AIR CONDITIONING AND CENTRAL LOCKING

For the A/C, buy a kit from any autoparts store....freon (actually
R34A, not freon) and a hose with a gauge. Follow the instructions
CAREFULLY.



Drivers door, if you can't open it manually from inside and out, isn't eletrical. it's a mechanical problem.





For the A/C, buy a kit from any autoparts store....freon (actually R34A, not freon) and a hose with a gauge. Follow the instructions CAREFULLY.

Drivers door, if you can't open it manually from inside and out, isn't eletrical. it's a mechanical problem.

It is possible that when freeze plug blew vehicle overheated and caused high pressure in the a/c system resulting in loss of refrigerant charge



OR

or it could be because of feron

Freon or 134a becomes cold while changing from a liquid to a gas, it is compressed to force it into a liquid state where it gives off heat then as it changes again the cold is used to cool the cabin and the heat is expelled through the evaporator .



OR

if its winter first check coolant lenvel and check coolant system for leaks. then check thermostat



OR

You have a broken temp blend door in your heater/AC case. You will need a new heater case, because the door is inside the case and is not available separately. You had better replace the blend door actuator as well, because that is what I have found is causing the door to break to bgin with. The stops wear out in the actuator so that it begins advancing too far in one direction or the other and it breaks the doors.

Allen's Alternate Repair -- zero cost. Involves duct tape! (that's a plus for many of us).

I was facing that and my car isn't worth the $750 est I got from the Ford dealer.

I know there is an article on replacing the door through the firewall, but I didn't know how to take of the 'evaporator.' If you go that way the part is $11.00 from NAPA but it does not look easy.

The cheap way:
1) Drop the glovebox (push rubber stops inward). Let it hang down -- no need to remove it.
2) Cut a flap in the plastic housing. Reach in and pull the door shut. Attach a piece of duct tape to keep the door shut.
Duct tape your incision. I used a dremel tool -- wheel cutter normally used for metal. The plastic isn't much thicker (where you cut) than a plastic milk jug and there is nothing behind it. Drill and use a saw.

The flap is about 4" wide by 5-6" high, if I remember (from yesterday!). It closes up really well, the plastic has a good memory, and may not even need the duct tape.

Where to cut: You'll see the motor that controls the flap, it's wide and flat. The hole int the flapper door that the shaft goes in breaks or wears out. There is a vertical reinforcing ridge. Cut vertically at the left of that, close as you can. Cut across as high up as you can, then down as far left as you can. Do not cut the bottom. Push in and pull out with a hook made from a coat hanger. Bend flap down. Reach in, the door is far in there, pull it shut (to the left) for heat. Push the other way for cold. The hinge is closest to you with the door edge farthest away. It is plastic has foam and the edge even has a nice 1/2 wide ridge at 90 degrees that is easy to grasp. It pulls easy because it is disconnected from the motor (hence your problem).

I suppose you could drill a hole and attach a stiff wire if you want easier control. I didn't bother. When it gets to summer, I'll just reach in and push it the other way.

Oh, and unplug the motor in case a little friction is left to mess up your work. I also cut the fastener for the wire loom that runs near the bottom of the cuts so I wouldn't cut it. The wires are pretty secure even without the fastener It is possible that when freeze plug blew vehicle overheated and caused high pressure in the a/c system resulting in loss of refrigerant charge

OR
or it could be because of feron
Freon or 134a becomes cold while changing from a liquid to a gas, it is compressed to force it into a liquid state where it gives off heat then as it changes again the cold is used to cool the cabin and the heat is expelled through the evaporator .

OR
if its winter first check coolant lenvel and check coolant system for leaks. then check thermostat

OR
You have a broken temp blend door in your heater/AC case. You will need a new heater case, because the door is inside the case and is not available separately. You had better replace the blend door actuator as well, because that is what I have found is causing the door to break to bgin with. The stops wear out in the actuator so that it begins advancing too far in one direction or the other and it breaks the doors.

Allen's Alternate Repair -- zero cost. Involves duct tape! (that's a plus for many of us).

I was facing that and my car isn't worth the $750 est I got from the Ford dealer.

I know there is an article on replacing the door through the firewall, but I didn't know how to take of the 'evaporator.' If you go that way the part is $11.00 from NAPA but it does not look easy.

The cheap way:
1) Drop the glovebox (push rubber stops inward). Let it hang down -- no need to remove it.
2) Cut a flap in the plastic housing. Reach in and pull the door shut. Attach a piece of duct tape to keep the door shut.
Duct tape your incision. I used a dremel tool -- wheel cutter normally used for metal. The plastic isn't much thicker (where you cut) than a plastic milk jug and there is nothing behind it. Drill and use a saw.

The flap is about 4" wide by 5-6" high, if I remember (from yesterday!). It closes up really well, the plastic has a good memory, and may not even need the duct tape.

Where to cut: You'll see the motor that controls the flap, it's wide and flat. The hole int the flapper door that the shaft goes in breaks or wears out. There is a vertical reinforcing ridge. Cut vertically at the left of that, close as you can. Cut across as high up as you can, then down as far left as you can. Do not cut the bottom. Push in and pull out with a hook made from a coat hanger. Bend flap down. Reach in, the door is far in there, pull it shut (to the left) for heat. Push the other way for cold. The hinge is closest to you with the door edge farthest away. It is plastic has foam and the edge even has a nice 1/2 wide ridge at 90 degrees that is easy to grasp. It pulls easy because it is disconnected from the motor (hence your problem).

I suppose you could drill a hole and attach a stiff wire if you want easier control. I didn't bother. When it gets to summer, I'll just reach in and push it the other way.

Oh, and unplug the motor in case a little friction is left to mess up your work. I also cut the fastener for the wire loom that runs near the bottom of the cuts so I wouldn't cut it. The wires are pretty secure even without the fastener