the following:
Bypass the relay with a piece of wire, (preferably fused). This means: Remove the relay and put the piece of wire in place of terminal 30 and 87 in the cavity where the relay lives. Even if you don't use a fuse all you are doing is giving the wiper motor the same voltage it would be getting if the relay was closed. All electrical diagnoses should come from the relay. It gives you the input and output for the accessory. The input is 12v hot on terminal 30. This usually this is constant hot wire from the main buss line on the fuse box. The 87 terminal goes to the fan itself so that the output of this terminal will be a grounded motor waiting for voltage. The 86 wire on this relay is normally fed through the fuse box via the appropriate fuse and gets voltage when the ignition is turned on. The 85 terminal on the relay is the field ground and energizes the relay. This wire comes from the switch. When the rear wiper switch is turned on it sends ground the relay terminal 85 which closes the points of the relay and allow power to travel from the 30 terminal to the 87 terminal. This gives power from the 30 terminal to the appliance at the other end of the 87 terminal. The grounded rear window motor receives this power, begins to spin and operate the wiper. By the way relays have a failure rate of about .015% so the problem probably isn't the relay itself.Joe

Bypass the relay with a piece of wire, (preferably fused). This means: Remove the relay and put the piece of wire in place of terminal 30 and 87 in the cavity where the relay lives. Even if you don't use a fuse all you are doing is giving the fan the same voltage it would be getting if the relay was closed. If the fan doesn't come on then leave the jumper wire in place and smack the fan motor with something like a screwdriver handle or small hammer with the voltage applied and see if that makes the fan come on. (Stuck fan- replace fan). All electrical diagnoses should come from the relay. It gives you the input and output for the fan. The input is 12v hot on terminal 30. This usually this is constant hot wire from the main buss line on the fuse box. The 87 terminal goes to the fan itself so that the output of this terminal will be a grounded motor waiting for voltage. The 86 wire on this relay is normally fed through the fuse box via the fuel pump fuse and gets voltage when the ignition is turned on. The 85 terminal on the relay is the field ground and energizes the relay. This wire comes from the switch which in this case is the computer or ECM. When the engine gets hot the coolant temperature swich sends a signal to the ECM to ground the relay terminal 85 which colses the points of the relay and allow power to travel from the 30 terminal to the 87 terminal. this gives power from the 30 terminal to the fan at the other end of the 87 terminal. the grounded fan receives this power, begins to spin and cool the engine. By the way relays have a failure rate of about .015% so the problem probably isn't the relay itself. Joe

There would be a fuel pump fuse, either under dash or under hood. Check that fuse, use the test light to see if fuse has power. If not, then it might be a fusible link or maxi-fuse that feeds the fuse panel. If fuse has power with key on, pull the relay, and use the test light and probe relay terminals, key off. One terminal should be hot at all times. If not, check for power loss between battery and relay terminal-possibly a maxi-fuse or fuse link.
If relay does have power to terminal, quickly check other terminals while someone turns key to on-for about 2 seconds, another terminal should show power-this would be signal from computer to turn the relay on to prime the lines and fuel rail. If you have that, plug relay in and cycle key. Does relay click? If yes, relay is working and problem may be at fuel pump connector. If relay is not working, but you have power to it, and the short signal from computer is there, then check the relay's coil side ground. Computer signals the coil side and the signal goes to ground from relay coil side.
Pull the relay and use a jumper wire from relay's hot terminal to fuel pump terminal-the wire to pump from the relay. If pump comes on, the problem is right there at the relay-either no signal from computer or the relay coil's ground is lost. If pump does not come on, again check connector at pump-that or the wire to pump[ has a problem.

You need to troubleshoot the relay and terminals. First try a different relay. Another relay in your car may be same part number relay as you pump relay, so check for that. Swap in a known good relay and try it.
If no help, look at relay. Is it 4 terminal or 5 terminal? If 4 terminal, easier to check. One terminal will be your power source, and hot at all times, so check for that-use your jumper wire (if no testlight or voltmeter), stick end in terminal and just touch metal, looking for spark indicating power. If no terminal has power, maybe only hot with key on, so turn key on and check for power. If no power, the feed from battery to fuse block is lost. If you have one power source, another terminal will be to the pump, the one you turned pump on with. Terminals 3 and 4 will be the signaling source to turn relay on through coil side of relay, and a terminal to ground, also on the coil side of relay. If you have constant power on one terminal, check for the signaling power. When the car is cranking over, the signal terminal should be hot-the signal will be coming from engine computer. So when cranking, relay socket should have two hot terminals. If you don't have two, you're right, relay is not getting correct power to the fuse block. BTW, don't use jumper wire to check for signaling source, use a testlight. Don't want to cause spark from computer wire.
What is EGI? Not familiar with that.

Well in a short term, you have a short circuit somewhere. Here is a detailed toturial for you. Please rate this post, thank you.

Automatic Shutdown (ASD) sense - PCM Input

The ASD sense circuit informs the PCM when the ASD relay energizes. A 12 volt signal at this input indicated to the PCM that the ASD has been activated. This input is used only to sense that the ASD relay is energized.
When energized, the ASD relay supplies battery voltage to the fuel injectors, ignition coils, and the heating element in each oxygen sensor. If the PCM does not receive 12 volts from this input after grounding the ASD reley, it sets a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC).

Automatic Shutdown Relay - PCM Output

The PCM operates the Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay and fuel pump relay through one ground path. The PCM operates them by switching the ground path for the solenoid side of the realys on and off. Both realys turn on and off at the same time.
The ASD relay connects battery voltage to the fuel injectors and ignition coil. The fuel pump relay connects battery voltage to the fuel pump.
A buss bar in the power distribution center (PDC) supplies voltage to the solenoid side and contact side of the relay. The ASD relay power circuit contains a 20 amp fuse between the buss bar in the PDC and teh relay. The fuse also protects the power circuit for the fuel pump relay and pump. The fuse is located in teh PDC.
The PCM controls the relay by switching the ground path for the solenoid side of the relay on and off. The PCM turns the ground path off when the ignition switch is in the Off position. When the ignition switch is in the On or Crank position, the PCM monitors the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor signals to determine engine speed and ignition timing (coil dwell). If the PCM does not receive the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position when the ignition switch is in teh Run position, it will de-energize teh ASD relay.
The ASD relay and fuel pump relay are located in the PDC near the battery. The inside top of the PCD cover has a label showing relay and fuse location.

ASD and Fuel Pump Relays

The following description of operation and tests apply only to the Automatic Shutdown (ASD) and fuel pump relays. The terminals on the bottom of each relay are numbered.

'------------------'
' __85 ___________'
' __87A '87 '30 ___' Sorry for the crudeness of this. This is supposed to
' __86 ___________' be the relay terminals!
'------------------'

OPERATION
- Terminal number 30 is connected to battery voltage. For both the ASD and fuel pump relays, terminal 30 is connected to battery voltage at all times.
- The PCM grounds the coil side of the relay through terminal number 85.
- Terminal number 86 supplies voltage to the coil side of the relay.
- When the PCM de-energizes the ASD and fuel pump relays, terminal number 87A connects to terminal 30. This is the Off position. In the off position, voltage is not supplied to the rest of the circuit. Terminal 87A is the center terminal on the relay.
- When the PCM energizes the ASD and fuel pump relays, terminal 87 connects to terminal 30. This is the On position. Terminal 87 supplies voltage to the rest of the curcuit.

TESTING
The following procedure applies to the ASD and fuel pump relays.
(1) Remove relay from connector before testing.
(2) With the relay removed from the vehicle, use an ohmmeter to check the resistance between terminals 85 and 86. The resistance shoud be 75±5 ohms.
(3) Connect the ohmmeter between terminals 30 and 87A. The ohmmeter should show continuity between terminals 30 and 87A.
(4) Connect the ohmmeter between between terminals 87 and 30. The ohmmeter should not show continuity at this time.
(5) Connect one end of a jumper wire (16 guage or smaller) to relay terminal 85. Connect the other end of the jumper wire to the ground side of a 12 volt power source.
(6) Connect on end of another jumper wire (16 guage or smaller) to the power side of the 12 volt power source. Do not attach the other end of the jumper wire to the relay at this time.

WARNING: DO NOT ALLOW OHMMETER TO CONTACT TERMINALS 85 OR 86 DURING THIS TEST.

(7) Attach the other end of the jumper wire to relay terminal 86. This activates the relay. The ohmmeter should now show continuity between relay terminals 87 and 30. The ohmmeter should not show continuity between relay terminals 87A and 30.
(8) Disconnect jumper wires.
(9) Replace the relay if it did not pass the continuity and resistance tests. If the relay passed the tests, is operates properly. Check the remainder of the ASD and fuel pump curcuits.

__________________________________________________ _______________

I know you said you replaced the relay, and this is a test procedure for the relay, but I have bought bad parts in the past. The description before the test procedure at least gives you an idea of what components are wired through and controlled by the relay. One of those may be faulty. Email me if you want or need wiring diagrams and I should be able to scan them and email them to you.

I hope this helps.

Please rate this post, thank you

Check the (automatic shutdown relay) in the power distribution center for power when the key is in the on position. It controls the power to the coil,fuel pump,injectors,oxygen sensor. To check the relay, remove it from the panel. check the location of #30 corresponding to location of pin on relay. using a test light check to see if you have power on panel. Should have voltage, then check #86 on panel with the key on. It should have power. If no power then check for a blown fuse. Connect an ohm meter to the relay on terminal 86 and 85 and check the resistance. there should be 75 ohms resistance. Then check for continuity between terminals 30 and 87. There should be no continuity. Using jumper wires connect battery voltage to terminal 86 and ground terminal 85 to verify that there is continuity between terminals 87 and 30. If there isn't, replace the relay. Hope this will help you.

sounds like your clockspring or a fuse test for power going into the clockspring please rate -jeff